dirtydoogle

Right, I've had a look at my Hilux, Lexus, Corolla, e36 316, our work truck and Camry, all are below 100mV running

I would be constantly checking the alkalinity of your coolant during the testing. 

467mV sounds a bit high to me? I can have a look at some of my cars and see what they're doing

Kettle is always on at mine, door open and dog waiting if you want Graham 👍 

Bring it over and have a cuppa. I'll scare it in to behaving. 

Have you checked the harmonic balancer? Very common failure 

On 10/17/2020 at 8:08 PM, Blackie said:

I've driven half a dozen different ones of these while working for Ford. They were around 20k in the late 90's. Interesting cars but the asking prices well exceed the experience in my opinion.

Cool story, the sales team wouldn't let people test drive them in the wet after a couple of incidents! ? 

I have to agree. Same could be said of the Escort Cossie and E30 M3

3 hours ago, polley said:

They are just a bit lazy for what they are tbh. Been in a few 1uz powered vehicles and they were a bit boring.

That's certainly true regarding the first generation 1UZFE, very heavyinternals and valve springs made of cheese, not a very inspiring motor in standard form.

The 2and gen onwards ones go much better. The later 3uzfe is a lovely bit of gear, our GS430 goes noticeably better than my e39 540 did 

I use a cheapo one with my petrol blaster. 

I'm sure it's tool pro

It worked pretty well but I did modify the nozzle a little for a better "sheet" effect and I have rejetted it too, keihin/mikuni jets work quite well for that ?

Rejecting for better foam action does make a decent difference in the amount of product used 

That's quite true. But there's a whole lot more as circuit cars here in NZ than drifting. 

I'll stick to hoarding parts and driving old British cars instead

I knew hoarding e36 manual conversions and useless OEM junk was my great retirement plan 

Use high tensile or stainless threaded rod, 12mm. Perfectly adequate 

The tool I have uses 12mm galv threaded rod and that's fine, unless you haven't aligned it correctly 

My tool is much the same as the one in the OP

Getting an old laptop with a serial port is the way to go, but not as easy to set up as the plug and play foxwell 

I have a tinyADS interface for pre obd2 cars and run win7 on an old HP elitebook and it works extremely well for early and later model 

That's a spanner in the works 

Well, if it was placed there I would suggest access from under the car is the way 

Or just go from the top with skinny arms 

Follow the wiring in the clipped on harness that runs over the thermostat housing, that will lead you to your sensor above the pulley 

As far as I can tell only US market m44 ran the sensor under the manifold. I've got a Jap market one here and have had an nz new one, both triggered off the pulley. 

I am yet to personally see an m5x or m4x in nz that triggers off the rear 

You won't be running in to a restriction as such with forced induction on the standard cams until the 600+hp mark anyway. There are definitely gains to be had with a better cam design but it all depends on what you're wanting as an end result 

A basic re-grind will only take off some of the base circle, leaving you with a longer duration but the same slow ramp speeds. It is possible to build the lobes up and grind them to a better spec but for that cost you could get an off the shelf unit

I have a tool in hastings I'm happy to lend out. They're very easy to make up and much handier than a square to use 

Glad you sorted it 

Any of the bmw OEM cam swaps are fairly mediocre and the biggest benefit would be more gas extraction lowering chamber temps and not increasing much hp. 

If you were keen a set of decent aftermarket cams will do wonders, but I personally wouldn't bother with the m50nv intake cam on the exhaust side, or the m54 cam swap, both are poorly specced cams and lend very little power gain 

It's nice to see that car go to a decent owner! Most "nice" e36s are getting wrecked by flat bill hat wearing vapers, 

Will be cool to see this car tidied up properly 

She'll be right mate ?

Keep in kind with excessive carbon build up you may have poor valve sealing so be prepared to do an oil change after and let it crank a bit before firing. 

Direct injection is a total pain in the arse. 

That's not too bad at all. Walnut blasting is the safest way because you don't risk etching any of the surfaces 

Otherwise start with the least aggressive approach possible. You could get the majority out with gun cleaning brushes and degreaser 

Being an HK car I suspect ZF, pretty sure only SA and JDM were Jatco?

On 12/21/2019 at 8:48 PM, Gaz said:

 

Couple of 30ds on trademe for 10k to but closing in on 300km but they are overpriced in my opinion. Those engines aren't bulletproof, had 3 with bearing failures in the last 6 months 

What was the cause of failure? If the fuel filter isn't done regularly they tend to have a lovely habit of diluting the oil especially with lots of cold starts. But that's a servicing fault. 

We ran two for towing at my last job and the 3.0d was solid as a rock. The 30d/sd was a pain though. Not as trouble free as the e53s were 

If you are going to the trouble of helicoils or timeserts why not just go to a 12mm stud instead? Then you can run a coarse thread like the alloy wants and go to a decent depth. 

Helicoil vs timesert is a heck of an argument. One issue I take with timeserts is the ridiculous stress risers everywhere being a cut thread. 

The second issue is the relatively low area involved in both of them. It's not much extra effort to run a 12mm stud 

Being the single turbo m57 model I would say that's good buying, if the trans has been serviced it will be a winner.

Much less costly to own than any other e70, would be the only one I would touch

I don't believe it would have air suspension? 

The petrol ones are garbage now they're at this age.