Funkyflynz

Thanks, yes it appears to be in good shape, but with everything apart im thinking it would make sense to replace it with a metal one and also do the circlip upgrade as well. Interesting that the plastic one seems to overlap….

Thanks mate. Let me take this opportunity to thank you for your contributions to BMW forums, ive come across a lot of your posts on here and the UK forum, its been a huge help. Much appreciated 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Interesting thread. Any chance of an update 7 years later? Lol

Hey all, just wondering if anyone has experience with the stop disk in the s50b32 vanos system? Im not sure if it needs to be replaced or where exactly it sits within the vano system, unfortunately when it came out i was a clown and didnt take a photo

Started on the vanos rebuild, man this s50b32 sure is more complicated than the s54. Anyway things seems to be going well, apart from this “stop disk” which im not 100% sure where it goes - doh! Any help wpuld be appreciated

From fcp euro.

Kaynes a knowledgeable dude, question on replacing the universal with the M3 CV, where did you source an M3 rear half driveshaft?

Im using nerptech offset rtabs. But the amount of toe adjustment you end up with will depend on your camber and how low your car is. I have 4mm total toe with -1deg camber currently and its very low. that kit looks the business, havent seen anything like that before, thanks for the link. Not sure in will be spending $2k on it but might be able to make something up perhaps.

Strange, ive had zero issues with my 450+ V8 using the stock E36 medium case driveshaft and diff. My concern is breakage (drifting on a 265 tyre) but so far its been fine, same driveshaft for over 12 track days with a 4.1:1 ratio gearset and 120-130kph wheel speeds. Is your centre hanger bearing ok? How about the bushings in the subframe and diff? The front bolt in the meduim case diff is weak and prone to breaking, have you checked that?

Hey all, The old touring cars series, BTCC for example had e36's running super low and obviously handling extremely well on track. Im interested to know how they managed to do this, esp in the rear, im running a low car and the first issue is camber, once you dial this out with adjustable lower arms you run into toe issues, specifically toe out with not enough adjustment left to dial it out, this necessitates offset rtab bushings and in my case modified toe buckets as well. However you are still limited . What i did next was raise the rear subframe - approx 10mm. this gave me a little more toe adjustment without affecting camber. Next step would be to go true coil over rear with adjustable top arms, this would address any toe/camber issues. However... (and this is what ive been getting to)..... Lowering will affect squat, in fact the more you lower the rear the more squat you induce. This due to the fact the front trailing arm pick up point remains in the same location. With more squat you get more geometry change thanks to more suspension sweep (under power) So how did the touring cars overcome this? Some secret sauce? any knowledge out there on reducing squat with a lowered trailing arm rear? Any help appreciated.

I would have to guess somewhere between 12-18k, big range sure, but at nearly 200,000km? any new owner is going to be worried about crossing the 200km threshold and incurring the depreciating hit that comes with Kiwis not liking high mileage cars.

I can only imagine how fun a 135i DCT car would be to punt around.

After a 2 year hiatus due to family things it was a mad 3 month scramble to get the drift e36 back together with the new gen4 6.0, ecu, wiring, gbox, clutch, exhaust etc etc. Had a few teething issues with the new cam/valve springs and cooling system but managed to get it up and running the day we need to head off for two days of drifting 😰 so loaded up and hoped for the best... and we got it, two days full noise and not a single issue, couldn't believe it lol. Now its time to dial in more rear grip (running a 265/35/18) and find a good solution to upgrade the rearend - diff/axles

Update - After i was unable to get the car running right it sat for a year while i got busy with other projects, however its back on the "to do" list and ive replaced a couple of coils and cleaned the MAF which made a difference, ECU still throwing MAF errors and there's a slight stumble so have ordered a new MAF. Also have an error that looks related to back pressure at the o2 sensor, the car still has the original mid section with the cats and at 300km theres a good chance they are clogged, so have a new Super sprint midsection to install. The Vano's is a bag of marbles as well, so Ive slowly been collecting parts for a full vanos rebuild and will kick that off shortly.

Hi, update for you- TPS didnt change anything, and the car sat for a year neglected (big sad face) but good news, im able to send some more time on it, ive replaced to coils that were faulting and cleaned the MAF, this made a huge difference, theres still a little stumble at times and the MAF is still throwing a fault code. Ive now ordered a new MAF. Interesting talking to a highly regarded BMW/Targa mechanic explaining what im seeing he said it could be a number of things but that a bad MAF is the most common cause of issues by far.

Did this end up selling Aaron?

Ive ordered a new tps and a vanos rebuild kit. Will update once ive tried done each

Thanks, will give that a try. I need to get on to INPA . Been putting it off as i prefer spanners 😂😂

Thanks, yes, it sounds like its from the vanos. Might be the typical vanos rattle but ive not heard it before. Have a vanos rebuild planned and part ls on the way. But a rattle should t be causing these flat spots.

Nice, let me know if you find a cheap setup 😉

Well I like to drive hard and have zero interest in driving a subpar badly neglected M3. If i could do the mods tomorrow i would but i cant so it will be driving the thing for a while before making em lol

Good to hear thanks, i had a long yarn with Kayne and was leaning towards 4.1. Im not planning family holidays away in it so for the odd weekend away happy to hear it sing. Running 17’s with 255/45 Catcams certainly seem to be a good option, the big decision will be what size, going big means shims under bucket which people seem to shy away from due to the additional work for shimming. Have you looked into sizing?

Hey team, have a weird issue. when idling... When idling the rpm will jump from 1200 (cold) down to 500, the car sounds like its labouring for a while (10-30sec) then jump back up to 1200. When hot it will drop down to 400. When driving...whilst driving the car hits flat spots randomly, it doesnt cough or splutter rather it just becomes unresponsive like there nothing there. Engine tone changes. Poking around i seem to have some noise coming from the vanos, not sure if this is normal or signs of an issue? Related or not? Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. IMG_5098.MOV IMG_5092.MOV

Finally back on the ground after replacing the fuel system, many thanks to @Toast for a set of blue top injectors, much appreciated. Also threw in a new set of plugs, 3 new coils and oil/filter change. Put some fresher rubber on a spare set of ds2 wheels and uploaded them. With that all done i was able to actually drive the car to get a feel for it. verdict? It has potential 😂. Immediately the factory diff ratio felt far too tall for me, the drivers seat is offset, the steering wheel far to big and it lacked the response of the s54, which i expected but thought it would still impress me on the top end. Shame. So whats next? First i need my motorsport license then we go for a wof. Ive spied a couple of oil leaks (oil cooler and ps hp line) which i need to tackle, i have a purple tag rack to go in (original was worn and thus replaced) and i need to sort this seat and steering wheel situation. Looking forward to getting this car performing how i want it to. Kayne Barry made a good start and it deserves to have some more love. If anyone has some cams for an S50b32 they arent using let me know 😅

Any update on how things are going mate?