Mad_Max

So to add to the confusion over this one, today I have: Verified there is water flow from the expansion tank through the heater core and back out, so that's not blocked. Found it was missing a thermostat inside the airbox (part #11 here), have refitted from another 325I Removed thermostat and replaced with a different one in case the other one was actually faulty Removed and rechecked the water pump in case it decided to break yesterday (Murphy's Law) Bled the system countless times to no avail When running, the bottom radiator hose remains cold for what I'd say would be an extremely long time. All 3 hoses to the heater valve are quite cool to the touch, there is no blockage but I'm suspecting there's also no flow. So water pump, thermostat, heater valve and core are all ok, I'm now thinking either the radiator is blocked, or there's a blockage in the head or block somewhere that's stopping water flow as there is not even a steady trickle from the radiator into the expansion tank. Will try changing radiators if I get time tomorrow, see if that changes anything. Starting to run out of places to look now.

Fair call, I understand your point.

I've never been told that one before, is there a theory behind it? Just asking out of curiosity, not a criticism.

I paid about $30 for a kit on TradeMe with all the fittings you'll need to test most cars and it seems pretty accurate. Most important though, you need to know what to look for and how to test it. Should always do the test on a warm motor whenever possible, and you're looking for more than about a 5 to 10% variance across the cylinders, don't get too hung up on overall numbers (unless they are really low across the board). If you have a cylinder or two that are lower, drop about half a tablespoon of fresh oil down the plug hole of the offending cylinders, crank the motor over a couple of times then retest. If the compression rises on them, you have an issue with the lower end (block or piston rings) causing the lower compression, if it stays pretty much the same the issue lies in the top (head, gasket, valves etc).

Hi Allan, sorry didn't see your post appear (was typing my reply above)...... not sure if it's an import, though would probably pay to remove all the hoses and flush them, see if there's a blockage anywhere there - that would explain it alright, and would be easy enough to swap another hose onto it. Will look into that more tomorrow, thanks

I didn't think of that tonight, was getting late (and me frustrated after mucking around with heater valves to ensure they are working properly). I did check the other day (when it had a suspect valve in it) and the one from the back of the head to the bottom of the valve was lukewarm, the hoses from the valve to the heater core were cold - but that valve turned out to be suspect and I can't guarantee it wasn't stuck closed. Am assuming it's a lack of water flow causing it. I've also checked the basics (no water in the oil, or oil in the water, car runs too smooth to have dropped two cylinders, no signs of cracked head or blown head gasket, etc), if I can't get the heater sorted might just end up scrapping it and concentrating on repairing the Alpina instead (which coincidentally also has a water leak, determined where that was today, not a hard fix in theory).

So I picked up a 94 325i coupe the other weekend, auto with M50B25TU. Told it supposedly had a cracked head as it was overheating when driven, but didn't overheat while idling. Got it home, checked the water pump, that was all good. Thermostat in two pieces, so replaced that. So since then, the motor itself is running great, temp is normal. Problem is I can't get the heater to work. Bled the system, several times. No air bubbles. Have confirmed heater valve opens and closes properly (have tried 3 separate valves as well), no change. Removed and flushed the heater core, so no blockage. And yes the little round dial below the centre vent is set to hot. Any new suggestions on where best to start looking? I've never had this problem before, heater isn't even lukewarm. Thinking to pull the heater core again tomorrow to see if it's even getting coolant flow, to make sure water is circulating through the head.

What area are you in? Or how far woyld you want to travel? I've got a 94 325i sedan no motor or running gear. Body straight, paint faded, no obvious rust, all glass complete and can supply a lot of other parts. And have got live plates and tags for a 96 328i if you wanna have a chat and see if we can work something out.

Never mind..... sorry completely misread your post

Will have more than one here, message me tomorrow and I'll go grab one, yours for the cost of shipping.

Not that hard to change if you can find a set, EWS becomes the only issue I'm aware of but you can change the transponder chip in your key into the newer one. Will see if I can get you a set of locks and a key, gotta raid an E36 this weekend for some other parts. If not I'm sure one of the sponsors on here can hook you up with a set.

If it's cranking but not starting I'd suggest either it's not getting fuel or spark, one of the two. Potentially crank or cam angle sensor has died but if the alarm is the only variable in this (as indicated, you got nothing until inputting a code) I'd look more at that. My experience, if it was the EWS it wouldn't crank, however without knowing how the alarm is tied in, it may still also be the alarm itself causing the issue. Any ideas on how the alarm kills the car? Does it have a feed to the ignition or fuel circuits? Is there any way you know of to completely override the alarm to see if it'll start (like a valet mode)?

Oh and this is the original SATANZ hahaha

Ok so a few pics of the current state, apologies for the poor quality (and disgustingly unruly garage at the moment)... will try and keep this updated as I make progress. Still making a list of things to do/fix/swap, so far: Replace D/S taillight and front indicator Replace PS foglight Dents repaired Repaint worst areas for now (e.g. spoiler, marks on DS) Swap steering wheel with sedan Swap cluster fascia with sedan Replace rear shocks (have a spare set here) Replace rotors and calipers Swap mags with the sedan - maybe. Haven't decided yet. Either way one car will need two new tyres. Swap centre console with sedan New radiator cap New battery (will charge the existing one first but think it's dead) Replace bonnet struts Replace DS wing mirror New oil, filter, coolant etc. Convert to manual (swap from the sedan, put sedan back to auto) Leather interior (have a local lead on that already hehehe) with heated seats M50 manifold swap from sedan Strut brace from sedan Lowered using sedan springs maybe...... will think about that one Front LCA and offset bush swap with sedan CAI from sedan Hood lining needs repaired/replaced OBC and heater swap from the sedan Exhaust swap from the sedan New water pump, thermostat and housing New belt tensioners Then I think it might be ready to get back on the road..... just a few little things to sort out for now lol.

Lol same problem I had...... except I was stuck, so managed to splice and solder 3 new wires from the plug to the sensor..... and it's still holding to this day.......

Ok so picked up a new toy on the weekend...... 1995 E36 328i coupe. Needs a couple of minor things for a wof (fog lights, rhf indicator, rh tail light), and reg is on hold. The good: 153,000k's, motor is stronger than my sedan (much stronger) Box is good as well Pass side is dead straight Interior is reasonable given it's age, just the usual problems Has a couple of oddball things I've never seen before The bad: Auto (well for the moment hehehe) Drivers side needs some minor repairs after a bull tried to mate with it (yes, that is actually what happened, the hoof marks on the bonnet are proof of it!) Hood lining sagging Did I mention auto? Tragic aftermarket "sports exhaust" mod that the previous owner paid decent money for Overall needs a good clean up Then again, for $800 you can't expect perfection hehehe. So the game plan is to rape the sedan of all the goodies (manual, M50 manifold and modified exhaust, suspension bushes etc) and build the coupe up into something a lot better. Debating if I'll keep it the original colour or repaint it something different.... but that can wait for now. First things first is to get it back on the roads. Oh and had to let the neighbourhood know I had a new toy...... I'll update as I go, think OCD is about to kick in and this may spend months in the garage while I go broke getting it back to perfection...........

I had the same issue with my car, found out through lots of research when one goes, the other usually goes, so best to replace both cam and crank sensors at the same time. Car will run with just the crank sensor working but won't run without it. Interestingly enough, they also both throw the same fault codes in INPA, i.e. failed crank sensor can show as a failed cam sensor when checking fault codes.

Hey guys and girls, About to make up some adaptor plates for those fitting an M50 manifold to an E36, and thought I'd make a few spares in case anyone here wants them? They are hand made so don't expect perfection, however you don't see them and they do work well, easy to install etc - I'm running one on mine now without any problems. If there's any interest let me know, plan on making about 5 to start with but can make more easily.

I've been in contact, just waiting to talk to Toast about it and it'll probably be gone sorry

E30 box and everything might be gone but know of another Getrag box that might be up for grabs shortly, will find out what bits he's got and let you know.

If you don't mind shipping or get stuck, let me know. Think I can get one down here and would probably be a reasonable price given it's gotta be shipped. I'll check tomorrow make sure the guy still has one and see what he says.

If it doesn't sell I might be interested, let me know how you get on.

Interesting.... I've never had a problem with a helicoil before, both the timesert and helicoils do the same thing, can you tell me what the difference is between the two? Either way, definitely repairable.

If it has, I might be able to get you one, will have the hydraulic lines etc. Only thing you'd need to source would be a new clutch as this one is quite worn. If it's to go in an E30 I can get the pedal box as well. Guy wants $600 for it all up plus shipping ex Invercargill.

That's what she said last night too!! >.< Will get in touch with the guy and let you know how many inches he can spare lol.