NZ_InFerno

There's a water proof membrane on the door that's a common-ish failure. Even if it's dry below, if you can't find anything elsewhere it would be worth looking at. Otherwise as above the drains below the windscreen can get blocked by leaves and allow water to enter through the air duct system

So I did order the Linux screen earlier this month, and got it working great, but not fully installed yet. How did you route the new wiring @Herbmiester suspect I'm going to have to remove the support structure holding the CCC unit to get behind and run the two cables to the screen. Mine also came with a tray for the screen to sit in, with separate metal bits and zero instructions on how they fit to the tray. I think it be worked out how they go but it's Does it have a screw at the back to hold the tray down, or is it purely leveraging off the two existing fixing points for the old screen?

On the lci cars the valve cover comes with the gasket as an oe part, so you'll be replacing the whole lot anyway. The cover also comes with part of pcv system too. The pcv hose off the back of the valve cover will likely break when it's removed to take off the valve cover, especially if it's the original hose. Plastic gets brittle over time. So that's always a must do when doing the valve cover. The gasket for the valvetronic motor should be done at the same time, motor has to be removed to take off the valve cover. Be aware that the vvt motor gasket is different for lci and pre lci, make sure you get the right one. Check the cams for wear while you're in there, and the vanos bolts etc

Thanks for the link! Mine needs a new screen so shopping around the different units

Do you have a link to what unit you bought? @Herbmiester

The actual gasket doesn't cost that much. The labour cost to drop the subframe and replace the gasket is idk 4-5 hours @ hourly rate Probably a 1k job And should do engine mounts while you're in there

Couple minor issues lol. Bet one is an oil leak requiring either subframe dropped for oil pan gasket or valve cover off for gasket/vvt motor gasket.

That was for me, if it is the same car

That's a good deal for a clutch kit

It was 110 pounds for the pipe and similar price for the filter iirc. Shipping was expensive too and plus vat. Price was reasonable pre shipping/vat 😂

I also washed mine last weekend, needed it! Have you enquired with BDS about their filter/intake pipe combo? Quoted me 320 pounds, for about a 15hp gain over a K&N filter with stock pipe which is pretty decent for a bolt on.

Used Penrite 75w90 for my diff

If you want to change gears yourself, manual is the best option.

Supersprint backbox. Bit louder under throttle + nicer sound. Zero drone. Not annoying at 50 or 100. Expensive for what it does. Wish it had a it more noise tbh but then it would probably be more annoying at motorway speeds. Edit : I'm waiting on an fcpeuro order that looks like it will turn up within a week. Ironically has a mickey mouse flange and hose in it.

For the lower tier N52s, 325i/328i, that don't have the three stage manifolds it's somewhat common in the US to use a N54 manifold as an upgrade. It's hard to get hold of a three stage N52 there afaik.I It's not as good as the 130i/330i full N52 spec motor manifold from the dyno tests I've seen, makes same or slightly more power at the top end but sacrifices torque to do so.

I'm keen, depending on price, needs a lot of tuning and filters before I order a set. Probably not any extra power but sounds awesome

Yeah that was my guess as well. I'm going to order #2 and #4 just to be safe 😂

Anyone know which crankcase ventilation hose attaches down by the starter motor? And what the part code is. I've had a bit of an air leak for a while that I suspected was the intake boot I swapped on. Turns out that was not the case, and a crankcase vent hose has come off deep down in the engine bay by the starter. I want to get a replacement just in case mine is broken, smoke test and borescope camera confirmed the hose is at fault but not enough to see if its just come off or has a damaged end. Since it's likely manifold off, again, to put it back on I want to make sure I have one on hand just in case.

More parts got thrown at the 130i yesterday! Full brake replacement from this: To this New TRW OE spec rotors, ceramic pads, upgraded rubber brake lines from Schmiedmann, wheel sensors, various bits like brake screws, metal retaining clips and rubber/plastic bits on the calipers. Fully flushed the brake fluid and new stuff in the reservoir. Also replaced my trunk gas struts which were pretty rusty 😢 Managed to get the vanos filters/check valves in as well while the wheels were off. Definitely a bit of a pain even with full access through the inner fender. Old ones had a few bits of crap on them but otherwise pretty clean for 185k kms. Now to drive it around for a few days but already there's a bit more bite and stronger pedal. Lost a bit of feel with the ceramics bit I'll take that for no brake dust. One of the brake lines was pretty bad, glad I got them done reasonably quickly after it was picked up in last wof. Next is to replace the crankcase ventilation hose that got knocked off or broken when the starter was done a while back 😅 And maybe even the oil pan gasket this summer 🤣

That's the Hell BM one, pretty spicy

There's 3 known ones iirc. Not sold new, all imports either Singapore or UK. The 5 door is better in a lot of usability ways, and for parts. In the 3-door, door seals are pretty average with a lot of wind noise and poverty spec interior on imports unless ex UK. Then you want xenons and msport. Back seats are useless in the 3 door, in 5 door slightly more useful. Only slightly. They do look better stock though. With an aero spoiler on either there's not much in it. Personal pref after years of ownership, and 3 130i, would be a 5 door with aero spoiler. I don't recommend buying a car out of Singapore just fyi

A bit more love for the 130i, been throwing a few parts at it the last couple months. Had a wonky idle and limp mode accelerator pedal a few weeks back, suspected vanos solenoids. I wasn't sure if they'd been done on this car( I did have 3 130i at one point 😅) but I did find some cheap nasty solenoids in my parts pile I'd ordered during lockdown for reasons unknown to me. Swapping them in made a difference, and also change in fault code! From a generic valvetronic to intake solenoid 🤣 Don't buy shitty solenoids kids. The old solenoids were originals, so definitely due for a change. Went to the usual fcpeuro and picked up Pierburg oem solenoids and a few extras, delivery in 5 days Fitted the solenoids today, mega difference in performance, exhaust note. The mid range is alive again! Also swapped in some new hood struts, the old ones have been overworked in my ownership. Also rusty 🫠 I also picked up some of the vanos filters, will get them in at some point but looks quite fiddly.

My insurance changed heaps in January on renewal, coverage dropped $2k in value from $15k to $13k and price went up $5-10 a month. That's with AA, agreed value. About $900~ a year. I'm an AA member so believe there's a discount on my policy.

The vanos solenoids are there, they're usually $250 each for oem ones. One for intake, the other exhaust. If they're taking them out to change the o rings hopefully they'll clean them for you too. Depending on kms they could be due for replacement. Cleaning them will extend their life potentially.

Oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler gasket are $20 each. Need new bolts for the housing, another $20-30. What vanos seals? There's o rings on the solenoids and the valvetronic motor has a gasket. Sounds like they're doing a rocker cover gasket plus oil filter housing maybe? There's a lot less room to work on the engine on the E87 platform with N52 compared to the Z4.