modz

Has anyone got a set that I could borrow (paid) or want to sell?

I'm in Auckland and want to do the detents in my box.  Last time I did it without the right tools and it was a PITA...

Thanks in advance

@M3AN thanks very much yep I did mean 2 door....

I’ll run Evo 4 seats then, save the hassle. Pity because most of them are stuffed and the Evo 5 onward seats are generally tidy.

Cheers!

Equally non-specific for a 2 door

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-interior/seats-and-seat-anchorages

WoF requires the passenger seat (at minimum) to be reclineable. However what does Reclineable actually mean?

VTNZ were vague at best.

Is it

1) Has flip forward ability via lever OR

2) Has ability to recline via dial mechanism?

I get that fixed back's are excluded, I'm not interested in them.  But late model Recaro's e.g. Evo 5 seats don't have the flip forward/recline mechanism, only the winder

Thoughts appreciated

Awesome work, great attention to detail

WTB E30 Passenger Coupe door (TIDY)

Pref Facelift but will work with whatever.  No rusty / dented doors please.

No glass or interior pieces needed.

Pref in Auckland but let me know what you have.

Thanks

There's a guy on FB who's wrecked an E46 330D if that helps you?

1 minute ago, BM WORLD said:

switch wires goes up into the ecu box area , i think taps into one of the relays there

Awesome thanks Brent, I wondered if that would be easier. I'll wire that up today

I've trawled the internet without much luck - can anyone clearly explain how to wire in the e46 reverse lights after a manual swap?

I've sourced a Bosch connector, soldered on 1m of wire on both tails, attached to the reverse switch on the gearbox, threaded up into the cabin.

Then following some guidance online from an E36 (I have E46) I believe my next steps are to located the plug that used to be in the shifter, find the Blue/Yellow and White/Green wires and attach them to the new tails leading back to the reverse switch on the gearbox.

I realise silly to assume E36 and E46 are the same, so thought I'd check here first.

Thanks

Thanks yeah I've dealt with Chris in rallying days, indeed a good sort.

At the end of the day my brother's car was a $2k special, so got to be better than what's in it now for his budget.

Anyone had experience with the Powered shocks offered by Suspension Tech?  Little bro needs some shocks and these popped up on trademe.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/listing-1692244873.htm

On one hand I'm highly aware of buying quality suspension and braking components. On the other it's not a race car and more than likely produced in the same factory as other higher dollar shocks.

Thanks M3AN, makes sense. Will get that out the way and pursue the other items

9 hours ago, M3AN said:

The airbag and seatbelt lights will illuminate if the seats or belts are disconnected whilst the battery is connected. They need to be reset with the right equipment, I doubt they're related to your other problems.

 

Side question, I have removed the Steering wheel controls from the steering wheel. Could this cause any related issues?

Ok so I pulled the battery off for 20 mins, and then pulled and tested each fuse while the battery was off.  No blown fuses and everything in the correct location.

Stereo does now have power,  Instrument cluster has illumination, high beams and spotlights work

So the problems I'm left with (I suspect not all related)

No indicators/hazards/high beam don't show on dash

Airbag & seatbelt light illuminated

Central lock doesn't work

Passenger mirror doesn't fold down

I'll scanned it and clear codes before I do anything further, the battery has been in / out and flat in the last 6 months so no telling what is a red herring.

Champion, thanks for the advise.  That Z3 diagnostics page you linked makes for good reading.

2 hours ago, NZ00Z3 said:

You want a scanner that can talk to all the computers in the car, not just the engine DME, so the bluetooth> iOS ones will likely not be your best choice.

Some people use the Foxwell 520 scanner. https://www.foxwelltech.com/product/item-340.html

I use INPA on a windows 10 surface pro.  Its cheap to set up and can talk to all computers https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2184573-The-Z3-Diagnostics-Thread-Instructions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

Others will likely chime in with there preferred scanners

I've finally got my E46 330ci back on the road and now have the final electrical gremlins to resolve before I'm happy with it.

I replaced:   Steering wheel / airbag, seats (retaining the original tensioners and wiring), BMW business stereo has been removed and not yet replaced.  All Pillar trims are removed for recovering.

Issues:

Airbag and seatbelt light on the dash

Indicators and hazards work on outside but not on dash

Stereo doesn't appear to have any power

Passenger wing mirror stuck up

Central lock doesn't work (not sure it did before tbh)

I haven't yet checked the dash cluster for backlight when lights are on, or high beam etc; but the above + a quick google indicate a K BUS issue to me.

Approach:

I'm planning to unplug the battery, remove, check & replace all fuses, re attach battery before going further with the K-BUS.

Is it worth getting my own Port Scanner to assist with codes?   I've been looking at Bluetooth > iOS ones.

Any other tips/tricks/suggestions appreciated

A few people have asked so attached is a 2 tab spreadsheet of all the conversion parts I used / could remember while converting my 330ci.

Also a TIPS tab. Notably the last tip, which is that it will cost more than you think, especially if you're a fussy bugger like me.

This isn't gospel, it is a GUIDE.  Hopefully it helps someone else out.

BMWorld, HellBM, MotorSport Rentals, P&S Automotive and FCPEuro are great sources of help and parts

E46 Manual Conversion List.xlsx

Tip for replacing them if you don't have the 'special pliers' is to just grab some of these 'End Cut pliers' from the local hardware shop.

Just be gentle enough to not cut the clamp....

I have had one quote at a fairly high end shop for $1,600 inc GST. 

For context, that was including removal (bumper), repairing of 2 minor bonnet dents and usual stone chipping, respray and refit (bumper)

Has anyone had a Front end respray recently? 

Bonnet, bumper, guards + blend

if so what price and by whom?

in Auckland pref

Thanks

Sorted thanks @HELLBM and @BM WORLD ended up skipping the clutch switch and running power straight to Pin 8 as suggested.

Next challenge is reverse lights...

Yeah that sounds like PIN 8 Brent

I'm going to go through all the fuses tonight to check I haven't popped the DME fuse or something dumb like that.

Currently has no exhaust (headers only) so starting should be nice and neighbour friendly

I've just finished swapping my 330ci to manual. All gone reasonably well.

Having followed various threads and guides online, I've used a 4 pin clutch switch

Pin 1 connected to power on brake switch

Pin 2 connected at pin 23 on the DME

Pin 3 connected to earth on brake switch

Pin 4 connected to pin 8 on the EWS module

However even with pushing the clutch in there is no start / no crank.  All interior lights etc work, including dash.  Gear icon is on the dash - which I'd expect pre-coding.

Any tips / tricks to check?

Thanks in advance

Thanks Brent