Mad_Max

I hear your point there, however your assumption is incorrect - AFAIK it's not a pirated version, this is a shareware/freeware version. I can't afford to run the risk of having pirated software on my work computer. And having developed things in the past, I do know the frustration of developing stuff only to get nothing for it. Fully agree with your points about it being cheap and about the developer, there is no argument there. And most freeware versions you can make a donation to the developer.

Pm sent. Thanks, will keep that in mind. And will have a good read at the rest of the tech stuff as well when I get to setting it up, much appreciated.

Fantastic, thanks, I'd say at a guess I got an incomplete version, as my file list looked nothing like that at all. So that may be the problem after all. If you've got the link that would be fantastic, I also have the Siemens MS41 flash tool now if you want a copy of that?

You're a legend, thanks heaps, really do appreciate that. I think mine is an installer version, in the process of downloading another version as well so will have a look at them both and try everything.

Yes, I can get a virtual drive set up and assign a letter to it, then change the settings in VMware Workstation 12 to tell it to load the ISO from that drive letter, and change the BIOS settings inside the VM to tell it to load from the virtual drive, but it just doesn't do it. It keeps defaulting to a network boot. Occasionally it has looked like it wanted to try but gives up saying it can't load the operating system...... starting to think it's a corrupt copy of EasyDIS, might have to start searching for another version me thinks

1. I'm not sure to be honest, I think it's 6.4.7? If you know how to check, let me know and I'll tell you the exact version. EDIABAS, INPA and NCS Expert all work fine, both on a virtual XP machine and my Win10 64 bit. 2. Yes, I did read that part was critical and ensured it was done. 3. Have followed the instructions given in the link above to the letter, and it doesn't seem to find the *.iso file to load the OS, hence why I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong. 4. I haven't gotten anywhere near any of this part yet to be honest, it's the first I've seen of that needing done so will keep it in mind, thanks for the tips! Basically I just can't seem to get the virtual machine to load the OS off an .iso file, no matter what I try, convinced it's a setting I've missed or something I'm doing wrong - or could be the copy of EasyDIS I got is no good.

So I'm having a few problems installing EasyDIS v44 on a virtual machine, hoping someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong? I can get the virtual machine set up and configured correctly (there's a few differences between the guide and the version of VM I'm using), and have been able to set up INPA, EDIABAS etc, and that's all working correctly. Following the guide found at http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1297683-How-to-install-DIS-w-EasyDIS-v44-step-by-step, I set up a new VM with the same settings, but for the life of me I cannot get it to install EasyDIS. Anyone have any pointers? I'm positive it's something I'm doing wrong but for the life of me cannot work it out

Pm me if you want (now I'm able to get back into the forums) as working through chip tuning mine (MS41), have most of the software here, and have also just done a manual conversion so in the process of reflashing the cluster to make the car think it's manual. There's a bit of a process but there's one key piece of software that will make your life easier.

Thanks Jon, will look into that a bit more and ask the seller some questions.

As far as tuning goes. if you've got an MS41 ECU (usually MS41.0, MS41.1 or MS41.2 for the E36's I believe, but could be a bit off with that info) that's more than capable of being tuned and reflashed. I would highly recommend getting someone who knows what they are doing and using a dyno to do it, I can easily talk them through the software that they'll need to read and reflash the ECU.

Yeah have been reading up on the procedure, doesn't seem too bad. Might see if I can hold off until I do the cams up as well. Sorry can't remember exactly what the code says (taken from INPA), it's to do with the Vanos piston jamming which research says is usually the seal has failed. I'll give it a few days then check the code again, let you know exactly what it says. Yes have been looking at full kits..... not sure if I trust the Ebay kits without knowing who their supplier is but will keep looking, thanks for the info.

So been getting the "vanos jammed" code quite a bit, so I'd say it's time to replace the seal. Does anyone know a good place to sort them from? Or anyone else looking at doing theirs so we can split the freight?

Well have spent the last few days tinkering away with the suspension, finally sorted out the rear as close as I can get it for now, and the front..... now sitting about 30mm lower than it was, debating if I want to go lower. But thinking for now replace the ball joints and bushes, get a wheel alignment and see how she goes. Also been chipping away at some other side projects, working through the tuning files bit by bit ti figure out how radical I want to go with it, so that's going to take a while.

Yes thinking I might drop the front another 30mm to 40mm, the rear I managed to drop a further 10mm last weekend and I'm happy with how it's sitting in the rear, so will look at the front when doing the ball joints. Yes had that thought too, thinking it might be time to redo the whole front end. Might just slap some cheap outer ball joints in it for now and start gathering parts, do the whole lot in one hit then get an alignment done and she should be like new again.

Just came across these, wonder how legal they'd be over here, instead of ball joints: http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=939/CA=254

Sorry Ron, I didn't clarify it properly - the front sits too high for my liking. The car itself is pretty much dead level all the way around, so I'm assuming the springs are a correct set - I'll confirm that when I go to do the ball joints and can get a good look at the fronts. It's just an optical illusion that the front is too high, ideally I'd love to drop it another 1 1/2 inches all round, might have to hunt down some new springs for it. But first things first, sort these ball joints out and go from there

Spent last night and today messing around with the rear suspension geometry, got the car sitting a bit lower now. Just taking as much camber out of the back as possible.

Pulled rear suspension apart to find out why DSR is bottoming out all the time...... only to find out springs on both sides have evidence of constant compression and next to no travel so now looking elsewhere for the cause of all of this.

At this stage, I'm happy with the rack that's in it, it seems to respond quick enough for now. The car is mostly street driven (with errrmmmm "spirited driving" I will add lol), so I dare say that rack will stay as is for now. Cool, thanks - definitely food for thought. The M3 top hats are probably the best way to go at the moment, then work on the rest. Having seen your comments regarding the front bar, personally myself I do prefer a stiffer setup, I have run it very well in previous cars and seems to suit my driving style, however that is something I will be looking into at some stage so will cross that bridge when I get to it. On a side note, I have had a good look at the springs, as there was always something odd about them...... H&R springs, 1" drop according to the part numbers. I have seen people comparing them to Eibach springs in terms of quality, though am kinda dubious about that. The rears seem to be compressed the whole time, which would explain why the rear feels like it has no suspension travel and bottoms out all the time....... and the front sits way too high lol.....

Yes that's what I'm thinking too, do the whole lot once and do it right. I need to clarify if it's the inners or the outers first, hopefully it's the outers, and will definitely be going for the HD units if it is. I have heard of using the offset bushes as well, something I am looking at doing as well. This will increase the castor angle, correct? And hence the improvement on turn in? Interesting comment re the sway bar links - I've heard good and bad things about that mod, depending on what the car is used for. Will keep researching it before making any changes though - it doesn't look like a hard modification to do later on though so will keep it in mind. Ideally I would love to take a bit of the negative camber out of it as it's very near the limit of tolerance (-1.8 degrees IIRC) with the car around normal ride height, and plans to drop it nearly 2 inches all round will cause a few headaches later on - I suspect the only real way is with aftermarket adjustable camber plates (which will require a cert).

Thanks John, will figure out what's what and give them a call, $140 each isn't a bad price at all.

Thanks Andy, I'll have to confirm which ball joints they are talking about - report just says the front lower ones, the inspector said he was getting sideways movement from them but I just had a look and can't get any movement from the outer joints, so he might've meant the inner ones - if so I'll be in touch re getting the arms.

Thanks Ron, it's the outer bushes I think, have to double check tomorrow. I decided after posting that to get off my arse and go and have a look, my outers are the ones that clip in so easy enough to change..... but now I'm thinking, if I'm going to do that, I may as well go OTT and change all the bushes and everything as well, rebuild the front end, given the way I drive this thing it'll only be a matter of time before more stuff starts failing hahaha.

So, went for a warrant today, passed everything except both front lower ball joints, which is to be expected given the age of the car. The question I have, is it worth trying to replace just the ball joint, or am I better off replacing the whole arm? I have heard the joints can be replaced, but it involves a 20 tonne shop press (which I don't have), so it may be easier just to replace the whole lower arm. And if I'm replacing the whole arm, is there an upgrade of sorts that can be done? If I'm going to the cost of replacing the whole arm, I'll be doing all the bushes etc, and eventually the car will be getting dropped at least 1 to 1.5 inches lower, so ideally an arm suited for that would be best. Any suggestions on possible options?

All my years as a mechanic, never once saw a car with washers on a flex plate or flywheel. If you replace the bolts, use loctite and torque to specs, and you should be good to go.