_Matt_

i could pop in today and book...what where the numbers?

i would recommend a steady income before INVESTING in a bmw good luck

wait till you fellas see my engine! Its ticks and everything!

I have repaired the rust on my boot and need to mount the spoiler again. what do you recommended to make a seal around the edge of the spoiler? it looks as tough the previous sealant was some sort of double sided rubber tape. Thanks

love cars that have pink playboy bunny sh*t stuck everywhere...bloody vaginas haha.

according to car jam it hasn't moved for 4 years haha. Be careful.

Thanks Nathan, my wax and grease remover worked a treat.

pretty sure its this stuff.... it's definitely a soft rubber but i don't have a knife to cut the excess off...ill be repairing each hole anyway as they are all rusty.

na mate, this aint your everyday silicone

Another RTV situation. Any suggestions on how to get that crap off? how much did they bloody need grrr? and yea that bolt has rusted through so ill need to replace that.

its on like Vince Vaughn

He is lying! I got to ride in the big boy kart when i was 14!!! Which meant i was capable of passing you on the inside, but of course Mr competitive got all angry and decided to clip my left rear tyre sending me into the wall. IT'S ON d*ck!

I'm in, unless Mark doesn't want me cramping his style

no one should ever ask for details over email. Just don't do it aye

de-badge, it's what the cool kids do.

heya mate

I have heard in some threads of dumb things previous owners have done to your cars and thought it would be amusing to share them. I just spent about 15mins prying the front emblem off my bonnet cos some muppet had siliconed a fake one on. Another is not so much what they did do but didn't. All the bloody rust that fills my boot is obviously due to previous owners not even caring that their boot was nice and damp and couldn't be bothered lifting up the carpet to investigate. Now there are a lot of repairs to be done. I know you guys have some good ones

If there are already threads about this please point me to them and ill delete this one otherwise maybe we could build some info up and make it a sticky. Basically i want an alarm. A lot of you have seen my E28, and although it's not worth much it looks like it is to most people. I get "is that an M5?" all the time. I could always go to AS&S and get a mongoose 5 star but they have been around for as long as i can remember so surely the thieves have figured that one out by now? lol. What systems do you guys recommend and why? also, my wheels are the most expensive part of my car. So a tilt sensor would be nice? budget is probably $500ish. Thanks in Advance.

This especially pisses me off when it's some idiot boy racer trying to protect his worthless car and bogged to sh*t doors....cocks tbh

OMG! that is just as awesome! haha

look at how I've folded the tape...this means half wont stick to the body and when you spray, a slight amount of paint will get underneath creating a soft gradual edge.

tell me 1st if you are pulling E-Sarcasm

cheers, took most of the arvo correcting my terrible grammar I also hope everyone gets my stupid masking tape joke haha.

as requested: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=31364

I only did this myself as it was in a relatively concealed area. However, if done right it can look pretty bloody good. Problem: (was worse than it looks) My aim was to give very direct and short instructions on how to fix this (I may have failed) Step One – gather what you need - Something to stop you from breathing in the various particles that will be floating around (I used a cheap painters mask, your wife’s turtle neck could also suffice) - Something to grind (I used a power drill and grinding disc) - Something to coarsely sand with (I used that steel brush on the power drill) - Something to clean away dirt during each process (I used wax and grease remover from spray store) - Something to fill (I used both fiber re-enforced filler and lightweight filler (from Super Cheap/Repco) - Something to sand down the filler and paint (I used various grades of paper, 80, 180, 600, 1500) - Something to Mask (I used scotch tape and news paper, the occasional farmers brochure snuck in there too, you know the ones with the hot lingerie models? Yea those ones mmmmm) - Some spray primer (spray store will happily mix you some) - Some spray paint (I recommend using the original colour of your car) - Something to detail with (I used cutting compound, general polish, and wax) - Have a few old towels and some microfiber cloths handy. Step Two – Grind, Grind, Grind, it’s the most enjoyable part! - Use the grinding disc to grind ALL the rust out (remember, rust is not just orange, all the darker coloured spots you will expose is all rust, you need to get down to bare clean steel, even if it means making holes through the body. - Use the steel brush to clean up all the steel (I switched between both this and the grinding disc to help me see if I had removed all the rust) Step Three – Fill - If you have made holes in your body work mix up some Fiber Re-enforced filler and apply it behind the body work (press it in so it nicely fills the holes) - If needed, sand back the filler that should have come through the holes. - Clean the area with a towel and some of the wax and grease remover - Mix up the Lightweight Filler and apply on the repair area generously (remember, it’s a hell of a lot easier to apply to much and sand back then in is to not apply enough and be left with little places that don’t fill the shape of the body correctly) - Once set, sand back. Start off with 80 grade paper. I’m sure you can decide when to move to 180 and then to 600. (be careful not to get to deep with the 80 grade, as you could accidentally remove filler that was covering very small marks left from the grinding. - To really get the filler smooth, soak the 600 in water for an hour or so and wet sand. Step Four – Prime - Here are some pictures of how to mask. It helps using the serious face during this process. This method shown gives a soft edge to the paint so long as you don’t spray directly at it. (Always mask a smaller area for priming than what you will for the top coat) My masked area for top coat: (that subtle line you see is my primer mask) - Clean the surface with the wax and grease remover - Once you’ve applied 2 or 3 coats, wet sand with 600 and clean once again. Step Five – Top Coat - Find logical edges on the body that could potentially be used to aid blending (my choice was obviously behind the bumper and that lower indent on the fender. Mask a generous area making sure you will not create hard lines when you have sprayed, hard masking will just create a film like edge that will flake off. - Apply the paint a good 30-40cm away from the area in continuous horizontal streaks (don’t apply so much that it starts sagging) - When you are happy with the coverage let it dry and remove the tape. (Slowly) Step Six – Finishing Off What you should have now is a nice matte finish that will be quite rough if you run your hand over it. - Soak the 1500 paper in water for good hour and start sanding the area in one direction (do not apply a lot of pressure) - The aim is to do this until the whole area is smooth and you cant see any of the spray texture. (you will see it getting quite dull but don’t worry that’s normal, this is also a good reason why you want to apply a generous amount of top coat) - Once you are satisfied with the sanding job. Put some cutting compound on a dry microfiber cloth and start rubbing. You will see it beginning to shine. - Apply polish and buff - Apply wax and buff DONE! Time for a few beers and a drive (preferably not in that order).