Mad_Max

No worries, I've got a few bits and pieces down here if you ever get stuck ?.

I've got one from a 2001 E39 528I sedan if that's any good? Different part numbers and HW/SW versions but may work fine. Let me know and I'll pull it out, can probably get it away to you tomorrow.

Good information to have. I've got an M20B25 complete so depending on which reg you need I may be able to help out.

Sadly, yes. She's a complete loss

From what I believe it's an LTW wing on high risers. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1593277-The-definitive-E36-LTW-Spoiler-Replica-Thread a little bit of info that may or may not be accurate. And FWIW there is one silver E36 sedan running around town with an LTW wing on it........

If you're stuck and want to keep it drums, I can get the rear drums off my Compact for you. They were working perfectly when the car "fell" off the road, so it's gonna get scrapped for parts anyway.

Yes, suspected as much - thanks for confirming for me ? Yes, definitely worth checking everything is working right, and the system has the right inputs. Yeah sucks when that happens, he may have never resolved it. Even worse when they come back and tell you it's fixed but not how it was fixed ? Ok cool, thanks for the heads up on that, will look into Rheingold - had heard the name thrown around but never checked it out.

Did have INPA and EDIABAS running on this computer, really should get them back up and running and scan the car - they should show any faults, shouldn't they? Yes good idea, I didn't think of that. Clear them and all previous fault codes, then see what new faults pop up - might shed some more light on the problem.

I'm sure there'll be an easy way to do it Adam, got a few different parts here if you wanna come measure and see what they'll do, see if something's near enough to a bolt on that'll work for you.

Yeah, was no problems with any of the fittings, everything lined up perfectly. Are you thinking about fluid flowing through the whole system as it should? It is possible a line may be kinked or pinched somewhere, as installation was finished off in a hurry. Would be worth checking the lines and cooler to see if I can see anything obvious. Battery was out of the car for a few days charging before everything was hooked up, as far as I know though these systems remember all the settings and fault codes etc even when the battery is disconnected.

I picked up an E39 535i reasonably cheaply knowing it needed a new auto. Tracked down and replaced the auto with the same 5HP-24 box, except the replacement one came from a 540i. Got the box in, everything back together. Car starts and goes into gear, however it isn't locking into gear, seems like it's slipping everywhere, and goes into failsafe mode pretty quickly - so it hasn't "solved" the issue. Not knowing a lot about auto's (and especially these ones), my first thought was low on fluid. Have been in contact with the guy I bought the box off, and he's mentioned he previously had the same issue with a 5HP-30 box he swapped, car ended up having to go to a dealer to get the box recoded to match the car - does anyone know if this is necessary? I did have a look at the ETK and (obviously) there's some electronics inside the box - would it be easier to swap the electronics over instead of recoding? Or any other potential things to check first? Given I'm in Invercargill and the nearest actual dealership would be Dunedin (who may not actually be able to do it anyway and may say Christchurch would be the nearest option), I'd rather not have to ship the car up and pay for a stealership if there may be other ways to sort this out. Any ideas/suggestions are most welcome at this stage - after wiping my other car out (and still getting messed around by the insurance company) I need to get this one sorted as soon as possible to get mobile again.

Good to hear it's all checked out for you, and given your comments it sounds like it is all as advertised, which is cool. And it sounds like you know what you're looking at as well. Hope to see future updates of this as you go along, and welcome to the forums - glad no one here has roasted you on your first post ???

Wasn't today, early Saturday evening I unwillingly took mine on a short offroad expedition...... Think it needs a bit of a wash and a polish to clean it back up ???

Just had a quick look at the ETK, it's listing the same part for E30 325I, all E36 models and E31's. So if an E36 one will work I'll have one sitting around somewhere. Easy enough to grab it and try it if you want, just have to get to storage.

Yep just done the same, something about this one doesn't add up. No close up of the speedo. Vin decoder lists a few things that the car doesn't have any more (but could've been changed at any time). Just have to watch out, especially down here. So many fakes trying to pass the fakes off as the real thing, you just have to know what to look for.

Does it matter what E36 it comes out of? As I'll have a few I can get, just have to get to storage ?

Go watch the episode. They will prove your theory completely wrong, as all the dents they put in the system were maybe 200mm from the heads. And like said previously, even they ruled out a lot of the changes due to time of day, oil and water temp in the motor etc. etc. Think you need to go do some more research before you keep trolling. Watch that episode then tell everyone here (especially the ones that know that sh*t) that they're wrong. Then give me all the all the calculations to explain how the cross sectional area of the pipe has been reduced. Plus all the gas flow cals that say it is going to be severely restricted.

Text me on 0212 934 166, I'd be keen to either try help ya fix it or buy the whole thing off you. I'm in Invers too so not hard to sort things out

Hey man, I'm keen, can pick up the same time as the rest of the stuff if that suits you? May end up having to buy a shipping container to put all this stuff in if it keeps going hahaha. Flick me a message if you're all good with that and I'll send the $$$ your way.

Just putting this out there if you're worried about having to dent pipes for clearance issues. Engine Masters on YouTube did an episode where they tested back to back dyno runs while denting the header tubing on a V8. They started with something like 550 - 600hp on the motor, then did some modifications to the pipes at random, resulting in denting or "crushing" the tubing. At the end of it, they lost 5 maybe 6hp with the damage they did - which they also said could've been put down to the time of day, different water/oil temps etc. etc. So the conclusion is that, if you have to crush a pipe somewhat to make it fit/clear, the difference in output is negligible. It's actually kind of interesting to watch because it almost destroys the whole theory around mandrel bent exhausts vs crush bent.

I'm assuming sedan? I have got one good one here in a car, hate to think what shipping would be worth or how to go about it. If you have no luck searching closer to home let me know and I'm sure we can sort something out.

Depending on what year it is and how nervous you are, I can always do it in Invers. Ex mechanic but sadly not qualified, over 4 years experience in one of Melbourne's best workshops who was a Euro specialist.

Commodore brake upgrade? Is that where you use an A frame to tow the latest Commodore around and the weight slows you down for every corner??

Try this link: http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=4171&mospid=47218&hg=23&fg=15 About halfway down the page it goes into the 260. Should give you a good starting point.

Andy you may know the answer to this - is the number the maximum rated torque the Getrag box should withstand? Eg a G220 would be 220NM, a G240 like the OP has would be 240NM and so on.