Mad_Max

Text me on 0212 934 166, I'd be keen to either try help ya fix it or buy the whole thing off you. I'm in Invers too so not hard to sort things out

Hey man, I'm keen, can pick up the same time as the rest of the stuff if that suits you? May end up having to buy a shipping container to put all this stuff in if it keeps going hahaha. Flick me a message if you're all good with that and I'll send the $$$ your way.

Just putting this out there if you're worried about having to dent pipes for clearance issues. Engine Masters on YouTube did an episode where they tested back to back dyno runs while denting the header tubing on a V8. They started with something like 550 - 600hp on the motor, then did some modifications to the pipes at random, resulting in denting or "crushing" the tubing. At the end of it, they lost 5 maybe 6hp with the damage they did - which they also said could've been put down to the time of day, different water/oil temps etc. etc. So the conclusion is that, if you have to crush a pipe somewhat to make it fit/clear, the difference in output is negligible. It's actually kind of interesting to watch because it almost destroys the whole theory around mandrel bent exhausts vs crush bent.

I'm assuming sedan? I have got one good one here in a car, hate to think what shipping would be worth or how to go about it. If you have no luck searching closer to home let me know and I'm sure we can sort something out.

Depending on what year it is and how nervous you are, I can always do it in Invers. Ex mechanic but sadly not qualified, over 4 years experience in one of Melbourne's best workshops who was a Euro specialist.

Commodore brake upgrade? Is that where you use an A frame to tow the latest Commodore around and the weight slows you down for every corner??

Try this link: http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=4171&mospid=47218&hg=23&fg=15 About halfway down the page it goes into the 260. Should give you a good starting point.

Andy you may know the answer to this - is the number the maximum rated torque the Getrag box should withstand? Eg a G220 would be 220NM, a G240 like the OP has would be 240NM and so on.

I'm pretty sure, after trying to fit a G240 box ex E30 320I into an E36 328I the only difference between the boxes was the bottom two bolt holes on the bell housing don't quite line up. I'm pretty sure you also have to do something with the thrust bearing, I can't remember but it might've been a specific year of 325I bearing. That's assuming he is using an M5X flywheel and clutch combo.

Forgot to mention too, if you're doing a manual conversion, track down a new diff. 3.15 or 2.93 gears will be what you want, unless you get the G240 box with proper overdrive. All other boxes have a 1:1 final drive gear so you'll be sitting around 3k rpm at 100kph with the original 3:46 diff ratio, which will knock a bit out of the economy.

I was heading to Christchurch for an end of year do for a client. The top one on my old 328I decided to suicide while I was going uphill at around 100k, large bang heard then you lose everything..... no power steering, no alternator but worst of all, no water pump. Really quick way to cook a motor and spend 4 1/2 hours stuck on the side of the road. And all because I got busy and thought I'd change it when I got back, something that would've taken 10 minutes with the right tools and a new pulley at home cost me plenty. So I now carry spares with me just in case lol.

Also check the tensioner pulleys because they have a tendency to explode.... ask me how I know this one.... Oh and the fan clutch can also give grief apparently.

I'm pretty sure there's a difference in overall length between the 4 and 6 cylinder driveshafts, so if you're putting it behind a 6 cylinder motor you'll need the 320I front half, if it's going behind a 4 cylinder you'll need one from a 318I. I'm hoping someone else on here who knows the E30's better can either confirm the above, or shoot me down in a ball of flames lol.

What car is it going into? I believe for an E30 you'll need a manual driveshaft ex E30, and from E36 it will need the manual driveshaft from an E36. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong.

Couldn't figure out why the brakes weren't right with a Compact I picked up not long ago.... Seriously though, to think someone was driving around with this, with a baby/young child in the car as well........ car was registered and warranted before it was impounded. Glad to say this is one less death trap on the road, it will not be driven ever again.

Just a hint for when you go to fit the new bushes, the mounting point on the control arm will be caked with many years of dirt and debris, I clean them down with fine sandpaper to get them nice and clean, and a lot smoother. This makes installation a lot easier. You could probably use a wire brush or something similar as well.

One of the members is looking for a Getrag box to suit an M20, his post can be found here, just made him aware of your post too so could work out for both of you.

Pretty much covered everything right there, the only other thing I can think of is the spigot bearing - there's two different sizes from memory. The difference is the diameter of the gearbox input shaft. There's a Getrag 260 for sale by a member in this post here and it's in Auckland, ex M20 - could be the way to go?

So it turns out that the bolt holding the cam angle sensor in position was loose. Tightened that up, checked everything, turned the key and it fired straight up, and has done every time since. So I suspect the cam angle sensor wasn't located correctly, causing the no start issue. Now I just have to get the damn thing to idle correctly, but that's another story.

Hi Andy, yes agree 100% it's very hard to diagnose with any main accuracy, seen many, many times where people give horribly wrong advice. I suspected crank angle sensor first off, swapped that with no improvement. Will be trying the cam angle sensor as well when I get a break - probably some time in the next few days. Will also clean the trigger wheel, see if that makes any difference. Have checked the intake boots as well as every other hose I can find to see if there's any holes, splits, tears etc. First thing i double checked was that everything to do with the ICV was reconnected properly, and it seems fine - the seal you mention seems to be nice and tight in the back of the manifold. I'm going to swap the AFM from the other M50B25 and see if that does anything. I replaced the oil cap as the original one had a shagged seal, so that's on tight, as is the dipstick. I haven't tried scanning it as I've never had any luck scanning OBDI cars, can never seem to be able to read the DME..... Might have to see if I can borrow a scanner that works.

It might pay to check the cv joints on the driveshaft, they may be making the clicking noise. Does the noise increase with engine revs or with the speed of the car? Just thinking that, if it is a constant noise that increases with road speed, it is more likely to be coming from the diff/output shafts. If you notice it changing relative to the engine speed/transmission output speed then it has to be trans or something forward of it.

Yeah fair call on that, managed to do the crank angle sensor without too much hassle so cam angle sensor shouldn't be too bad. Will give this a go and see what happens when I've got some spare time. Interesting, any thoughts or ideas what would cause the engine to flood? If it was a carb engine I can fully understand flooding being an issue and would be most likely culprit, but I've never seen a FI car flooding unless someone has messed with the fuel maps? Not knocking your suggestion at all, I'm wondering what would cause it.

Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking, cam sensor won't cause a no start issue, just bad running conditions. I'm going to try a new cam angle sensor and swap the fuel pump - the more I think about it, the more I suspect fuel pressure is a problem given the fact it will cough but not catch.

@Gabe79 is great to deal with, everything worked exactly as expected, and he went out of his way to get it done, I would have no worries dealing with him again.

One detail we are missing, I'm assuming it's an automatic Lol we've both made the same mistake - I've assumed it's an auto, and you've assumed manual....... one of us is right hahaha. Agree completely the guibo will not cause the whine. Does the whining noise sound anything like in this guy's video?