Jamez

how much HP does it have?

+1, cant see anything except for the wheels

e34 is superior to the others

the all new "Smart Car Ti"

good luck

HB

how much would it cost to redrill them to 5x120?

brakes are known to suddenly fail, as well as fuel pumps. Well anything could go wrong really.

I've heard of making a car wide, but I think thats a bit over the top.

its a pusher electric fan, as in infront of the radiator? Started it up to do the Tee-Kay Test, It didn't overheat at all, Sat on 80 after running for 20 mins, then did the test, Didn't turn yellow at all after 5min, so I did the test on the exhaust to make sure its correct and it went yellow straight away. That would suggest there are no leaks between the water and combustion chambers and with it not burning oil, that rules out that also. Also.. There is also no water in oil or oil in water. The water pump and thermostat are also fine It does not overheat while on idle It only overheats after ~7-9 min of racing. It can only be that something is wrong with the fuel, or the cooling system isn't doing its job.

I want to do a compression test on the E30 with the S50 motor but my current tester doesn't have a small enough thread to match that of the spark plug hole (the hole is slightly smaller than an e30 plug) Have tried repco and supercheap and both said that nothing existed in the size I need. the plug hole fits a NGK PKR7A plug and the engine is a S50B32

woops, meant to type Z3 Finally got round to taking the logged data off the ECU from the Saturday at Hampton Downs, most race's it was only revved up to ~6300 and the temp did as follows In the first Race it started at ~80 degrees and finished on ~82 In the 2nd Race it started at ~82 degrees and finished on ~86 In the 3rd Race it started at ~85 degrees and finished on ~90 In the last Race it started at ~89 degrees and finished on ~95 So each race it was getting hotter and hotter.....I should have really checked this a few weeks ago.

I cant see it being a problem with the pump as the silver Z4 M coupe in the open class uses an identical setup and rev range but has no problems.

used to play a lot of CS:S before I got into bimmers

haha, I have already asked the question if they want to part with the RS's, as they look to be 8", so would save me widening my current set. look's to be a good buy, its a shame its in nelson.

yeah, while I was pulling the water pump that did occur to me. I have since found the water pump and thermostat are in perfect condition..............which means it is somthing else I am going to do a compression test, then if nothing odd comes up its off to Gavin I will also do an oil change as the oil is black as, which might account for part of the overheating.

Talked to Ernst, he seemed really confused but suggested it might be leaning out in the higher revs. am going to take the waterpump out now to have a look and do a compression test, if no problem is found i'm going to go see Gavin and get it run up on the dyno to see if anything obvious comes up. Just thinking back, when we first went round Hampton Downs we had the same problem, but this was fixed with a swirl pot, maybe it is fuel related?

cheers for the ideas, fuel seems to be normal but could the altitude of Taupo affect this? as it doesn't have a AFM or MAF to measure how much air is getting in, everything was pre set from the dyno tune Will have a look at the radiators today and see what the air flow is like. We don't have a oil Temp sensor but Oil Pressure, when hot the car's oil pressure sits at 20 on idle then 70-90 when being revved. Fan should be ok as once your over 100km/h the amount of air passing through from going fast is a lot more than a fan can do. Car is in Takapuna if anyone wants to come have a looksee

So... we got a problem and its not due to the new air intake At its first meeting we noticed that when the car was fully rev'd to 7900 it would creep up to 90 degrees, then when short shifted at 7000 the problem would go away. At taupo on Saturday this got worse, short shift would sit at 80 then revving it out would goto 100 degrees on Sunday no matter what, after 4-6 laps (10min of racing) it overheats(instantly to 120), no matter what you do. Then Boils Any suggestions? we are running the standard airbox at the moment, used the other setup just for the friday testday, sh*t it sounded good over 6000, almost like the DTM e30 M3's Have not taken it apart yet, but various people at the track suggested Water pump or the headgasket........

they were asking 18k for the whole car.

Took the air-box off to fix the oil psi sender (faulty sender unit), then decided to leave it off, going to put a pipe from the headlight through, just to circulate some cold air, really hums now and car sounds a lot less tinny. note - oil pot is being installed, otherwise oil goes everywhere at high rpm's.

HB

HB

HB

HB