dirtydoogle

Most suppliers send m50 bolts, which are shorted than m52 requires

The threads must be perfectly clean and use ARP fastener lubricant. 

Yeah the air filter is a bit annoying. 

The fuel filter is a whole lot easier than the internet makes out though, if you have slim hands. Definitely worth doing too because nobody replaces them 

The alarm will be the bonnet sensor, unplug it. 

I bought a not bmw for my dear missus last night 

It's like a cross between an e39 540 and a nice w211 

Except much better and more gadgets. 

And more importantly more comfortable and I shouldn't have to work on it ?

The door carrier assembly is pretty easy to do, I've done a few. One on my one. Enjoy!

Mine is manual so nonissue with boxes breaking haha it is awesome, pulls like a Vegan on a lettuce! Definitely faster than my 338 manual was and the torque is huuuuge 

The 6 speed zf auto is a great box, just get it serviced 

Ours have always smelled on start up.

My current one has no cats and a tune and makes quite a bit of turbo noise, it absolutely stinks when its idling too

Yeah being down that way I guess it will be having some smokey starts

the only consistent issue I have seen on the ones we have run is front outer cv boots fail like any other car. That's about all that has been done on them in 400,000km combined apart from regular maintenance (and 4 gearboxes in the PFL auto.. )

Have run three m57 x5s for work and personal, all three ran fairly cool on the open road. All three had the smoke on first start up, nothing to worry about, likely failing glow plugs but I've never had a starting issue with all 6 dead 

The diesel small is most likely a cracked manifold 

The aux heater only works under 5 degrees ambient 

Do the PCV/CCV in the rocker cover, its extremely important on these 

Do the fuel filter every 50km it's easy enough and cheap  

1/3 to 1/2 on the gauge is 70-80 degrees, allnthree I've used run that low unless under load, my tuned one runs just under 70 on the open road 

Dynavin n6 or newer would work, but they are spendy 

Quite a lot of the android units are very good, but you definitely need to research them

Mine has a chinese pile of junk running on that real scungy windows system from back in the day and it is garbage 

You can see the hp on that graph is calculated engine hp, still a good gain over a stock one though 

Will be interesting to see how they fare with higher hp. You can make some rather fruity hp on a 2JZ with some money spent on ARP bits. But you can make similar HP on an n54 too without doing internal work 

51 minutes ago, Lucan said:

s14 flywheel, m20 clutch, g240 tranny

Was suggested it could be vibration damper - I did use the same part on both engines.

If it is bad enough to knock you will see it wobble 

Have you only had this issue with that clutch/fly set up installed? I would be suspicious of your thrust bearing or the fork rattling. Otherwise it is entirely possible you have crank walk issues, but the chances of that with two engines

Also check for headers hitting and that kind of jumk

8 minutes ago, Mad_Max said:

Hahaha dude, you pay me enough and you can have anything you want ?????

I'd do anything for $20

That has made my day 

Tidy wheels, tyres are no good. Used them to roll the race car around, no longer needed. All center caps function, dirty from storage 

$250ono, located Hastings.

I'll take it, pmd

I didn't do anything but I let a mate take my 325 to the car club for a hoon and the silly old car decided coolant wasn't it's thing

I guess that's part of the e36 game, I didn't really have time to test the car properly and I have a complete hose kit for it but didn't fit it ?

9 hours ago, Bruce 1234 said:

OK. The ADS interface. Can these be bought in NZ? Or any suggested overseas supplier?

My 20 pin connector does not have pin 15 - so to go from the 20 to 16 pin adaptor - does anyone have a wiring diagram?

Also, I have been told that INPA is not the best program for this age (older) car. With the above ADS interface etc any suggestions on what software to use?

Checking for an injector pulse / spark - as the vehicle is not cranking I don't see how I could do this? At one stage I thought about checking for power at the fuel pump - can you normally hear these prime at start up?

I have a strange e39 here that will only communicate via the ads interface (tiny ADS, computer and all that was built by Tawa one here) and with my second INPA set up using an adapter throws can communication codes. INPA and ISTA are the bees knees 

Sorry did not read the cranking part. 

Have you confirmed ignition switch active  relay etc? Otherwise dead key, fried DME or no EWS action would be my suspicion 

Check for injector pulse or spark? 

Where are you located? (Never mind, re read post) 

Only reliable way to use a 20 pin port is with an ADS interface and serial cable 

Last test I saw was around 45nm. So about as useful as dragging your foot on the ground 

Beautiful. If only I had a car to fit them to

Not a BMW at all, but put a new clutch in this  new brakes and such and started detailing it for my uncle. 

I missed my one during the first 10 minutes of driving. And then I remembered a sorted e36 is more fun. 

I also got some red cloth e36 sport seats and started a clean up on those. I'll go get a pic 

The breakaway torque on them is unbelievably low. Completely useless. 

The only "cheap" lsd was the old OBX units but they stopped making them for bmws, could modify them to work nicely (Honda guys still do)

New, unused.

Located hastings 

$40 

I have ADS interface set up in Hawkes Bay that should talk to it.