MoJoJoe

Anybody have exprience with Hi-Velocity or know how much they charge for a tune/remap? I heard its nearly around $500 ~ $800? Is that true? In that case I may rather get a chip to work out a remap for the small lower end torque loss from the M50 manifold. I might be heading down to Auckland later next month after I hopefully finish the work on my car and fix the problems. I am thinking to get a remap or a chip. I am not sure if a chip is possible for the 328i? I heard they can not be chipped? Does anybody know how much $$ I am looking to spend to get a simple tune/remap done for my cars NA motor, it will have some exhaust, intake and manifold work.

I always saw look at a cars condtion before you look at its millage. There are many that will tell you 200,000 Km is considered a baby motor. The motors are bullet proof as long as it has seen the avarage maintenence. You need to do a lot more homework,( not saying this in a way to sound rude) But check the cars service records. I guess at this point of life it doesn't matter too much if its Jap or Euro import but a owner who has taken care of the car as changed all fluids and coolants between intervals as they should. See if the car had any overheating issues and if the owner has overhauled the cooling system, if not you can do it yourself. The radiator, fan clutch, tstat, water pump. Hopefully the differential was also taken care of and saw fluid changes. The interior is what I cared about the most, the E36 is notorious for the crappy interiors but once its done its done. depending on the car you may beed a new headliner, A & C pillars, door cards and sagging glove box redone. I did most of those stuff myself on my previous e36. Currently I own a 328i which unfortunately ran into some problems I am trying to figure out, This forum has 2 and a half camps, 1 is the E30 Camp and the other is the smaller E36 camp. IMO brother, The E36 M3 is one of the best drivers cars out there along with the E30 but I rather pass that since I prefer the looks of the E36 more and it has the better engine. Buy it, you will love the car, for 16K I think you should be able to get a VERY good E36 M3.

anybody here got a fuel pressure tester? you know those little things with a dial that tests the PSI while the engine is running? I am thinking to test my fuel pump and regulator pressure. Yea really leaning on the sensors, the car shows the symptoms of "bad sensors" eg. car will stall if coming to a light or slows down from a fast speed. I think if my fuel pump was bad it would do so while covering long 100 - 200 km distances and not short 5 km distances. Will the codes get wiped off if I unplugged the battery? M3AN seems to be willing to lend me his code reader for a couple of weeks while I test things out(I am paying him a deposit which he will refund once I return it). I am hoping it will show up on it. PS: Manifold rubber gasket ring is torn, Did a closer inspection on the manifold this morning closely, that was definitely the red gasket rings you have on the 6 manifold intakes. Should I replace it now with my M50 manifold kit since I have all the parts at hand? I guess would be a nice project over the weekend and would give me the chance to take out the ICV(intake control valve), clean it up and check the other vaccume lines.

To do on my list now Cam Position Sensor Crankshaft Position Sensor Valve Cover Gasket Oil Filter Rings & Gaskets(I may leave this for later) Hopefully this will do my job, otherwise I might be looking at additional Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Regulator. Will let your guys know once I cab oull out some codes. PS: is it possible for the Crank and Cam sensors to malfunction sometimes and not othertimes? I am debating if its the Sensors or the Fuel Pump / Regulator aswell. See I pulled the Fuel pump relay and i couldnt replicate the issue the way it stopped like boggling down. Pulling the relay causes it to die peacefully, but that day it keps shaking and make choking noises as if there is something stuck in the exhaust or intake and boggling down forcing the rpm down with it. So I am hoping its not the fuel pump thats getting hot and becomes inoperable, but hopefully the code reader can pull out some codes and point me to the right direction.

When I was looking for my 328i, I saw a nice e36 convert (328i) with 230Km's for around 5K. I would think a very good e36 vert (non M3) with good interior and low km's could be had for under 10K and would be a lot of fun for the weekends. However If I were you I would get the E36 M3, in good shape and looked after condtion. with a hard top and sun roof, that would be FUN and not to mention you can get the best deals within your budget if you keep looking. E46 is also a nice car I just prefer the E36, and perhaps a nice E30 M body over it.

Forgot to mention, I have a small oil leak somewhere, eagle had a peep too, its nothing serious and from the looks of the stains its my valve cover or the oil filter housing(if not both), I know its common for these engines to be a bit wet, so I didnt bother much. I wonder if I should have changed that too? Could be some oil going into the cylinders? Its on my to do list once I get the scanner and scan the car, for the fault codes. then I will get some degreaser to clean the engine/bay and get the parts and everything and start the repair process all at once and finish it all over the week/weekend. Still need a way to test the fuel pressure and fuel pump. I am afraid even after the faul code scanner, they may end up being the culprits after I replace the sensors. edit: this was a very good read. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1690962-Ever-wonder-what-all-those-sensors-actually-do - tells you what the sensors and everything does and what happens when they fail. definitely changing the cam position sensor and crank sensor, these two are masters of the stalling and cranking syndrom. then its the fuel pump and fuel regulator. but will wait till I actually have the code reader at hand next week hopefully if everything works out good.

I think you are right, its pobably electronics overheating and shuting down. I will replace those 2 sensors, just as preventive maintenence. ps: one question, you know how when you crank the motor the wire sends the power to run the starter motor? does the crank sensor depend and power from that? after the car starts, power to that wire should not be required, should it? Untill I stop and want to crank again? I have a anti hijack kill switch type security system on it which upon being touch activated powers a relay to keep the circuit closed for half a min, which is enough for the car to be cranked and started. I dont think it could be the problem as the car has run great all these dayas with it, I also have a hunch, maybe if its not the sensors then its the oil pump or regulator at fault. So I asked someone here for a hand held scanner to see if it can catch any fault codes, then I will buy the parts next week. if you guys have any other suggestions for me to look while my hands are dirty over the weekend, please let me know I was also thinking any O2 sensors but that doesn't make sense.... currently wanting to test the fuel pump.

Yea, I was thinking of ordering new cam sensor from milland. Is a crank sensor one needed? never had problem with it cranking, once the engine starts running it shouldnt cause a issue with it suddenly boggling and losing all power and stalling would it? I am thinking its the fuel pump and associated things. how do you test the fuel pump and regulator? I will try to take out the ICV/Intake Control valve tomorrow and clean that.

Update and some pictures I have run the Oil Separator Blockage Test I took a piece of paper, and opened the engine oil fill cap while the engine was running and then, i saw there was vacuum and the paper was kind of being sucked on. So hopefully that is good. I also removed the fuel pump relay trying to replicate the problem while the engine was running, however and it stopped peacefully but not like how it stopped in the road, as if it was choking. Intake boot - Fine no Rips or Cracks There doesn't seem to me any cracks or anything like that on my intake boot after the maf, I took off everything up to the throttle, there seems to be some black oil like dry wet stuff in the manifold. Everything leading from the air box seems to be fine. Manifold Bad Seal? However I found what could be a vacuum leak? See the manifolds red gasket rubber seal is coming out as if its torn? I guess I can now do that m50 manifold swap with the eric kit I got. Could anybody tell me where else should I be looking for vacuum leaks? Camshaft Position Sensor I removed the Cam shaft Position sensor that's right next to the vanos solenoid. and between the red and yellow (pin 1 and pin 2) I get a reading of 1.4K ~ 1.6Ohms but that drops to around 1.1 ~ 1.2. And between pin 2 and pin 3 I get nothing. Is that about right? Should I replace it? Also noticed upon pealing the rubber boot on the connector, that the red, yellow and black pvc coating on the wires have actually flaked off apart. an the wires although coated with something seems to be touching one another? could this be an issue? the wires are kinda live and I can read if they are touched by my multimeter leds. Again Does it need to be replaced? As for now I am not even thinking to check the Crank Position sensor since the car seems to crank and start up fine usually under 2 - 3 seconds of turning the key. thinking of what else whould I be checking next guys, tomorrow morning. Some suggestion how to test the fuel pump? I kinda think it with some other things may be the issue of otherwise a very good looked after car.

thanks, thats exactly what i meant to say. Most of the times you cant rely on most mechanics to know your exact problem, many years ago I took a car to a father son family owned shop in auckland to fix the spodometer playing up, after nearly $1000 and 7 days he still couldnt fix it and he justified his "service" by replacing some spark plugs. I rather google and consult the forums as you said and go by trial and error route and see what is the failing component. Then i will try replcing those and run a scanner at the end. I am sure I can figure out most of the stuff myself. Just need some good read ups. If possible please link me to some to test the sensors and fuel pump. I am checking for vaccume leaks now. It will take me time but I know I will figure it out and it will be something silly. Will post back and let you all know how things go and any updates. thanks

okay, so I changed the fuel pump relay and the one next to it. the one of the legs seemed a bit burned, then I unplugged the maf sensor and drove it back about 2 km, half of it uphil. ran a bit jerkey and rough but thats due to the maf I guess. so now its sitting in my lawn, waiting testing of the parts one by one. can anyone suggest some spots for vaccume leaks? I am thinking the intake boot and the vac hose leading from it. what else.

JK Euro did it for someone I knew on his e36, costed about one and a half gran however make sure you tell them to use new bushing and everything.

Thanks eveyone, I am just trying to get the usual suspects and possibilities then I will just go test them one by one if they are working or not and hopefully single out the problem. I have a millimeter and basic electronics know how. So far I am checking the Oil Pump, Cam Position Sensor, Crank Sensor, Vaccume leaks on the Intake Boot, Oil seperator, MAF & Oil Pump Relays? If anybody got anything to throw at my checklist. Yes the first time it happened the tank was 1/2 full. Then I did let the tank go low till the light came because I wanted to use BP 95. Ran fine and I just took another tank yesterday and this happened. So the BMW Scanner wont work on my E36 OBDII/328i? So how do you scan it and check for codes, I mean didn't Eagle just say he "scanned" his friends one? if this is a common issue then I just want the common culprits then I can start working. thats all I am asking here. if there is anyone willing to lend me their scanner that may help in my endovour (instead of waiting a month for it to arrive from ebay) then I would be very happy aswell. and I am glad some have come forwards. I dont see how old men monkeying around on the fence or leaving toolish popcorn remarks help my situation (i am not talking about you). Nor do I see how calling out a mac here will do anything but waste my time pay him by the hour to try and test stuff I can probably check myself at home if you would link me to some DIY's. Last garage that I went to guy was a master mac and went through uni for 10 year and still didnt know how to remove my clutch fan.

My father had a stroke few days ago so I and the neighbours had to call the ambulence and then go find the ambulence going around circles in our rural neighbourhood for over an hour. everything has been going downhill since then. I was on my way back from the hospital and to the shop to get some work done on the car while this happend. Tomorrow I will see if the car starts up, if it does I will try to rush it back home, will take the neighbours truck, if it fails we will shut the engine down, and put it on N as we tow it up hill and I steer. wish me your best. Thanks for offering your scanner . I much appreciate it, I will write back whan I get the car back home tomorrow. I also finally joined a US forum(bimmerfest) to see if I can get some more help there as some threads with similar issues as mine seem to have collected there..

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Hello, Yes it was funny at the time, sorry I see what you mean. I am in Whangarei. I own a 328i and soon a 5 series DD (540i). If you would be willing I can cover the shipping to have your scanner sent down to me. I have also updated my original post with the whole ordeal I have been going through the day. The insurence for my other car unlike previous AA wont cover this, so I dont want to call out somebody else to tow me back 2 KM to my home. I am thinking to go try it with a neighbour again with better tow rope and by putting the car on N and engine OFF. hopefully we can tow it back to my home and then I can play mechanic. Raed my first post again, I updated it. I checked some basic stuff while it was doing it but norhing serious. Too much pressure. thanks I guess, do you have one by chance? I dont want the car sitting in my lawn till the ebay stuff comes in the usual 15 - 30days. PS: did the previous owner mention anything like this? or did you feel any thing like it while you had it or took it for a drive. finding it real strange, my other cars never had such a problem. I had a bad headgasket in a car but that thing was due to a water pump and would show symptoms when it got warm and then it would overheat. This thing never overheated and for some reason just dies and even refused to start up. Weird since this was a issue I got when driving it the first day I got it, I texted you, remember? but then I thought the lose hose caused it. these stupid little problems really sucks. I was about to go get my exhaust done today. I understand, I may not be well versed with engine management but I am pretty good with cars and mechanically/electronically inclined, I havent done any serious engine work but I am sure I could figure it out once I get it back to my house. I could use the tool to look up the codes its throwing and then google them I guess, It will probably be some little sensor or the fuel system. I dont think I am ready to go pay hundreads to the local shops to check that for me if I can do it myself over a weekend. If we just eliminate the impossible and you guys tell me whats the more common culprit for this issue on these cars then I am sure it would help a lot in my adventure.

Does the scanner look like some big computer machine or something small that plugs into the reset engine pakman thing? Where do you buy one and how much are they or do you have one I could borrow to pull the codes? never had any problems with my other bmw. this sems to be filled with electronic issues. and right after it fails, it also refuses to restart, it will keep cranking the engine and never start, unless I wait for like another 10 mins. I am afraid to go pick it up from the motel myself, as I live uphill and if it stops, I will be a world of trouble. anybody got a scanner I may borrow please or idea whats going on?

but it wont run more than 5 or 10 mins. and the nearest shop is many kilometers away. whats used to scan it? does anybody here have a scanner I can borrow I will cover the shipping and back. I remember the day after I bought it from hamilton I took it for a ride around the moutains and on my way back I ran into this problem, but it corrected itself. I dont get it. I would hate it to be dirty fuel, I have been trying this stuff since last week. 95 BP. I wonder if its something electronic, its cutting the engine after a while I guess if the engine is idling low or sitting specially at parking or stop lights.

Hey Guys, So today as I was dropping some one at the hospital on my way back my 328i just shut down on the highway!, I was able to restart it about 5 mins later and move fast into another little road on the side, and it died again! I am not sure but I seem to recall this issue since I got the car last month. It only happened one and it was coming out of a corner, as soon as I came out the whole car boggled down and turned itself off. I at the time thought it was a lose vaccume hose going to the airbox and I fixed that and the problem seemed to go away. Now I have been driving the car fine up untill today. On my way back from the hospital after speding off the motor way as soon as I slowed down to an uphill exit the car started to boggle and the speedo dropped and it just died! Started right back up and I was able to drive it a few hundread meters away before it happened again. Then it wont start again at all, it would just keep cranking and thats it. I waited some 30 mins and it did start and I was able to cover some distance on it, till it broke down right infront of a motel, where I sat for hours tryingto figure out what it was, checked the intake boot and hoses with the few tools I carry in the car but it just wont start up, keeps cranking. then I was eventually able to start it up again only to make it a few hundread kilometers till I stopped at the lights and it shut down! but started up again! and I was able to go a few hundread meters more before it shut down again and I took a corner and came to a stop in a lone road. came back with neighbour it started right up and I kept the thing running while in N and then D. we covered half about a 1KM before the cheap rope snapped and took off my number plate with it. I was able to restart the car and drive it for about a few hundread meters before again it stopped at the lights. restarted and drove and did the same thing again and stopped at another motel just about 2 km from up hill where I live. I havent really had any chance to see it but I was going to go with some relays and see if it was the fuel relay, but something tells me its the crank position sensor, the 02 sensor or a bad intake boot, notice I also removed the snorkel from my intake so wondering if the extra air is causing it to leak and fail faster somehow. I dont get it, it did a few hundread kilometer from Hamilton to far north! Just the other day I traveled hundread kilometers in this car, no problems what so ever, and I took it around the neighbourhood (few KM's) for a spin. all the water cooling system was done by the previous owner, I double checked it, he did a new radiator, water pump, tstat, fan clutch. I am thinking its the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay or crank sensor or something. HELP ME PLEASE!!

yea, that sounds like the best option really. so should I have the shop cut out the cats and replace them with hollow pipes or should I keep the cat boxes and have them weld it open, remove everything inside and weld it back shut? thanks

Seems you have done this before, I read about a Y resonator, I saw 2 resonators before the muffler 1 on each pipe but where is the Y resonator? IIs that inside the stock factory muffler? Then that makes my job easier as we wont need a Y adapter to match the bends and can simply cut the muffler open and weld on from there or something and have the job done right, I dont want the exhaust to sound like crappy honda fart can. Nor do I want it to be so loud that its setting off alarms of my neighbours or gets annoying inside my cabin. I want a nice idle drone and a nice tune when I floor it. So tell me all about it. I care about cabin noise, so I wont delete the resonators, insetad thought of deleting my cats with straight pipes or gutting them and welding them back shut.So it would be something like this No Cats > Resonators > Y Resonator > Remus Muffler. My friend can weld so if we can do it I rather take my time and not bother going to the muffler shop. PS: car is a 328i (M52 motor). Also would I need the SA version software flash for my engine since theyy didn't come with cats? Is that a DIY I can do myself(the software flash) or need to take it to someone here. I think gavin @ hi-velocity charges around a grand give or take for a tune(first time) so I cant go to him just yet for this small stuff. maybe at a later date if I have some more engine mods.

taking it to the shop tomorrow. I think I will go single straight pipe from the headers aswell, but what about the resonators? do we need them? or will the car sound crap/wont pass wof tests without them?

is it okay im running the snorkel like I am with the side cut? I wanted the sound but just not the hot air and any performence loss. and now that i think of it, most short ram cai's without a heat shield would be worse off.

updated with pics, whats the verdict? feedback please.

okay, did that. no baffle and no snorkel but cant tell much of a diffrence of in the sound, there is a slight improvement I think.. should I cut the snorkel on the car fender side and use it as a heat shield from the engine side air?? edit: so this is what I ended up doing. I cut the area with a razor blade, I think this would prevent some of the hot air from the engine side, still keep the function of the snorkel by pushing cold air from the front to the air filter, the inlet is just bigger to keep some of the noise. hopefully this was I wont have any performence loss and still can keep the growling noise. verdict?