kiwi328i

Those are pretty rare I reckon. They are on the heavy side though and deals on new alloys are so attractive these days, unless you are serious about the 'period' look it sometimes pays to go with new. Pluses though are that they are possibly the easiest OEM alloys to clean, are 'period', OEM hopefully means well made and you could squeeze 265's on the rear if you wanted to. Minuses are that they are heavy, can look dated and have no dish (if that is even what you want). If you had a car to put them on, do it, otherwise I am sure someone here would take them off ya easy.

Those recommendations seem reasonable. Sidewall height shouldnt matter in regards to the stretching issue, its just a bugger to mount, but whether you have 235/40 or 235/50 on a given rim size shouldnt figure. It is just taking into account tyre width to rim width. I cant imagine a manufacturers recommendation being too far off these figures, but then you would only need one good example by a reputable manufacturer to have the LTNZ scratching their heads again. Then you have the certed guys...

Best dish for the money I reckon. Maybe the offsets are different enough for a difference in feeling behind the wheel, esp if they weigh approx the same? Compacts at the best of time look a bit high from the rear, because tbh the ride height is hardly at 4wd height, and it looks like it still needs to come down a tad, but some camber will help too. Will look the tits once those jobs are done. You cant complain for the money.

Bugger, looks like Black Motorsport headlinings are not impervious to sagging. I would still recommend one though, much better material and a vastly better look especially if you change all of the fittings over. Have a look at a black motorsport headliner in someone elses motorsport. Buying one secondhand with fittings is probably cheaper than getting your original fixed. Good luck in anycase. Tell us how it works out for you.

Just lowered mine tonight, bought secondhand kings & BMW struts from Ray(unsure of app but out of a 325i apparently, I am sure the piston rod was narrower than my 328i std maybe not. The bumpstops and dustcover was in better nick so hopefully or possibly less mileage. In anycase, was better than what I had before, got an alignment and its perfect for what I wanted, which was just a smidgen less gap and just get a trolley jack underneath the front rubber platforms with a bit of shoving. No difference in ride comfort, if anything its better, seems quieter. I left the rear alone. Wheels/tyres - 17x8 style 42's/ 245/40R 225/45F Springs/shocks - Kings low KBFL-20/BMW unsure, smaller dia piston rod than std? Look- perfect for what I wanted to achieve, 15-20mm lower Chur. Now I dont have to keep looking at the front and think, sh*t I which it was just a little little bit lower, nah, maybe later...everytime I look at my vehicle...on with the next!

Try Brent or Ray and see if they have a secondhand motorsport headliner in stock. Much better, it is black but better still it is made from better material, and I have never seen a MS one sag.

If there was difference it was purely psychological. It seemed like there may have been a small neglible difference, but nah, it got worse over the next few months and then I decided to pull it apart of which I have put down the details on the official jatco thread. The best ways for me would be in this order 1, do a manual conversion 2, sell the car 3, live with it 4, rebuild the trans in the knowledge it will probably not be your first I did 4...time well tell. I hate to know what a service cost on these, but I would still pay it if I had to do mine again, esp over winter, its a crap job if you dont have shelter in this weather.

I have the same issue with my car 1995 328i coupe, amazing, I might just unplug it all and clean the connections and bung it back in again. I havent bothered with it as it doesnt affect the running of the car, but yeah its weird.

Yes it is, its a barstard of a job. The recessed thingmebob that you need to remove to get a tube thingy up there fills it till the fluid spills over. Yes, that is the correct level, when it spills over you, your tools and your driveway. Brilliant design aye! If I was to do it again (done it twice, once to try and reduce the jerk and secondly when I rebuilt it) and all I was doing was replacing the fluid I would pay someone. Unless of course you have the time, a hoist, a proper oil filler whatsit and so forth. I had rain, two jacks, a cold hard concrete driveway, a few concrete blocks and dogged determination. You also need someone to help you (you should anyway) put the car through the gears when you are filling it, yeah its not the easiest job, its easily the crappiest auto fill job I have ever done on any car I have ever owned.

Dude, these cars are 10-15 years old. M-Spec suspension or not, if its on the original shocks even if its done under 100k, is probably not very bmwish now. The differences between M-Spec suspension and std is sweet f/a in day to day driving and since our household has both M-Sport and non M-Sport in our driveway, the ride height difference is neglible as far as I can tell. Dont let the k's rule your head either as these dashes are replaced pretty easily, carjam may give you some piece of mind, but honestly get a car that has been serviced to death. Get a 328i if you really need to get an E36 in that price bracket. Definately try to get the M-Sport kit if you can but dont think it is going to be any faster or lower for that matter regardless of what the websites say, but thats just my opinion. I like the coupes personally, but the 4 doors are definately more practical when it comes to passengers. I have done a load of maintenance on mine, so buy one that has had a heap of love, care and pingers thrown at it. Oh yes I couldnt NOT have full leather and heated seats, especially on these winter mornings. Dont worry about rims and tyres cause you WILL change them regardless of what you get. Good luck bro

Jesus Christ that was quick Ray, I will give you a bell maybe over the weekend, cheers.

Hi Guys, Mine is wasted, the rubber surrounding the valves are totally destroyed, I would like to know if anyone has a secondhand one hangin around as they are a few hundy new. I am in Auckland out west. Or secondly, anyone try to repair the valves themselves? Reply or pm if you can help out cheers

I changed my atf in the hope it would prolong the life left in it, but nope it did not. Of course you or anyone could argue that it wouldnt hurt, sure, but the jatco jerk in general isnt because the atf is getting a bit useless. If you didnt have the jerk already it may, but considering you do have the jerk, I am afraid it will do piss all really.

Mine used to do that. I would drive over a cats eye and it would do this weird sidestep action, hard to describe but I knew something was up, and it only did it on one side. There was no funny noises or anything. It turned out tht the previous owner had replaced the rear wheel bearing and had not done it up properly. Maybe check that?

Hey, If you have a look at the diy's on the net, you will see that if/when you buy new ones, you get a template, and this ensures (to a point) that you are drilling holes in roughly the right place. I am about to do mine, but as I have secoundhand ones, I will have to do what I can to get them to line up as nice as I can do it. Just take ya time I supposse. I will probably put a dab of white silicon on all of the male tabs then get me bro to help me line it up as nicely as possible and touch the original sill, it will then leave a little bit of white silicon and there you have some indicators to drill your holes with. Thats what I will probably do anyway.

FBH? Sorry Glenn dont ring a bell, but I did buy some stuff, have a gander at my post on this very thread and you may find the info you are looking for? We use all manner of tools to get the job done, so who knows. What I did use from my brother is his knowledge on cars and that he has in spades, thankfully free. The jatco jerk is no more and thats all that matters to me. Hopefully someone may find my resolution to the jatco jerk useful in some way. Personally, I would advise most people to go straight to a garage. Its not for the amateur thats for sure.

Auckland is a big place bro, Vittles out west did Mum's car and it looks factory I would recommend them based on what they did with that car.

Me too, glad its back pronto, it probably only matters when you really need something from this site, which for some is plenty all of the time.

I am trying to do everything secondhand for now, cause I like to restore or reuse old stuff anyhow but sh*t that is cheap, if I dont have any joy I will let you know for sure. Is the grill you speak of, the grill that I am after the slat type? and the inserts are the 4 smallish black textured moulded plastic bodymould strips? Thats cheap. I am working on mine at the mo, I have it down at the plastic repairers, bought a secondhand m-sport bumper and it needs a sh*t load of work. The strips are covered in layers of paint, but I might be able to strip them without killing the textured pattern...I hope. The bumper has no braking vents or those nifty rivets to attach it to the 'bar' either, so can you help there? oh yeah it doesnt have one of the side attachments that are factory glued on I think the right hand side, can I use my old one or is it m-sport bumper specific. Here is an image of the side bracket.

Hi guys, I knew I should have bought it off trademe a while ago, but has anyone got a decent secondhand one of these hanging around? You know the part below the license plate, great whopping hole that usually has either mesh or slats. PM me if you need to otherwise all comments welcome. It should look like this one. Cheers Lionel

Any BMW workshop with the appropriate scanner should be able to do this. I fixed the mechanical problems that were causing the jerk, so the clearing of the adaptions are just complimentary I believe.

Dude, I put in some 6.5" panasonics. Not a fan of panasonics but I heard them and they are fine, better still they are shallow as and not only that they screw up almost to the mm, all you need to do is a bit of plastic removal on the inside of the kicks, you cant see any difference on the outside, its just to clear the speakers as they are the next size up. its also cool to know you have 6.5's too. They sound fine, I used the standard wiring so its an inexpensive upgrade, there are not many speakers you can put in there due to the shallowness dude, cant remember the part numbers but they are your std panasonic 6.5, about 60bucks...and got to be better than stock bro. I was going to put in powerplants, but I would have to get the grinder out big time and since I run a sub its not worth it...well not to me anyway, I still got twin tweeters in the doors and rear 6.5" reactors, so what they hey.

Agreed, thats why if it dont sell I aint going to worry too much, its probably worth keeping in the long term as I will always have bimmers now I think. I was hoping someone would offer me a motorsport front bumper or the like but hey no fuss.

If I was to have a stab I would say right rear wheel bearing. How were they checked? Visually its hard, because clearances are difficult to assess and then there is the matter of loadings. It might look fine without load but be useless under it. Well thats my guess. Second stab would be driveshaft or the rubber do dangy guibo thingamajiggy. The torque on my right rear wheel bearing is approximately one angry Maori jumping on a modified power bar nm. Plenty you would think but I have done it twice since and now its perfect. God only knows what factory is, but you cant do it with ya arms thats for sure! lol.

Right, I took my Jatco out, fairly straightforward as far as autos go. All up me brothers driveway...secure! All we did was check and clean, pulled out the fluid which was pretty burned and I had all ready replaced a year ago so something wasnt quite right, pulled out all the clutch packs and one was a little too loose and on closer inspection the friction plates in that one were pretty worn, I replaced them, blew everything out with the air gun, cleaned the magnet, I didnt even replace the filter, gasket or plug. Threw it all back together and wallah...it still had a bit of a jerk..&^*&%^%$^%er!!! So I called Gavin up at Hi velocity and apparently I need to 'clear the adaptions' (how the hell would I know), anyway did that and wallah...no more jatco jerk, its only been a week, but it works well now, it may play up later but it is very driveable and apart from labour cost me 90 odd for auto trans fluid and 40 bucks for the friction plates and plenty of thanks to my bro (ex super mechanic) lots of elbow grease, I am back to being a proud 328i owner, who doesnt have to nanny the bloody thing anymore. So thats as rangi as you would want to get I reckon, other than that I wouldnt have bothered with secondhand or a full rebuild as the cost effectiveness just isnt there in these cars (jatco equipped).my 2c.