gjm

Prices. Just seen a near mint E28 535iS 5-speed manual for sale (in the US). Seller is dropping his price from $5000 because it's not selling... Dinan chip, LSD, near-new Bilstein shocks and H&R springs, new tyres...

Offset? I'm trying to think of a use for them here but have to draw the line at fitting them to an E30!

It's a PITA job, to be sure! (Of course, there is a cheap dealer or locksmith option!) The biggest issue was getting the parts out of the door without being able to open it...

It looks nice, but "If you are reading this then you already know how good this car is" always rings alarm bells!

Well, that should make for an interesting and lively debate! Not my line (although I do like the Mercedes) but (most of) the headline from another article: https://www.goodwood.com/grrc/columnists/dan-trent/2017/8/dan-trent-why-the-190e-2.3-16-is-better-than-the-e30-m3/

Oh, that sucks. Check your recent clients... Sounds like someone knew exactly what they were after and where to find it.

I've come to the conclusion that retaining the rolling diameter is going to mean going to a wider tyre... Why do they have to cost twice as much for a width increase of just 10mm? Oh well - safety first. And I'm sure they'll look great.

Litigation society. And (although less relevant in this case) an inability to accept responsibility, so they seek someone to blame.

Shouldn't matter, but these are for the 500SE.

I have a set of 8J & 9Jx16 rims that I'd like to use. In order to maintain (closely) factory rolling diameter, I'd like to run a 245/50-16 tyre on the wider rear rims. Looking at various pages it is suggested that this size tyre should be used on a rim from 7 to 8.5 inches wide. (Narrower than my rim .) A 245/45-16 is claimed to be typically fine on an 8 to 9.5" rim. As the profile height goes up, the recommended rim width for fitment comes down - a 245/70 should be fitted to a rim between 6.5 and 8" in width. Back in the old days we used to calculate the optimum tyre width as being rim width (in inches) multiplied by 25, plus 'a little bit'. Hardly scientific, but it worked reasonably well. Modern tyre construction means there have been many changes; for example, the tyre pressure for a given car recommended by the car manufacturer back in 1985 may not be as relevant now as it was then - good modern tyres typically run at higher pressures. The question is... Would I run into problems using a 245/50 tyre on a 9" rim? I could run a 255/50-16 (OK on a 9" rim according to the LVVTA, but still not OK according to several online calculators) but they are (literally) twice the price of a 245-wide tyre. Having resolved this little conundrum, I need to consider what size to run on the front, too...

'Hallelujah!' As in "Hallelujah! It runs!"

E30 front lighting. Is having a twin light (two lenses on each side) set up a requirement for a WoF, or is a single light on each side, performing main and dipped duties, also appropriate? Are sidelights a requirement? (Are they what NZTA refer to as 'forward facing position lamps'?)

Not at all foolish. Possibly unfortunate or poorly-advised, but that's entirely acceptable.

Either scattered, or not in a recoverable condition. It had a particularly bad night.

That's a lot less wires.

Next week? Looks like it might be 'just' the entire northbound SH1 from Bombay to Ramarama... I suppose they could have decided to both sides at the same time.

I see your two Fezzas, and raise you 11 - eleven - Aston Martins southbound on SH26 towards Paeroa.

Theoretically you could be charged on any imported item. However, the normal situation is that you'll not be charged if the total sum of duties, taxes and fees does not exceed $60 - this is because below that figure, more would be spent on admin and collection than would be collected in revenue. This threshold is known as the ‘de minimis’, and is normally adhered to. 'Normally'... Some products are subject to GST at the time of import, meaning customs charges could be payable when the value of imported goods exceeds approximately NZ$225. Bear in mind also that the applicable exchange rate is set by Customs & Excise and may not be the same as that set by international finance or a bank. If you're nudging a payment threshold, this can be important: at $60.01 you can be liable for the duties, and additional costs will apply, raising the payable amount to over $100. Once duties and GST exceed $60, a Customs Import Entry Transaction Fee (IETF) of NZ$29.26 (GST inclusive), and a Ministry for Primary Industries biosecurity system entry levy of $19.98 (GST inclusive) become payable when an IETF is charged, making the total fees payable of $49.24 (GST inclusive). Yes - you pay GST on the levies. C&E also watch for multiple packages coming through, so that's not always a way to avoid (tax evasion? Me, sir? A man in my position? ) paying the duties. The flipside is that you sometimes find a package of significantly greater value slips through somehow. Over $1000 of imported goods you come up against another issue. You need a client code which identifies identifies individual importers and exporters. To get one: complete the Trade Single Window - Client Registration Application (NZCS 224) form email or fax to Customs via the email or fax number provided on the Client code application form include the correct proof of identity, for companies and charitable trusts – Certificate of Incorporation, for individuals – passport or driver's licence It's a helluva faff. And it is your responsibility as the importer to take care of it ahead of the goods arriving in NZ.

Somewhere smack in the middle seems to be a good place to start. It is pretty, but being Whangarei will put some people off - travel to view and so on.

Last week I saw a Subaru Outback on BIG wheels, with lowered suspension. An Outback. Why do that to an Outback? Why not a Legacy? (Why do it all...? )

A PPI should advise any current issues. Better to know these ahead of purchase (and possibly be able to negotiate a price reduction) than find a MW throws obstacles in the way of a repair.

I'm sure something could be manufactured with little difficulty. Just cost and/or time. It's a Remotec. The pic shows the bolt inserted in the inside face of the bolt cover - when fitted as designed it'll normally be recessed into a round hole only slightly larger than the head of the bolt itself. I can get the securing bolt out once... It's getting them in, tight enough to secure the cover and not come undone when on the car, that will cause problems. Or undoing it again in the dark and rain when we get a puncture i the middle of nowhere... The easy solution is a more or less stock allen socket bolt, replacing this one. It's just not all that secure.

Lots of our cars will have a rim centre that hides the wheel bolts. A set of rims I have here has this bolt to secure the centre cover: The key would be an irregularly-shaped housing with 5 ball-ended pins... Of course, I don't have the 'key.' Is there anywhere that might sell the tool I need, or should I make something that will suit, or give up on the idea and buy a new set of security-type bolts?