E30kid

Interesting, hopefully I should just be able to setup the ECU to output accordingly but I'll remember this.

Small progress, subframe completely stripped and just awaiting being sent for stripping/powdercoating. Fitted first of the rear braided brake lines, and continued cleaning - need to find a good degreaser/cleaner for the wheel wells/bay! My springs are purple again at least though. More interestingly, pulled my cluster and changed the econometer face to a oil temperature gauge, and my tacho to a 8k redline face from a M3. From what I can read, the econometer is a result from the SI board processor calculating fuel usage by an equation of fuel injector duty and Vehicle speed input. By removing the input pin for Vehicle speed, and soldering the two pins together so they receive the same input, I should be able to program the ECU to run the gauge accordingly Fuel rail adapter turned up so I can remote mount a regulator, and Corrado rotors ordered through EBC so hopefully over the next week my RX7 calipers and new master arrive so I can get started on the front brakes.

Managed to score them second hand but not actually run earlier in the year, they certainly look the part and seem pretty well made. I've seen the odd set in the wild at this point so doesn't seem to be anything surprising.

Better late than never, but here's a foray into the next major step in my E30 I began last week - the drivetrain! This has been on the cards for a few years, but I finally settled on what I want to do with my 300,000km M20B25 and work has begun, have slowly been sourcing parts for it over the last year or so. The juicy bits are basically a 2.8 M52 crank to build a stroker from the original b25, coupled with custom pistons further pushing to a 2.9L displacement, with RHD ITBs, hotter cam and Link Fury to be the brains of the thing. Loads of other bits along the way naturally! Last week I managed to hire a couple of bros to pull the engine, win win because I got free labour and they got to learn cars without the pain and expense of projects themselves. During the week I tore down the engine to get it ready to take it down to the engine shop for boring. Good to see that the weld on the head from the infamous M20 crack two years ago held strong with all looking in order. Remarkable how little wear in the bottom end bearings on a 300km motor! Local engineering shop completed my crank spacer too so the b28 crank should drop straight in now. Todays agenda was removing the rear subframe, as to clean it up/blast/paint and re-bush as I sourced new Powerflex bushes to go in. Tomorrow I'll take stock of exactly what I need to prep and take for sand/vapour blasting and paint prep and tidy the engine bay up and remove the brake master/booster in lieu of the replacements currently in freight.

Yeah it is the same conversion, I've got calipers on order from the States currently, just everyone seems to be out stock/NLA on the adapter brackets. I found a 3D file so I've got someone printing them in the idea that I can get them replicated by a machinist locally worst case.

Extremely unlikely, but does anyone have any caliper adapters for fitting Mazda twin pot calipers onto E30 hubs? Or have measurements worst case. Cheers

Hi all, At our work absolutely stumped with an E70 X5 parking brake fault. Have replaced the entire park brake assembly as one cable end was buggered. New unit from a euro parts shop not genuine but supposedly good aftermarket. That unit worked, until it started making a screeching noise as the gears inside would try activate after setting it to on. It got more consistent and then started disengaging the brake randomly. I have since had it warrantied. Fitted the new unit, worked straight away, however unable to program in or out of workshop mode/initial operation - get error saying faulty module or supply voltage. Can only run bedding in mode. No actual fault codes, voltage at connector seemed fine a few weeks back. Replacement unit has since started making noise again, and picking and choosing when to engage but definitely engages when it tries. Adjusted shoes several times. Clamping force in live data shows -35N approx, this to me tells me it's not reading engagement correctly and retrying? Still no fault codes. I can't help but thinking it's a programming fault but I can't complete it with either ISTA or my Launch. Anyone had anything remotely similar?

Hey all, Selling my S50 ITBs, come with airbox and fuel rail as pictured. No intake boot. Purchased a few months prior to adapt to my M20, however upon attempting to design an adapter the thermostat won't clear. Also listed on Trademe if that's easier. Asking $2k, and located in Te Awamutu outside of Hamilton. Cheers

Nah there's not, tested by running the infrared straight after pairing both or one and that still works. It's very odd

Finally got around to checking this. Wiring is definitely correct. Just tried repairing again and it locks and unlocks in the pairing process so it definitely picks it up, just doesn't do anything after the fact. IIRC I even had voltage coming down the signal line when I last checked upon key operation, just no output from the GM5 other than with the infrared key.

Bump as starter/alternator/PS pump and manifold removed and now listed on TM. Will entertain any offers. Still have A/C pump/OFH/torque converter and subframe as well. https://www.trademe.co.nz/4826188997

Didn't unwind the valvetronic solenoid before removing it, writing the engine off in the process. I know for next time!

Hi all, Have a parts motor from a 2007 130i at 130kms. Has a snapped retainer for the valvetronic eccentric shaft, snapped above an oil gallery so head is likely toast unless you can weld alloy well. Motor was a mint runner until a job went awry, so everything works, is currently sitting on the subframe so everything is attached aside from a transmission. Will likely keep a couple of pulleys as pretty sure the replacement motor needs one, however just ask whatever your after and I'll advise.

100 a pair for tails, have to check on the centre console don't think I have any wind up ones. Might have a sill trim, need to check!

50 a pair, have quite a few so can dig through and find the best, I believe they're all unpainted from memory

Not fully sure on what a fair price is. I guess considering the lights/computers and rear quarter windows $1000 for the lot? Happy to discuss further

Old thread I know, but wondering if anyone can assist with my touring. A few years ago I setup some Ebay RF diamond keys. EWS all programmed easily, went to fit the aerial only to find the same unit already installed in the tailgate of my Jap 2000 touring. Proceeded to pair the keys and they all cycled locks indicated they're paired, however they won't do anything lock related other than the original infrared key, which I just proceeded with as at least I had several keys to start it. Had a look through NCSdummy and didn't see anything in the options list, do I need to add to the VO to get it to work? Cheers

Trying to clear out a few cars worth of spares from our shed. Largely various 320 Have absolutely all sorts, lights to ECUs to trims doors etc etc. Heaps of spare B20 engine parts all in varying states of repair, would prefer to clear out everything to be used rather than scrapped. No manual parts, and not many sedan or interior parts either as I am keeping spares for mine. Most parts have been in sheds for 20 years so varying conditions and as is. Wanting to clear so happy to just give out bits and bobs to anyone who collects. Pickup in The Awamutu for anything substantial, welcome to come have a browse through. For posts sake $75 each for ECUs, but please ask/offer and I'll have a look for anything.

Hi everyone, Currently running out of ideas chasing a lighting problem on my wagon. I retrofitted single OEM HID lights a few years back, and have a flickering issue that's gotten progressively worse, often one light flickering at a time but sometimes both. LED halos wired into park lights but disconnected these to confirm no relation. Been through almost all common faults, checked all lights plugs/grounds across the car. Replaced both bulbs, both ballasts and one igniter. Checked wiring in lights that I could see and no common issues like the Bi-Xenon units. Coding has been completed, even swapped LCMs to verify. Supply voltage into LCM is solid, but output voltage drops outside operating range causing the flicker. Continuity checked for shorts to ground on all headlight wires and nothing untoward, disconnected all other lights consecutively while testing - still present. Is there a harness connector/junction between the LCM and lights I can check? I have fault codes for turn signal and main beam short to ground but I can't find an obvious short, also the issue is amplified over bumps suggesting a short or loose connection but I cannot for the life of me find one. I'm even considering finding another set of complete lights to rule the whole units out. Any ideas? Cheers! IMG20240127193156.heic

They look correct, I'll see if anyone has one local first otherwise it's a good shout

Hi all, after a replacement sump plug for an E12 520, it's the early plug that was on m10/m20 and used across e9/12 and maybe E24? Just checking before I try the dealer as the last one was ex Singapore. As per pic. Cheers!

Ooop sorry team, copy pasted and didn't realise it didn't bring that across. Updated now.

Updated with photos!

Hey team, selling my E36 328i Coupe. A very good example of how good these cars can look, this one is largely original other than some Halos, sounds and H&R springs. While it is Auto, factory M-Sport, current WoF/Reg. I've spent a fair amount of time on the little things that plague these cars. Accidentally been my daily while other cars and getting work done, so 250XXXkms, however I can tell this has had a good service history. Has been on several roadtrips over the north island in the last 6 months and not missed a beat. Serviced twice in the two years I've had it, last in December, and even Cabin filter changed in 2022. Cooling System overhauled last year - All OEM parts used and entirely preemptive. Rocker cover replaced last year - no oil leaks All lights/screens working inside, including all pixels on OBC and cluster. Headlining recently done. Doorcards recently refurbished by myself, not absolutely perfect but still one of the better sets. Engine running perfectly, no vacuum leaks or misfiring. Doesn't use fluids. Air Conditioning extremely cold! All windows work. Rear quarter windows top and outer seals replaced, sunroof seal brand new. Sunroof working both ways. Doesn't leak. Paint is in excellent condition, some stone chips on front valance. Genuine 2 Piece wheels. ABS/TCS equipped, both working (recently replaced ABS computer and pump). Auto Dip Rearview Mirror New trailing arm bushes. New rear pads and rebuilt handbrake assembly (shoes and cables). All Seat Manual mechanisms working. Small mark on the rear bumper, and front valance has dragged on a couple of parks, has bowed underneath slightly. Also having 90% complete getrag manual conversion that can be arranged to come with for the right deal, can even convert prior to sale if required. Definitely one of the better examples you'll find, one you can get in and just drive. Happy to answer any questions. Looking for $12000

Heya, would you consider shipping? If so I'll grab the rack and heater hose.