my_e36

Don't auto usually worth a bit more than the manual?

Sounds like Trans Fluid change is due. Normal service don't usually touch the transmission.

me neither, except it's the cheapest Merc you can buy brand new.The drive is crap, engine is rather rough and noisy (A160 that I test driven) Z4 Coupe, I heard that there is no right hand drive version planned just yet.

Nice ride, some white indicators would be awesome

Does it work when near the centre mirror (that's where the sensor is)?if yes, battery if no, may need re-sync the key to the car 1. Lock and unlock the car with key from driver side door (within 5 sec) 2. Get in the car, close the door, turn key to ACC (position 1) then off 3. take the key out, point to the centre mirror 4. press and hold the lock (middle one) and press unlock 3 times while you hold that in. 5. if success, the door will lock and unlock itself to confirm if not success, there's another way to do it at the dealers Last time they did that for free, only take them 30 seconds. ACS button actually represent "ACS+T", the "T" is traction control and ACS I think is more preventing understeer. DSC (in e46 and after) do more to prevent oversteer/slide. Don't quote me on this though, someone correct me if I am wrong.

pre-95 without EWS (immobiliser), you can do it anywherepost-95 with EWS, BMW dealer. As the key need to be coded. approx $150 for remote, approx $95 for non-remote they need to be paid up-front and Couriered from Germany should take 2 weeks.

Depends if your car has CD stacker pre-wire. If your car is NZ new, you can verify that with a dealer. If there is, it would just be purchasing a factory stacker and stick it into the boot. OR one of those conversion boxes for some aftermarket (like SONY or Alpine) stacker to go with the factory unit. Of course, for the price of the factory stacker + install, you can almost get a pretty decent aftermarket headunit plus stacker install.

Ferodo DS2500 maybe?

Nice lights, it goes well with your car overall. Not a big fans of chrome rims myself but it look nice with your car too. as other has said, colour code the bottom bits will be good.

I've never seen genuine panel/body trim parts made in fibreglass, and the fact that he can't spell properly suggests that they might be fake. Go to a stealership for a quote on what you want anyway, you might be surprised as sometimes they are unbelievelibly cheap. What about that place in Manukau? Part of the Strong xx branding but deals with Euro cars. (can't think properly past mid-night )

Try not to use those generic green coolants. BMW coolant should be blue in colour and they are quite reasonable in price. Get some dis-stilled water to fill the system instead of tap water as well. Check radiator neck (top hose, passenger side) for crack and thermostat as they are common faults. Remember to remove the bleed screw (next to coolant filler cap) to prevent airlock.

By the way, those prices looks pretty good. Should try $60 for a genuine air-filter at Honda!

It's actually 6.5 litre. all 6-cyc e36 takes 6.5 litre most 4-cyc e36 takes 5 litre

These guys are ok as well. Free shipping and prices are ok. They got those silver tip, orange lights too. So it doesn't have the fried egg effect. http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk

10k? You don't have to start with that much, depends on what you want to get for yourself. Around 3 grand is a good start with base models like Nikon D50/70s and Canon 350D, 2 lens (1 wide-zoom around 18-70 and 1 tele-zoom like 70-300) plus an external flash (Nikon SB600 or or Canon 550EX) I think that would cover most amatuer/hobbist type and some semi-pro photographer. That budget only cover lens with relatively small aperature (f4-5.6 and the likes), if you want something decent like f2-2.8, you need another 1-2 grand on top for the lenses.

Wondering which one it quoted, 400 or 507?

I don't really want to touch the airbag unless I absolutely have to, I heard some said as long as you got a tilt wheel, you'll be able to get the cluster out. I have yet to try that, thanks for the offer, I'll sing out if I need help taking the air bag out.

Main thing with Singapore import is electrical, rubber seals, leather seats. It's very hot and very humid over there. Under-cover parking parking there is pretty much a luxury, hence there's a lot of sun damage to Singapore cars. It's a cultural thing that they put a lot of gadgets into their car, hence the high failure rate associated with it due to the heat. It's quite often to see 318i with TV, CD-changer, full leather, sun-roof and electric seats. (these are almost un-heard of with NZ-new cars.) Finally, paint and seals (esp sunroof seals) condition as well. Some of them are pretty neglected.

The instructment cluster has a blown bulb in it, do I have the take the steering wheel off before I can take the cluster out to replace the bulb? If there's an driver air-bag, is there anything I should know before I start removing stuff?

I am not sure about e30, I had my e36 fuel filter done by BMWorkShop for around $120, parts, labour and GST included

Alpine, no questions about it.I got mine from Paul Money as well, they are probably the best deals in Auckland for NZ warranty stuff.

By isolating I believe you want to disable it?2 methods.... first is to take it out second method... I believe it's possible using MoDic or GT1 dealer computers but they won't do it unless you have a genuine reason to convince them. What's your excuse? 4 baby seats in the car?? erm.. just wondering, isn't there a fuse for the air-bags?

I remember reading something elsewhere about it stores servicing information on late model keys (post-2000). Your first pix is the post-95 keys which is just a key with immobiliser chip inside. Almost 3-grand NZ for a key reader? Bit of a rip-off don't you think? Probably can buy a code-read or OBD-II computer for that much. I am sure those can tell more that what's on the key!

I believe fog-light rules are actually in the road code, they are just tightening the enforcements. Late model Commodore have really bad fog/driving light which aims too high. I would love to see all WOF station have a beam setter that calibrated and operators that knows how to use them properly.

Mine's 98 e36 323i Coupe, I bought mine off these people on Trademe... Bridgestone ER30 (BMW's OEM tyre back in the days) ER30 on Trademe I was looking for mostly quietness, a bit of handling (won't slide all over the place) My factory was 225/50/16, but these 205/55/16 is the same size as far as the speedo goes. Steering will be little bit lighter but the limit is more "feelable". Hope this helps.... also can read reviews on "tirerack.com", it's US-based, but should give you some ideas as it got some extensive spec list and able to compare between tyres.