gjm

This is the NZ Government idea where the seller (overseas) collects GST for the NZ Government?

I was trying to get a Range Rover collected from Featherston. On wheels, rolling, engine, gearbox and axles all present, we'd even moved it from the driveway to the roadside. Called companies quoting it was for scrap, suggesting a lift rather than drag might be ideal. One came out, refused to take it because it 'wasn't complete' and 'we break vehicles and you've taken parts off it'. What part of 'scrap' didn't get through? The driver didn't take the vehicle and drove off.

Main dealer parts pricing for German (at least) auto parts does contain a massive mark up. It's not the individual dealership marking up - the manufacturer representation in NZ have to pay for their fancy showrooms somehow. It's not just later model vehicles either - parts for older models are also affected. There's a part I recently bought for a Mercedes which is available ex-US as a genuine MB part at 24-off for around $36 (US). (Shipping needs to be added.) MB in NZ want $11.86 each. BMW and VAG pricing seems similar. I don't know if Japanese car parts are similarly affected.

Koenig E32 - 730i with 5-speed manual gearbox

Me too. @Olaf is living his dream with Grey Thunder... Now it's our turn!

The BiTurbos have a massive international following, probably because they are regarded as an affordable piece of Italian exotica. Engine and body parts aren't as easy to find, but electrics, trim and pretty much everything else is readily available. In terms of complexity, they're not a complicated car. An E90 is far worse. Reliability is good too, once you look past dodgy window switches and the like.

That's because no-one would keep it!

One disadvantage of looking at stuff on my oil-burning phone is I tend not to check pictures. Hadn't noticed the taped plates. Those BiTurbos are awesome cars. I'd love to have another.

Damn shame about the papers for the Maser, and the whole NZTA 'don't want to know' attitude around such things.

The M850i. The only one in NZ. And my daughter has been for a drive in it.

I do like me Z1, but... $90k? ????? I've been told they're basically only an E30...

http://www.meatstock.co.nz/

M5 7.3 V12

Miss M goes for her restricted driving test tomorrow. (Fingers crossed!) She'd like a 1-series. Can't help but feel a 135 is not really the correct choice, though.

Some years ago I tried to get correct fluids for something from an Audi dealer. Parts department was open, but they didn't have any they could sell me, and had to special order it in!

That's probably a best-case scenario. And if the owner has any mechanical sympathy, would be quite likely. If I hear noises like that, I stop driving! Not everyone is the same, though...

Sounds like a lot will depend on just how long noises were ignored for! Time, I have. Tools... Probably. (With the likely exception of timing tools specific to the M62.) Value? Possibly. If it works to be $2-3k in total (on top of purchase price) it might be worth doing.

M62B44. Probably a TU engine... It's in a 2002 model year Range Rover. What goes wrong with them? Are they expensive to fix? I had someone contact me about one with "engine problems" and the dealer apparently "suggest rebuild or replacement." Edit: Just been advised that it's "timing chain failure," "unsure about other internal damage," and that the "dealer suggests engine replacement. Could be anything from $6000 to $11000." What damage does a failed timing chain present in these? Is the dealer scaremongering, or is it likely that there is 220kg of scrap metal in the engine bay? It's cheap. Might be a bit of fun, if I can sort it without throwing a mortgage at it.

Replaced the waterpump on Miss M's car. Bit more of a mission than anticipated courtesy of previous attempted work... But we got there. It runs. It warms up. It doesn't rattle like it did.

Thanks Glenn. Clean as a whistle in the seal land. Quite remarkable actually, as the pump has obviously been leaking, or has leaked, for a while. Car was parked up for months and while the 'top' of the pulley shaft is beautiful, the lower 2/3 has surface rust. I'll sparingly apply red rubber grease. It's to lubricate and seal - I thought a water-resistant non-setting grease would be good. Thought about vaseline, but there's much less heat resistance there.

Replacing a water pump... Recommendation for the o-ring seal is to lubricate with white lithium grease to assist sealing and assembly. I thought I had some... But no. Could I (sparingly) use red rubber grease instead?

1978 633CSi with 4-speed manual. I've no doubt it'll need work (pretty much every E24 does) but these are lovely cars. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1942652606

BMWs in the car park at Leadfoot '19.

I like it. I don't $50k like it at all. Colour code a 540i, add wheels and suspension and have change from 25k?