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Olaf

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Posts posted by Olaf


  1. On 12/21/2022 at 2:08 PM, jon dee said:

    Purchased item via TM; picked up in Auckland Monday and delivered to me in Wellington suburbia midday Wednesday. Tracking link provided by TM indicates it was carried by Aramex. Seems that Aramex could be the default carrier if the seller uses the "Book a Courier" service provided by TM. Sorry to be the bearer of good news and spoil a decent rant :D 

    not at all.  Aramex completed the same totally useless service on my most recent parts order; a week in-country, UPS declare it's delayed, then it shows up without any update to tracking.  Useless.  You're just lucky it would seem.

    • Like 2

  2. On 12/1/2022 at 7:11 PM, Spinner99 said:

    FCP care package, took 5 days to get from New York to Auckland, who do the genius's at UPS in Auckland decide to give it to to make the last 600km to Wellington?  Aramex.   

    happened to me, took 10 days for Aramex to get to Welly, lost my request (Via UPS) to call me to collect from depot, delivered and left by my mailbox (no authority to leave), box damaged.

    Aramex are the worst courier company I've encountered in any country.  Rebranding from Fastway has not improved anything.

    #complaintoUPS

    I said "Had I known UPS would assign my parcel to Aramex I'd have requested my vendor use another carrier"

     

    • Haha 1

  3. 1 hour ago, Cammsport said:

    What's everyone's consensus on mounting exterior panels? I've used 3M auto tape before but I worry it eats into the paint. I've seen @Olafpost about sealent/windscreen glue. What's everyone's thoughts? I don't want anything too permanent as my mind changes like the weather. Definitely not keen on drilling through the boot lid. 

    3M tape is bloody brilliant for mounting number plates, monsoon shields etc… I’d use it happily for body parts.  It’s not coming off in a hurry so you’ll not see paint damage unless you cause it by removing the panel 😀

    edit: oh and my use of windscreen sealant wasn’t ideal for the spoiler - that was more about keeping water out.  Good hints on my thread follow.

    next time I’ll be using a non-drilled lid, and non-penetrative fixings.

    😀

    • Thanks 1

  4. On 9/5/2022 at 8:20 AM, Vass said:

    FOR SALE signs in front of houses. House gets sold, some f**ker drives all the way out to slap a big red SOLD sign on it and leaves the bloody thing sitting there for another 3 months. Yes well done, you've sold a house. It served its purpose. Take your shitty sign and f**k straight off. Tempted to start setting them on fire.

    quietly take them home.  they're excellent as insulation when you're working on your car, particularly in winter.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  5. I have Apple TV 4k on both TVs, and Amazon Fire TV 4k on both TVs.  In both cases, the boxes outperform the built-in TV apps for picture and sound (TV is the latest sh*t-hot LG G2 65" from which I should rightly expect stellar performance, or a 3 yr old Sony that is a UI nightmare with decent picture, don't ask me about apps on it).  The Amazon box is marginally better (than the ATV) on some content, it's got more grunt in the hardware.  I have no issues with the Apple TV.  It plays stuff easily from my NAS, as well as the apps that I use like numerous News apps, AppleTV+, Disney, Netflix.    Seems the only people having issues with Apple are folks that expect to be needed under the hood to make things work.  As soon as one accepts there's rarely any need to roll one's sleeves up with Apple, life is a great deal easier.  It just works.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  6. Pre-Purchase Inspection by someone who *knows* the e60 M5 is essential. 

    There are Autosure discounts as member of BMW Car Club NZ, not sure about anything offered by Bimmersport?  You'll have to be cautious about year of manufacture, you could find yourself outside of MBI coverage.

    The e60 M5 is a very special car, very rewarding to drive.  Buy carefully, it could be the difference between very very expensive, or just expensive maintenance.

    FWIW I was spending "more than a few k a year in maintenance" on my 545i... with an e60 M5 you're at the High Roller's table!  You could buy my 545i, spark the joy, and your accountant would be happy too and cash in your pocket  Food for thought.

    Welcome to Bimmersport!

    PS:  mostly made of Aluminium, so not scared of water and not generally plagued by rust (unless a badly executed panel repair).  The e60 (all drivetrains) likes to be cared-for, water is your enemy if drains are blocked and can kill a car with many of the computer modules being easily drowned.  Regular routine maintenance reduces that risk significantly.

    • Like 2

  7. oh and re your suspension refresh, can't go wrong with Lemforder.

    Shocks and Springs, there's a whole 'nother wormhole.  Why not just go with Sachs OE Msport, and the existing Msport springs if they're still good?  With everything else sorted (you're being thorough on bushes, rods, arms etc) it'll ride and handle like new, and certainly nothing at all like most of the flogged-out e36s around (particularly those that have had just shocks, or just shocks and springs, and maybe a peppering of poly bushing because still baggy...) I'll get me coat then!

    • Like 2

  8. At the end of the day it's your money, spend it how you like.  Stockmarket investments, reduce your debt, take your family on holiday, Hookers & Blow, a project car that you'll never realise the money you spent on it should you or your family need to sell to settle your estate.., it's all up to you and nobody should  presume to give you advice.

    Except for the bit about driving it unrego'd unwof'd uninsured.  You play the odds and won't even have a holiday t-shirt or a sore knob & hangover to show for it if they don't fall your way, for want of a $500 flat-deck ride, and you could have $50k+ of debt for the damages.  Madness!

    Good luck with your decision making, a great first world problem to have.


  9. 31 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    I dont recall ever seeing a E46 323i for sale. 3.15 is very rare\sort after according to KBM, no surprises there.

    Yeah going into 2.93, makes the most sense and not really much to choose from  

    PFL 323i and 328i.  LCI 320i, 325i, 330i.

    Fond memories driving a colleague’s near-new e46 323i on the M40 into London in ‘99 in torrential rain.  I thought ‘this chassis is as Top Gear and the motoring comics described it at launch.  What a sorted car.’

    • Like 1

  10. 1 hour ago, Vass said:

    Cheapest I found just now is around $500 before shipping from Spareto for all four. Not sure I'd call it cheap but yeah, fair point, worth doing now as it's a bastard to get to later on. Might look into omitting the post-cats though as alluded above.

    [snip]

    Fair point on the lack of bite, will take that on board. The clean freak in me is still a bit stubborn and refuses to be swayed by that though. How big a difference is it actually? Like is it something you just get used to over time and learn to press the pedal harder, or did you genuinely feel unsafe in certain situations / have had a few close calls? Definitely don't want to be compromising safety but if it's 10-20% difference I could probably live with that. Don't see myself pushing the limits too hard anyway.

    Just read up some reviews on the HPS. Quite a few people reporting terrible noise and squealing, not even too long after installing. Plus they look to be twice the price. Will do a bit more digging.

    Fair point. All those alternatives would seemingly work out to less than $300 though so worth a consideration. Again it's a give and take as to what degree would they harshen up the steering feedback...

    I can't remember where I bought mine from FCP, Amazon, Rockauto, Schmeidmann. ISTR around $400 at the time.

    If HPS are found noisy, ("terrible noise and squealing"), they didn't bed them in correctly (Read: suffering from stupidity).  Have a read of my e30 project thread - I followed the Hawk Performance Bed-in procedure for the pads, and the Zimmermann bed-in procedure for my (new) rotors, and they're quiet and work brilliantly.  Same with e60, except I put them on with new Genuine BMW rotors.  

    About the Akebonos:  "would not recommend" should do you.  That morning that you've not applied them a few times, and then need to stop in a hurry will be your moment of regret.  I'd recommend ATE or Textar and an Auto Glym wheel brush instead of the Akebonos, if you're not convinced by Hawk HPS.  Amazon often have competitive pricing on Hawk HPS.

    • Like 1

  11. Akebono Ceramic:  very little dust and they last FOREVER.  Literally.  Mine have been on about 9 years, ~90k kms, same rotors, still tons of meat on the pads, and the slotted rotors are wearing very sparingly.   Downside is they have no initial bite like OE Textar/ATE etc, and they need to be warm.    Would not buy again, would not recommend.  Choose stopping over cleanliness!
    Just buy the Hawk HPS and be done with it.  Reasonsable dust (nothing like OE), great braking performance.

    In fact - next time, assuming my car retains M54B25, I'd just put Hawk HPS pads on with braided lines and wouldn't bother with the 330 brake upgrade, it's unwarranted.  In your case though, going with B30 I think the 330 brake setup is a wise precaution.  The HPS are great for street use, I hve them on my e60 and e30.

    Steering Coupling:  Go genuine.  It'll last another 15-18 years, and you'll have no issues with increased NVH.   Why wouldn't ya?

    Sensors:  VNE are excellent. ISTR it was VNE came off my e60 when exhaust cam sensors were replaced.

    O2 Sensors:  I replaced all four, it purrs like a kitten now.  Bosch.  Discussed this with a BMW Master Tech (after I'd done it) and recounted what a difference it made to the running, responsiveness, and fuel economy;, he concurred and wondered why more people didn't do this.    Again, why wouldn't ya?  They're not expensive, and they're part of the DME control.

    Power Steering Pump LF20:  Your car was spec'd with it, why wouldn't you continue with it?  Overthinking - quite possibly.  New or a good used unit (most have the same issues).  @Autoglym you've some e46 Power Steering experience, what do you recommend?  Was it the LF30 you found painful?

    HTH

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1

  12. I used reinforcement plates because they were available, factory part, seemed like a good idea - I thought "oh if the factory are making these and they're readily available, must be mitigating a risk?  I'll have some of them."  I think the ones I used for the rear weren't factory.  I used Meyle HD rear shock mounts, and I think lemforder everywhere else (though I used Meyle HD for wishbones and front LCA bushings).  HTH.


  13. @Vass There's *definitely* different springs for 4 and 6 cyl, Sedan, Coupe, Convertible, Touring.  Touring rear springs need a bit more beef, and Convertibles a bit more again - counteracting the extra weight.

    You can get three or four different sizes of spring pads.  Mine's on stock springs but one broke; I bought a pair from a wrecker but he sent 4 cyl coupe springs so it was too low at rear.  I found a pair with Orange tags (wagon standard) from a knowlegdable user on here, they've been good but have sagged a little, unsurprising as the car is 20 years old now and one assumes the springs are around that age.  The big improvement was the Msport ARBs - 24 and 19 (from memory?) and the style 194's - you get 20mm extra track with 245/40R17 at the back over the stock Msport rims... it really flattened it out and way less input from steering wheel for curves at touring speeds.  Still you've got those awesome rims, so 18" lushness.

    I've replaced rear trailing arm bushes, I forget it we did subframe as well.  It's not a car you need poly bushes (anywhere) for IMHO.  

    Re springs, @adro reminded me a while ago that Stretten - Mr M539 on youtube - mentioned that Msport equivalent springs he used on Project Cologne (his e46 touring).  I think they're reasonably priced sourced from Rock Auto.  I think I'd rather have these than my standard go-to H&R Sportsprings.

    HTH

    • Like 1

  14. It's looking mighty fine these days!!!

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    I drove Mini-Me to get these photos, it'd been nearly two years since I last drove it.  I know I've said it before, but it's really come further than the last time.  It's a really pleasant place to be, the M42 is great, the auto is sweet - changing down automatically, never hunting, shifting quickly without jerkiness - and easy to drive, the suspension is just right for stock ride height, roll is minimal, brakes are very good... The stereo works well, (showing my my speakers are a bit knackered!), it's a lovely car to drive.   

     

    You're reminded you're driving a 34 year-old car that has no rattles or clunks, and is tight and quiet.  You just don't find that in Toyotas with over 200k kms on them.

    • Like 1
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