SmackJackTheCrackerMan

Hey all,

I know it’s a long shot but I’ve had a bit of an accident the other day and completely smashed one of my wheels. (Rock in the middle of state highway 1). 
couple of questions:

1/ anyone have any idea what these wheels are? No stamps or brands anywhere I can see. 
2/ anyone know where I can get a replacement?3/ can I claim for the damage from anyone? It was going down ngauranga gorge where they are currently stabilising the rock going southbound Abseil Access is the company carrying out the work.

the wheel in question is 19x9.5 +33 5x120

brand new Pirelli P-Zero down the drain as well.

and to top it off it was my birthday this happened too 😂

any help would be great. 

On 12/18/2020 at 8:41 PM, Ninjaspartan said:

VRSF shipping has been fairly reasonbile in my opinion. They are a place in USA that does perfomance parts for n54. I've got a few things from them and its been pretty good so far. (Charge pipe and inlets)

Its highly recommend to replace your charge pipe and diverter valves to a BOV or forged diverter values as you are running higher boost. These pipes are plastic and can crack/split due to the higher boost. 

Also if the spark plugs and ignition coils are old they can cause misfires, so I'd recomend doing them as well, Eldor or Delphi coil are good. OEM Bosch plugs are fine with MHD OTS maps but if you want to go the custom tune route then get NGK 1 step cooler plugs.  

Most stuff in NZ/Trademe is just china stuff from Aliexpress or Ebay anyway. I did get aliexpress downpipes but fitment was an issue. The 5inch intercooler had good fitment from Aliexpress. (Some intercoolers require you to cut some of the plastic out the bumber for it to fit) I had to do this with mine. If you have big power in mind then get the largest intercooler you can find within budget. I am needing to get a larger intercooler as this is starting to be too small now. 

Hi @Ninjaspartan thanks for the advise. 
 

I was looking at VRSF but I really want to have the Intercooler black and they don’t offer on in black (I want to keep it quite stealth) 
I think I’m going to get everything from ARM Motorsport. Intercooler (graphite), charge pipe with Tail Bov, catless downpipes and duel cone intakes. 
shippinng is $300 USD which is horrendous, but I don’t see any other option. 

When it comes to injectors is it a must to have index12? Mine currently have x3 5’s & x3 9’s and I’m not having any issues atm. I was planning on just leaving them until they break or should I be looking at replacing sooner rather than later? 

Got my MHD Wi-Fi adapter in today, not codes when I ran it.

I've just flashed Stage 1 Map and the car feels so much better, super happy with it. Can't believe what a difference it has made. gone from 306hp stock to 360hp. Makes a big difference.

And the surging I was suffering while cruising seem to have gone. Just drove to Palmy & back this morning and all clear.

Looking to push up the power a little now so I will need an upgraded Front mount intercooler and Catless down pipes, any recommendations? The shipping for such a big item is killer from the US, anything within NZ?

On 12/3/2020 at 5:16 PM, Herbmiester said:

MHD will read the codes. 

Just purchased the MHD adapter so once it arrives I'll have a look. Cheers

While I’m here though I’m now in need of a PCV screw on cap as the one I’m currently using has a slight crack. 

I've tried FCP EURO but only available if I purchase a full valve cover ($400 + shipping) and can’t get alone. 
 

anybody have one laying around? Looks similar to this picture. 

4909C80E-72A2-4E94-B2A0-D7A917389272.webp

Ive gave up, I can’t get the program to work. 

@promoid been keen for you to take a look at my 2009 335i which is having a slight rough idle and surging while cruising. 
 

maybe give it the once over and check codes etc. 
 

Where in Wellington at you based? 
 

Cheers

7 page install guide, this might take some time......

15 minutes ago, Jacko said:

ISTA+ is the bad boy you want, have you got that installed? 

In the process now!

34 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Without a code will be pissing in the wind, grabbing an OBD2/usb cable and ista+ for $30 or a bluetooth thing like bimmergeeks protools will make it much easier and faster.

Yeah, I kinda figured that ?

I do have a K+DCAN cable and a few BMW programs that I have downloaded (INPA, NCS Dummy, Tool32, WinKFP, NCS Expert) but I don't have a clue how to read the fault codes.

I also upgraded the PCV Valve if that would make any difference?

14 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Did you bleed the coolant system?

 

What code is it throwing?

Yes, I bled the coolant (twice just to be sure)

I don't know what code as I don't have a code reader/scan tool.

I have checked using the BC check and nothing showing there.

I managed to source the part I needed (above) and now have the car back on the road.

So the story is I have just replaced the Oil filter housing gasket & oil cooler gasket and replaced with all new bolts and o rings to the oil lines. I have also gave the car an oil & filter change, as well as a coolant top up as I lost quite a bit when the flange dissolved in my hands.

First drive before the car even got up to temp the engine went into limp mode and reduced power. Luckily I managed to limp the car home without issue. Turned off let it cool down.

Second  drive (engine light gone) and things seem okay  when up to temp except when cruising the car seems to surge forward, then stop then surge, then stop and will just keep doing that. I have been back in the engine bay and checked everything I can think of is tightened up.

Any suggestion of when this could be?

Just a shot in the dark but wondering if anybody has a N54 coolant flange they don’t require?

Preferably an upgraded billet but I will buy either to get back on the road! 
 

Does any company within NZ do a billet coolant flange to save me shipping from overseas? 
Thanks in advance! 

Looks great, I also have a 2009 black 335i e91 msport on 19’s. 

Black leather with silver trim. I actually fancy getting the silver trim covered black. 
 

Do you have much else planned? 

I'm also looking to upgrade my suspension early next year. I would imagine I will go with a decent set of coilovers, but as you say, I couldn't take it much lower then standard.

Upgrading to M3 arms kits seems to be a popular way to tighten everything up.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-m3-control-arm-upgrade-kit-e82-e88-e90-e91-e92-e93-bmwmcaktfr#description

A bit expensive but I would imagine this will completely change how the car feels.

I had an E92 M-Sport and that was always lower on the right hand side. I assumed that the suspension was getting a bit tired. 
move since got a E91 M-Sport and that is exactly the same. 
I wonder if they come like that from factory? 

I have seen these work great in the e9x CIC and I believe it’s wireless. 

there are a couple of videos on YouTube how to install etc, all seems pretty straight forward

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254768413645

I think I’ll grab one of these myself soon enough. 

3 minutes ago, Olaf said:

at a guess, check sunroof drains, tail light gaskets, boot and window seals... then test to see if its your side vents.  I'd not be sealing them, they're engineered that way for a reason...  could be door vapour barriers if car facing uphill in rain.... plenty of possibilities

I dried everything off, checked everything was working okay then put it all back together.  I've just been for a drive, everything was fine then the speakers went again. Took it all back apart and theres water in there again and it's not even raining.

all the seals look in good condition, I'm assuming the drain hole for the sunroof are the two rubbers near the top with a hole in them? Any tips for de blocking?

So over the last week a have been hearing some odd noises coming out of the speakers, kind of like a crackle, pop, poof noises ?

Anyway, yesterday all of the speakers on the driver side of the car suddenly stopped working (except the rhs sub), but the passenger side worked totally fine, nice and clear as you would expect. 
 

Today I thought I would check the head unit to make sure there wasn’t a loose connection but everything was fine. 
 

Tried locating the amp to check in the passenger side of the boot and well, I found the problem.....

A sh*t tone of water just chillin around the amp.

So my question is.... can I seal up the vent flaps without causing any issues? Assuming that is how the water has gotten in! 

On 10/31/2020 at 8:46 PM, Eagle said:

Front bushings. You may be off replacing the whole arm long term though. If the ball joint fails on your new bushings then you are going to be buying a whole new arm.

 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-e81-e90-e65-e66-meyle-31120304308my

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-assembly-front-left-front-31126769797my

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-front-right-front-e88-e89-e90-e91-31126769798my

 

If you running without required hub rings then thats likely your issue

Correct. I got the hub rings today 74x72.6 and it’s like a different car. No more wobble at all. Thanks. 

 Very nice! I do like a good wagon. 

19 hours ago, andrewm said:

This, ive had 4 euros with 80-100kmh steering wheel shake and its been thrust bushes / lower control arm every time usually around 100-120,000km on the bushes.

Alot of force transfers through them, you wont feel it by hand, I didnt notice using a mid size pry bar but changed them anyway.

Thanks Andrew! Think I’ll give this a go. 
is this what I should be replacing? 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-bushing-33326775552

I’ve also ordered some hub centric rings as apparently the wheels are designed for a 5 series so has a slightly larger centre bore. 

14 hours ago, qube said:

my money is on thrust arm bushes, if its doing it at 80kmh while cruising and not related to braking (in which case it would be warped rotors or similar)

I suppose it's a case of jacking the car up and giving everything a good shake! See if anything is loose that shouldn't be.