MoJoJoe

I know that car, I viewed it, it felt okay but not desirable. Only reason I even viewed it was it was an IS so = stock lsd option. Overall the handeling was okay but the interior and motor felt doggish, thats a sh*t car imo when I saw it the po was a women who didn't do enough maintenence, and was proud of it. It sold for $2000 - $2400. even the conversion from LHD to RHD was not done right as you can tell from everything.

ah, yes i know of that, so fues 7 controls that ring around the ignition and I need it for the car to start? could that had been messing with my alarm systems? will put it back on tomorrow. most of my fueses were 32v strangely. shouldn't they be normal 12v ones?

Hi Neal, thanks for trying to help. its connected to a RED (constant) I also had a professional do the second alarm for me, I got a multimeter and did the alarm install on this first time around myself, also did it on a few other cars. have all the wires figured. I have a diamond shaped key with a little yellow light(torch) on it, the car does not have a factory alarm, the alarm I have right now is a mongoose, the alarm module can remember things so even if you disconnect the battery it doesn't matter and keys dont need to be reprogramed, no cmos style batteries inside when I opened the unit. So I was reading and there Fuse 7 is labled "Infrared" ( burglar alarm) ?? I wonder what it does because I have it disconnected. (Central locking is working as the fuse for that or windows rolling seems to be 43). think its some kind of security related feature? that works in conjunction with the other features? i was reading and found this "RF receiver is in the rear view mirror, and it downconverts the 433MHz to lower frequency data for the ZKE" so could this be somehow interfearing with my alarm/ i will leave it like this overnight and then see tomorrow if the problem goes away and if it does I will reconnect the fuse and try again, could had just been bad batteries or a hood pin switch which I unplugged as well. i also put new batteries in my alarm remote and reprogrammed them, has been working nice the whole day now hopefully this sorts my problem, so far so good, if it works fine tomorrow then its good as gold.

lovely car, mint interior, I would had taken it but short of funds. should sell pretty fast. all the best

up.

sorry to hear about your loss, my one looks a lot like yours apart from the colour, so makes me even more worried. I just had an alarm installed on mine and its a bit malfunctioning, did yours have one? where was it parked? in a lone place? could be the guys were targetting you for some time, these thiefs often run a syndicate look out for good cars then follow them around and get an idea of the moment of the owner/car and strike based on a time where they know you would be on x place away from your car for y ammount of time. whos your insurer? was it hassle free to claim insurence from them? i am looking to insure mine. all the best

My car(1995 328i) has an Strange Alarm Issue, I think it may be something pretty common so please give me your inputs. Previous owner had the alarm cut off, never told me why but from the wiring I could tell it must have been an after market unit, so I installed an alarm myself and had everything working and it would work fine for a few hrs but then the thing would not disarm. Had a professional install another alarm for me and its now doing the same thing. it will arm and disarm fine but if left for a few hrs the signal from the remote gets weaker and overnight it just wont disarm. unless I trigger the alarm off and reprogram the keys. My Battery is new and fine, and I have fixed the bad wires in the trunk harness that breaks. something is telling me there is something thats happening in the car when left for sleep mode or some previous alarm RF frequency in the rear view mirror or something that makes the communication between the alarm and the fob very hard and then makes it forget. Is this a common issue I think it maybe an interference or the temperature or something? maybe a capacitor somewhere? can anybody please help?

Sounds good, Thanks. I think I will probably take the following 2x Custom Plates 2x BMW Plate Frame

I am wondering is this purely a EURO plate thing I mean what if we get the plates without any thing on either side and to look blank like the original normal NZ plates or in older black background version something like this on the right, I wonder the legality of this on the right. Most cops are looking for the stuff on the left, but the one on the right is something different entirely and may just pass as a custom plate? I don't know if I saw that option in plates.co.nz either.

How many people do you need andy?? 8 more or less? you already got me and the other guy? So whats the verdict on a limited run for bmw m power sticker on the left side instead of the NZ flag? NZ Ferm on right, and BMW m power on left. I appreciate what you are doing, you know I wouldn't mind paying you $10 ~ $20 on top for your effort. pays better then being an ahole and rubbing it in, you know? they guy is helping out the community and I understand I need them and he shouldn't be bothered but I just asked is hey if he does post here and come and go regularly whats the big deal other then ego to just drop me a txt or a line on a message, not really babby sitting. Just saying because i never use internet forums and stuff like that, but see how the subscribe feature works. I subscribed so hopefully when its near baking point I get a notification and come back.

lol. I'm just saying I dont like screws to bite into plastic, I prefer nuts and bolts, pan head or counter sunk ones would sit flush. never mind, i am beyond your help.

got it thanks, any reason why you aren't using bolts or flat pan head bolts and nuts? they would be better then tapping into plastic? PS: anybody got a set of plates I could have for temp use? mine have gotten fugly

show us how you modified it? I kinda know how it feels when the plate doesn't hug the corners, right now I have my plate bent and bolted to hug the corners properly, all covered with a euro plate frame

Ya I know but I kinda hoped you'd just sent me a pm and I would had joined in. You knew I alraedy wanted a pair, my cars front plate is screwed from the time whern we towed it back home and the rope snapped and took a lash on it anyway. okay this time I am in, when you have all the people you want just drop me a message with the bank details and I will make the deposit How about we do a limited version where we repalce the NZ flag sticker on the left with the BMW M colours stripe?

I wanted the plates whens the next time?

Thanks Jo, I did just that. Have really taken my time and results were great, flawless. Finished the manifold and took the car for a drive, the install was really simple once I figured the hoses and stuff out, putting it in the car was the hard part. I took my time and was doing some other work and took me a few days, was hesitant to fire up but then came to life, no vac leaks or anything. I used the m50 manifold kit from m50manifold dot com. (its called the eric kit). the guy himself was very helpful to reply to my questions and emails. its not as flashy as the eurosport kit but its really good and enough for the job. M3AN's code reader got NO faults after a total 1.5hrs/Around 50Km of twist's and turns, some sprinted driving and some regular just enjoying the scene drove it around mountains, the beach and the city. Overall the m50 on my JATCO auto,is not bad at all, the grunt is there, I guess there is some torque loss between 2.5 - 3.5k but honestly I couldnt tell if there is a torque loss as its almost the same and the car does pulls a LOT harder even under 4K. Alex also said similar things(also JATCO auto). Plan on going to the motor way and trying it out, have some work to do on my wheels anyway so there it is.

I have added the manifold today. but turns out my CCV to VANOS plastic pipe didn't fit properly and also developed a leak, so I repalced it with a PVC pipe I and reused the plastic barbs. it was a very tight fit and added clamps to be sure After all said and done it feels much better and everything clicked into place, yes I added some engine oil to the o rings before connecting it. So has this been done before? I mean I dont see why it wouldn't work, I think it was plastic due to "looks" mainly? Is it bad I used a PVC heater core pipe instead of the BMW OEM plastic one or am I heading for any issues? Llooking forward to hear some reassuring opinions this is the hose I am talking about. (picture off the internet to show the pipe)

finally got the right m50 manifold today, doing it this friday/weekend. the injector seals looked good so I lubed the old injector seals with some transmission oil if that's okay? keeping the code reader for the last week till I test drive the car and see if there are any code faults. thanks PS: US Spec M3 cams back at my hand, friend dropped them off. I may also swap out the m3 cams or sell them. depending on what I find on the other forums. and if there is a loss without a tune if I added cams or if the car can be driven to auckland (200 km) with the new cams for a tune.

done

With some muscle and with nuts and bolts. can run the whole thing on normal bumpers too if you dont want to make them as splitters in the M, makes the car more aggressive. They are REAL durable stuff, not like the crap flappy rubber stuff on trademe. This stuff is stronger then your bumper itself, no kidding. thick 1/4" abs plastic that you can scrape away

updates for the front ones I am working on, this is the prototype for the front, you can shape them up anyway you like, really strong abs stuff. who wants to buy some from me or they are going straight on trademe? comes in either 2x 3 foot or 1x 6 foot pieces.

Thanks, US forums report the car will run, power can be noticed but it will run like crap unless tuned. too bad, the onesthat know here wont do full disclosure to guys like us . so looks like will be installing them myself with a hand from someone and then taking them to gavin for a tune up. unless of course I sell them. m50 manifold + lsd + us m3 cams + exhaust + headers + tune + jatco (later manual from hellbm) = loads more fun.

Anybody here got a M50 manifold? I need the 2.5L one. swapping them out is not the hard part, I just need a hand and help with the timing, however I am just curious if I should do it or if an cam upgrade to m3 cams is actually going to make my car run bad (less power) without a tune?

I need the M50 from the M50B25 (2.5L) engine. (the m50 manifold I have here is from a 2.0L engine) the larger manifold should have a part number ending with 2.5 meaning its from the m50B25.

these swap right in or I have been told, no modifications required, I just want to know do I see any gains or actual loses. I drive a auto. a few people here said if I swap the m3 cams I will probably lose power. I find that a bit puzzling to believe as even without a tune I have heard only good things (good gains) with m3 cams in a m52b28??