MoJoJoe

Thanks fellas, appreciate all your comments. funny this thread didn't take off like the other ones that had just as many views (260+) so I am pretty sure almost everybody whos a regular here has seen my car, but only a few came out, makes me feel quite unwelcome here.. Dont be shy due previous history, leave me a line and say hello if you see me in Auckland, Northland, Hamilton & Christchurch. Thanks again

I think its a combination of your Gerbox slipping along with a failing Crank and Cam Shaft Sensor. Get it scanned from someone, I reccomend Ray @ HelBM. Or just buy a ebay code reader for $100 NZD Shipped. The problem gets worse as time goes so dont let the car stop you in the middle of the road like mine did, get it scanned and fix the issues.

So much win. Although I never fit into that above "group" and dress modestly well, I would start around 8K minimum. Still curious how much would he let it go for anyway.

how much? swap?

thanks dave, my car's due for a wheel alingment anyway so might just pop in if I am in auckland. you dont require appointments do you?

let me guess, you saw her shaking her head to some crazy boom boom music as she passed you by with her window down, a blondie just getting things done. lol. I think I spotted a few bmw guys I know locally near riverside bp but i kept honking my horn and the bus driver kept stopping everytime, it stopped being funny the 4th time but what the heck, I like screwing with people anyway.

hey fellas, trying to get an idea how much does his aligments run for our cars?

nice car andy, being a e34 how much are you expecting to get for it? I imagine it would be a misso to drive it down from CHCH. I might bid and see how it goes

^ best advice. if you want more power start from a better base as a 328i or something because by the time you have spent xx on your car to get close to the m50b25/m52b28 engines you have already spent enough to get that said car. i drove a 318is for many years untill I crashed it and then decided to get a better bmw, you really dont need a faster car, what are you gonna do with 50 more WHP that you cant do now? shave off a 1 second of your 0 - 60 time? just leave it man. save your money to maintain these cars or get a better bmw to start with then if you still need more power you can spend it on a blower.

thats close to auckland. try gavin @ hi velocity, best tune up guy "near" you. usually his tunes will probably add 20 - 30 whp just from his tunes. a bit expensive but worth it.

mind if I ask where are you from? you could get a muffler from a 328i or maybe a remus universal or something and maybe decat it with straight pipes or single/twin resonator? small horse power, I guess do mods to your airbox and clean up your ICV, get a chip?

Okay, I have kept you all in the dark quite a bit, But I finally got everything sorted the way I wanted, I am yet to give it a good wash and wax. But here's my Ethirtysex, MoJo, Yes thats what I called the car you dodos why do you think I had that username? - 3.64 LSD - M50 Manifold mod with a proper kit - Remus Exhaust with Single Resonator - X Brace and Top Strut Bar - 17" BBS RS in Gloss Alpine White - Lowered and new SACHS Suspension all Around - De baffled Air box with Drop in recharged K&N filter & brake duct mod - Custom Lip/Splitters on Mtec Bumper (Also got something in work for the rear) Most of the interior was redone by the previous owner and then I just did a little bit work myself, So far I have replaced most of the sensors, spark plugs, oil, rocker cover gasket and other minor gasket/o ring/leak locations vice versa. According to the VIN the Car was factory M equipped with the Mtech suspension. It also came with DLR/Angle Eyes, m/// moldings all around which I also suspect the previous owner had placed along with the rear Motorsports badge which I think is okay for now. The Wheels had some Curbing so I ended up having them fixed and painted by Steve @ Steve's Panel and Paint, hes got some really good prices and is only about 40Km's off up north to Whangarei. With the car and all this I have spent total upwards of 8K. I also had bought M3 cams and what not to install in the car but decided I like it as it is, enough grunt and fun to drive.The car was originally mostly taken care of by BM Workshop at Botany, Although I like doing business with Ray @ Hell BM better since I bought my Xbrace from him. The XBrace and exhaust was done from by Kamo Muffler Center, Its a Good local family shop that has been in business for nearly 30 years now. Martin was a really helpful guy who did it for a song and most people know him in town for including Allan who refereed me to him initially. The X brace I got from Ray was a bit bent but we manged to put it right up. My car already had the holes on the sub frame (late 1995) So we used bolts and nuts laying around the shop instead of nutserts, what we did was used magnets to insert the 4 studs through the sub frame and and they came out fine. then just bolted them down to torque and then some spot welds to make sure they didn't come off. And gridded the extra so it doesn't scrape. I think this is a better and more simpler solution then using Nutserts. Car originally didn't have any factory bars there, only one that held on to the transmission, with the Xbrace now it feels a lot more stiff when handling Best car this 20 something year old kid has had, thanks to all of you here for all the help and support.

all the 328's are supposed to be OBD2. okay, go see if anyone would lend/rent you their code reader or simply buy a code reader and stick it in your reading port in the engine bay assuming your car doesn't have a obd2 reading port like mine. read the codes, clear them and take the car for a drive and come back and recheck for any new codes. PS: why are you needing a code reader anyway?

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/46347-m50-manifold-on-328i/ *we have had enough m50 manifold topics for a year. read that and forward any any other questions you got there, a few of us with autos here have done it, we like it, some people dont, just do it. the instructions however are different then what eric @m50manifold provides you with. I had the same kit and you may need a few smaller parts like replacing the VANOS to CCV line with a heater core pipe. I can help with the installation if you want to share super girl in the avatar

just go, buy it and have it sent, dont put m50 and group buy in bs forums in the same topic. i have it, love it, but fuel consumption has gone a lot higher and it runs a bit rich, drove 200km so far. good mod if you got a jatco crap auto. jusst do it. cost be less then $250 nzd shipped for the kit and I love it. i have s52 cams, will do $620 shipped.

thanks guys.

Schnitzel!!!! I will post some pics and details of my car soon, everything is done and has been sitting on and off in my lawn for a week.

Oh ok I'm in then. DJG546 I might take 2 sets(4x). one set of Black Background and Gold/White Text for the retro NZ Plates look and another set normal NZLT Issue black fern replicas.

Same wear as expected from the NZLT issued ones or...makes me want to invest in........better ones... is it just the stickers that burn/fade out or is the problem related to the plates itself?

Wait a sec...you mean they don't hold up? Do they start to fall apart or discolour/fade out from nz weathering or something like after having them on my car for a few months? that would suck so much..

That should be it, hes got the numbers now, so probably he will give us a 1 week heads up and we put the money in his bank and then the plates and frames will come at our doon within a few more weeks. I want to organize something with someone who posted in a few pages earlier and see if we can print some m3 style stickers to replace the NZ Flag.

got any new updates andy, I think you are pretty close to the number of people you needed to make things worth it?

Betrayal! so amber blonde doesn't have any BMW's any more.. Why an Italian car over a Precise engineered german... *crosses out for potential dating/partner* nah its great

If you read the first few posts I have said it over and over again that I dont have a Factory Alarm, I saw no signs of a factory alarm and the previous owner had cut off the alarm the car shipped with which from the led in the dash aswell as the wiring(tapping here and there) I could tell was not factory either. The alarm I have mongoose which i bought from reretardme. I installed a different alarm, an old one from the 90's I had sitting around, it also only had 1 remote. After installing and programing then that was doing this same thing, so I bought the mongoose and had the professional installed install it when I got stuck with the mongoose outputting the 12V + to the central locking. Yes. I got 2 remotes with it, one had bad batteries and the other low. So I ordered some batteries CR2016 x2 on each remote. Installed them yesterday and programmed the mongoose with the remotes and It worked fine the whole day and this morning the alarm works fine! I disarmed it from inside my house 20 feet away! You are right, so seems its was a battery/remote related issue with this alarm and most likely my other alarm as well and had nothing to do with the cars wiring or the alarm head. I have also disconnected the hood pin so wonder if that had anything to do with it. I will reconnect and test again tonight. But most certainly it was the batteries in my remotes. thanks guys