Secniv

Hey guys I’m looking for some lockdown inspiration to produce a tool to remove and replace the OE rtabs on the E36. I’ve got some threaded bar, nuts & large washers. Don’t have a socket big enough to sit on bracket or bush tho. Will end up hacking apart with drill and saws if I have to but then issue of install. May be able to get friend to make this up for me but challenge of getting it. Any ideas?

I’ll pass thanks anyway

Guess I’ll have to stick to just crossing 7&19

Have you been able to figure out how to reset oil service? Found some instructions re NT520 but doesn’t seem to apply to NT530 (OBDI anyway).

FCP Euro parts arrived this morning ?

No wear at this stage but it’s not right and realign once I change out the rtabs (will need to source the tool or have done). Thanks for the tip re Autolign. Are you referring to the parts supplier as I didn’t know they did alignments as well. Which branch do you use? Yeah I looked at changing out front strut mounts but cheapest OE I could find was US$310 +shipping and as originals had no play and bearings were smooth became a nice todo.

Excuse my ignorance but why would you need to disconnect the upstream sensors if the cats are removed and there’s no downstream sensors? Found this post Indicates possibility that it’s detrimental unplugging sensors.. what is the implication of just plugging them back in? Certainly when it’s cold car is sluggish but soon warms up and runs fine. I checked your Tastes like petrol site Kelvin and read up your swapping the tensioner for an upgraded S50B32. Would have thought it would last longer than 5 years but I will check to be certain cheers.

Well bugger me you’re right no sensors. Looks like I may have new sensor for sale ffs. Strangely the scan only showed an issue on cylinder 1-3 (sensor 1) and not 4-6. Is there any benefit adding them back in for performance, fuel consumption or emissions?

Every cloud has a silver lining.. mine is the time to do some detailing..Replaced M logo on boot. After 25 years of exposure a new MSport badge. cleaned underneath Deep cleaned and polished wheels also Kelvin will appreciate this I picked a 3 spoke up from pickapart pre lockdown and installed it. Not a MSport but $60 and reasonable condition will do for now. also replaced fuel filter that arrived

Haha that will explain the additional wiring here?

Since lockdown I have received via courier - Supercheap fuel filter (ordered before lockdown) - scanner adapter ex-Auck (delivered today) post lockdown - According to Fedex notification my FCP package ordered post lockdown will arrive today. I assume if the courier companies/drivers have the capacity they will continue to deliver (make money) god bless them ??

I have 3 BMWs so I ‘need’ a scanner right! Given the E30 and E36 are OBDI and the E60 is OBDII I needed a scanner that will cover both. I looked at finding an old laptop with serial port and setting up DIS etc but I prefer to just diagnose and wrench so went with plug n play. Enter the Foxwell NT530 plus serial adapter. Look at overseas but with shipping/GST price diff was negligible ($385+$65 for adapter) and I’m glad I did. Brought off BAT Tech Automotive and Greg has been really helpful getting me up and going. There was a delay with the adapter has it had to come out of China but he lent me one so I could start using sooner. Greg gave me some instructions for scanning OBDI and have only used on the E36 so far. GUIDE 1. plug the tool into the OBD diagnostic socket. 2. turn the ignition on [all lights show in the instrument cluster including engine and other warning lights] 3. start the engine [this wakes up the ECU’s] 4. if unable to start the engine, then ensure that an appropriate battery charger is connected effectively, and all chassis grounds are functional [i.e., it is earthed properly] ... jump start batteries are not necessarily as good as a means of voltage conditioning; as you must ensure the best voltages remain available during testing. This ensures that all modules are awake and functional and able to report. 5. once you start the testing please continue and do not interrupt the process Please note: if any ECU module has a fault in the system, then it may not communicate or report any PID [data stream]. Faults in ECU’s DO NOT necessarily clear if they are still faulty. In cases where the vehicle is also OBD2 compliant it is important to check for the communications with OBD2 data stream The E30 / E36 are biased toward OBD1 .... some E36 that have both types of OBD plugs may have data available from each plug [this is quite rare but cannot be overlooked]. So far I have been able to - reset airbag light (after swapping to later style wheel) - diagnose a fault with the oxygen sensor cyl1-3 (according to Fedex it’ll turn up today!) - the front brake pad sensor was unplugged so already paying for itself. Next I’ll actually read the manual and see if I can reset the oil service light and check the performance of the individual control modules.

I like lists. I particularly like making progress and ticking things off the list. Its gratifying to review the E36M3’s things to do list and seeing the progress I’ve made over the past 12 months. Suspension & Brakes Replace rear shocks with with Bilstein B6’s (matching Bilstein B6 struts front) ✅ H&R springs all round✅ Front subframe repair & reinforcement ✅ Replace control arm ball joints ✅ Replace control arm bushes ✅ Replace brake rotors and pads ✅ Replace front sway bar bushes & links ✅ Replace rear trailing arm bushes & links Clean & paint brake callipers & add MSport logo (in hand) Install rear sway bar links Purchase & install rtab limiters Engine & Drivetrain Check & replace spark plugs ✅ Upgrade oil pump & reinstall ✅ Replace big end rod bearings ✅ Repaint valve cover and replace gasket ✅ Service oil/fluids: engine oil & filter ✅gearbox, lsd diff Replace fuel regulator ✅, fuel pump ✅ Run diagnostics: check cold engine sluggishness ✅ Repair/replace faulty oxygen sensor cylinder 1-3 Tidy & detail engine bay Diagnose & repair engine rattle around 2k Check & replace gearbox mounts Check clutch incl. slaves Replace exhaust back box Exterior Mount front lip ✅ Replace tyres with Yokohama AD08Rs ✅ Source 2nd hand front bumper support brackets, highbeam covers ✅ Replace quarter light lower seals L&R ✅ Replace aftermkt cracked left front fog light with OE (match right)✅ Replace rear MSport boot badge ✅ Cut & polish boot lid Remove dents driver side roof, drivers side rear fender Cut & polish detail Replace exterior trim pieces Replace rear lights with clears (match fronts)? Replace front bonnet BMW badge Interior Install fire extinguisher (boot) ✅ Repair LH door card ✅ Replace steering wheel with 3 spoke ✅ fix catching plastic pin ✅ Install replacement glovebox ✅ Source & install footwell speaker covers ✅ Repair/Replace headlight switch ✅ E36 floor mats ✅ Replace boot gas struts ✅, replace stoppers Paint replacement door cards, re-trim and install Re-trim front seat inserts Re-glue rear cards Clean interior including deep clean carpet I have materials/resources to carryout some of the to do’s during lockdown but getting replacement parts eg. oxy sensor is problematic.

E36’s been running well and then strangely just died! Thankfully it was in my garage at the time!! Checked fuses first and #18 (15amp) had blown.. nice easy fix right.. put replacement in turned key to start and pop fuse went again. So at least narrowed down to fuel system. Tried a new fuel pump regulator as the existing looked original and a bit fried but still wouldn’t start. So I moved to the pump. Using a 12v battery to try and run pump directly but nothing.. dead. So with lockdown looming and needing a cool shopping trolley on the phone to Supercheap trade and the pump (fuel filter still in-transit) arrived Tuesday. Went with the Fuelmiser (a bit more expensive) as it supposedly has the OE VDO pump although without taking apart I couldn’t check. Anyway fired straight up ?. Will be checking my list of done and todo to keep me occupied when I’m not doing boring house r&m.

What happened to the white one for $38k?

A big test for the M3 weekend before last when I dropped my son off at Uni in Wellington. What a bonus that the rear seats drop down and if you remove the rear squab, the floor is flat and easily fitted all his gear in. Despite being the land of the long roadwork we were down in 6.5 hours in including stops for petrol (even treated it to $2.19 for 98 in Upper Atiamuri) and coffee. Car ran perfectly despite me being over sensitive to any knock or squeak ?. Coming back I left early Monday morning and to make the drive interesting went to visit family in the Hawke's Bay via the Rimutaka Hill. I couldn't get over how smooth the seal was and how glorious it was holding 3 gear up through the corners with the window down. Little did I know the best was yet to come turning right after Masterton and taking the back way on Rte 52. This is an entertaining stretch of road with little traffic. It does get a little hairy from Weber to Porangahou where the road has collapsed and the seal is broken for about 20ks. 'Followed' a new Hyundai Sportage through here which did remarkably well for a small SUV although with it's long travel suspension coped better with the broken road. Got back to Hamilton on the Tuesday with an extra 1500ks on the dial and the car ran faultlessly... phew. As a reward, plus I have been meaning to do it for a while, I replaced the rear quarter window lower seals this past weekend. They were cracked and brittle with numerous coats of polish discolouring them. Using plastic trim levers to get the old seals off (they use adhesive strips to glue them down) was a case of sliding the lever along underneath the seal lifting as you go. Using the flat tip of the level to scrape and some turps on a rag helped to clean off the old adhesive left behind together with the build up dirt and grim over the years. This is key to ensuring the new seal seats well and stays for in place another 25+ years.

Looking to borrow/hire trailing arm bushing tool to remove and press in new bushings. Also for other rear ball joints/bushes.

Not if I get there first as I’m back in the Hutt next week ?

Wow are they really that bad!? Maybe should wait for a F90.

Thanks Dave always a fountain of knowledge ?. I know what you mean I use reading glasses these days or zoom lol increased to original 2mb hopefully this helps. Ill check front strut mounts re orientation. Thought that might be the case re aftermkt arms. Tech said he had maxed out camber. I’ll take a look maybe bushes are worn. Would worn rtabs effect camber or toe?

Conveniently I had to visit a few sites around the Mighty Waikato approx 250ks of driving and best of all most of it was on secondary roads the highlight being Highway 22 from Onewhero coming out at Ngaruawahia. If you ever get the chance this is an entertaining drive although watch the odd off-camber corner and broken seal. I kept it between 2000 and 4000 rpm and it ran sweetly with no strange or ominous noises which I was keenly listening for (although air con progressively stopped cooling and hopefully just needs a recharge). The progressive H&R Springs with the Bilstein and Yoko Advance Neova set up was really controlled yet compliant and handled anything I (mid corner corrections ?) or the road through at it (although I wasn’t pushing too hard to be fair). Compared to the E30 with a ‘similar’ suspension setup the M3 with its torquey engine is a confident and refined drive whereas the E30 is a go kart that needs more revs and attention to keep it in the zone (imho). Before heading out I did get a wheel alignment. A guy at Top Town here did it who is into his E36’s so we had good chat after. The readings showed up some interesting numbers particularly camber up front and, camber and toe in the rear. Checking some of the other forums https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?995556-The-Definitive-Alignment-Guide-for-your-E36-M3 for a fast street setup I should have Front Camber: -2.0 to 2.5 deg (per side) Toe: 0.10 total toe (or 0.10 to 0.20 deg total toe in for mostly highway driving)Rear Camber: -1.5 to -2 deg (per side) Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)I should have So up front I’m way off. I didn’t take a before photo of the strut mount position and maybe I should have them set inboard rather than set back? With the rear obviously the left rear camber is not too far out and he had set it to max camber. Will new rear control arms sort this out? Obviously right toe is way too much and left needs a tweak. Any thoughts/ideas?

Started the long weekend early. Getting refurb’d struts and control arms back in was a challenge and required dropping the subframe some then using jack to compress springs and shocks. Getting steering rack back on steering shaft took a bit of trial and error. In the end holding the steering knuckle in place with a long screwdriver and using a rubber mallet to knock rack’s splined shaft worked. Installed new discs and pads. Was planning to paint callipers but can’t wait to have a drive again so will leave it for when I reupholster seats & cards. Made up a bush pressing tool and used kerosene to lubricate bush and arm. Passenger side was easier as the exhaust gets a bit in the way on the drivers side but was pretty straightforward and easier than expected. Back on all fours Before starting I disconnected ignition leads and removed plugs. Turned over 3x10secs and each time oil light went out as oil pressure built. Should have removed fuel pump relay so it didn’t flood. Reinstalled plugs/coils and it started.first pop so took for quick easy run around the block. Ran out of time so plan is to take it for a long easy drive maintaining revs between 2000 & 4000rpm to run the bearings in. Looking forward to just driving it for a while ?.

That’s a great chart thanks.. on the red side it’s all about operating viscosity right.. I understand with the lubrication of the supercharger on the B5 the 30 is definitely required.

Alpina specify “The correct engine oil for your B5 is CASTROL SLX 0W-30 / Castrol SLX Professional Longtec BMW LL01 SAE 0W-30.” Which seems to be hard to find locally or expensive.. I have been using Edge 5W-30 and reading Castrol’s description https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-viscosity-grades/0w-30.html “liquid engineered to flow like 0 Weight oil in winter temperatures, but to have the viscosity of a 30 Weight engine oil once full operating temperature has been achieved.” Given our winter temps (Hamilton and my garage anyway) very rarely if at all see sub 0 is a 0W ‘weight’ oil critical or necessary?

Stretching my time between family, work, the M3 project I was finally able to give the B5 my full attention today. Getting the valve cover off was pretty time consuming and involved removing the cabin air intake, fuel rail, moving heater hoses and electrical wiring then lifting and turning the cover in order to clear the sensors at the back valve train. I can’t get over how clean the valve train, camshafts and timing chains are despite 150000kms. Reinforces the service book history albeit in Japanese. Fussily I gave the cover a clean despite there being little residue inside and out. Replacing the front timing cover was straight forward once you have removed the vanos sensors. The BMW valve cover comes with the gasket as well as replacement rubber fasteners seals and the integrated bolt/seals. Everything is there except the sensor o-rings and spark plug tubes. I replaced the o-rings but the tubes were ok. Replacing the cover with the new gasket is the reverse although I did use gasket maker in the corners and ‘humps’. Lining the spark plus tubes up and seated was a bit fiddly but a deep breath and more patience gets you there. Once the cover was torqued down (15nm) I put the new spark plugs in followed by coils then fuel rail. I’ve put this side back together as much as possible while it’s fresh in my mind before starting the drivers side. Drivers side should be a lot easier as there isn’t as much plumbing and electrical wires to get in the way.. here’s hoping. Bit of good time management should have it back together next weekend if not before.