gjm

That's because no-one would keep it!

One disadvantage of looking at stuff on my oil-burning phone is I tend not to check pictures. Hadn't noticed the taped plates. Those BiTurbos are awesome cars. I'd love to have another.

Damn shame about the papers for the Maser, and the whole NZTA 'don't want to know' attitude around such things.

The M850i. The only one in NZ. And my daughter has been for a drive in it.

I do like me Z1, but... $90k? ????? I've been told they're basically only an E30...

http://www.meatstock.co.nz/

M5 7.3 V12

Miss M goes for her restricted driving test tomorrow. (Fingers crossed!) She'd like a 1-series. Can't help but feel a 135 is not really the correct choice, though.

Some years ago I tried to get correct fluids for something from an Audi dealer. Parts department was open, but they didn't have any they could sell me, and had to special order it in!

That's probably a best-case scenario. And if the owner has any mechanical sympathy, would be quite likely. If I hear noises like that, I stop driving! Not everyone is the same, though...

Sounds like a lot will depend on just how long noises were ignored for! Time, I have. Tools... Probably. (With the likely exception of timing tools specific to the M62.) Value? Possibly. If it works to be $2-3k in total (on top of purchase price) it might be worth doing.

M62B44. Probably a TU engine... It's in a 2002 model year Range Rover. What goes wrong with them? Are they expensive to fix? I had someone contact me about one with "engine problems" and the dealer apparently "suggest rebuild or replacement." Edit: Just been advised that it's "timing chain failure," "unsure about other internal damage," and that the "dealer suggests engine replacement. Could be anything from $6000 to $11000." What damage does a failed timing chain present in these? Is the dealer scaremongering, or is it likely that there is 220kg of scrap metal in the engine bay? It's cheap. Might be a bit of fun, if I can sort it without throwing a mortgage at it.

Replaced the waterpump on Miss M's car. Bit more of a mission than anticipated courtesy of previous attempted work... But we got there. It runs. It warms up. It doesn't rattle like it did.

Thanks Glenn. Clean as a whistle in the seal land. Quite remarkable actually, as the pump has obviously been leaking, or has leaked, for a while. Car was parked up for months and while the 'top' of the pulley shaft is beautiful, the lower 2/3 has surface rust. I'll sparingly apply red rubber grease. It's to lubricate and seal - I thought a water-resistant non-setting grease would be good. Thought about vaseline, but there's much less heat resistance there.

Replacing a water pump... Recommendation for the o-ring seal is to lubricate with white lithium grease to assist sealing and assembly. I thought I had some... But no. Could I (sparingly) use red rubber grease instead?

1978 633CSi with 4-speed manual. I've no doubt it'll need work (pretty much every E24 does) but these are lovely cars. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1942652606

BMWs in the car park at Leadfoot '19.

I like it. I don't $50k like it at all. Colour code a 540i, add wheels and suspension and have change from 25k?

A yellow E36 Z3. So what? So this is a factory-built V12 Z3, an official exercise produced using an 850 engine to show the capacity of the Z3 engine bay.

I'd not checked for that. Suggests the 4-pot could have a rearwards weight (im)balance.

Probably very nicely! Less power than the bigger 6s, or course, but possibly a better weight distribution.

N46B20O1 was used in the 2005-2008 E85 Z4 2.0i.