NZ_InFerno

No cruise control, but you can buy the stalk and retrofit with some coding. I've had 3 130i and only my E81 had the cruise control, it's a rare option.

So I might need to sell my car quite unexpectedly, would I get 12k for it? 130i seem very cheap on trademe, but none are "modified" nor seem to have been mechanically sorted. If you guys can give me some idea of what I could get for mine it would be greatly appreciated Basically everything that's a mechanical issue on the N52 has been sorted on it, mickey mouse flange being done this week. Big list of work done/parts replaced below. All done last 10k kms unless otherwise stated. Has all the oem interior parts that have been replaced with it in boxes. BMW Roof racks too. 4 door White Manual, 185k kms. Work Emotion D9Rs staggered 18" Wheels, RE003s all round Supersprint Exhaust backbox BMW AERO Spoiler Ohlins adjustable coil overs Cert for Wheels/Suspension Fauxcantara mirror BMW Performance interior parts, handbrake cover/handle, shifter gaiter and BMW ZHP weighted shift knob. Android/Carplay idrive screen replacement Old pics, roof racks removed. When Purchased: Major service items replaced include DISA valves, water pump. Told clutch replaced but no proof. Service history By Me in last 10k kms, all with OE or OEM parts FCP Euro/Schmiedmann with receipts for 90% RE003 rear tyres K&N Airfilter and Cabin air filter PCV System and hoses MAF sensor Eccentric shaft sensor Chain and tensioners checked at 177xxxkms Rocker Cover Gasket Oil change/Service Electronic relay for valvetronic motor Valvetronic motor and fuses Spark Plugs x6 Coils x6 Front and rear driveshaft Guibos(couplings) Shifter bushings replacement(upgrade kit) Transmission Mounts New Diff oil, gearbox oil replaced at 180k kms Instrument cluster cover in Alcantara Starter motor Intake manifold gaskets Turner Motorsports Intake boot Rear indicator bulbs New Idrive controller plastic surround Work Wheels centre caps New Wipers New side indicators Oem tail lights full replacement Power steering reservoir and new fluid Oil Filter Housing Cooler Gasket Front Accessories Belt, Tensioner and idler pulley Replacement rear License Plate light Pierburg OEM Solenoids Stabilus hood struts Schmiedmann upgraded brake lines all round - Outer lines front and rear TRW Front and Rear rotors Ceramic brake pads Front and Rear New brake screws, Rubber caliper slides, and brake hardware Replaced brake fluid Wheel sensors front and rear Vanos Oil filters/Check valves x2 Meyle Boot struts All wheels refinished by Wheel Magician Also have some parts like oil filters, engine mounts and sump gasket for work I planned to do. I also have some extra bits but can't recall atm. Bad things on the car are cosmetic aka stuff I was doing this year after mechanically sorting it. There's a dent in the rear left crease line. Slight damage to front bumper plastic beside front license plate. I would cut and polish car before sale and paints pretty good apart from a couple stone chips. The interior, everything is nice except for the head lining and the wheel. Headliner is sagging and has been pinned up, and wheel and insert are not great. I have two replacement inserts and leather for the wheel that requires stitching. And a $700 quote for headliner to be done properly.

There's a water proof membrane on the door that's a common-ish failure. Even if it's dry below, if you can't find anything elsewhere it would be worth looking at. Otherwise as above the drains below the windscreen can get blocked by leaves and allow water to enter through the air duct system

So I did order the Linux screen earlier this month, and got it working great, but not fully installed yet. How did you route the new wiring @Herbmiester suspect I'm going to have to remove the support structure holding the CCC unit to get behind and run the two cables to the screen. Mine also came with a tray for the screen to sit in, with separate metal bits and zero instructions on how they fit to the tray. I think it be worked out how they go but it's Does it have a screw at the back to hold the tray down, or is it purely leveraging off the two existing fixing points for the old screen?

On the lci cars the valve cover comes with the gasket as an oe part, so you'll be replacing the whole lot anyway. The cover also comes with part of pcv system too. The pcv hose off the back of the valve cover will likely break when it's removed to take off the valve cover, especially if it's the original hose. Plastic gets brittle over time. So that's always a must do when doing the valve cover. The gasket for the valvetronic motor should be done at the same time, motor has to be removed to take off the valve cover. Be aware that the vvt motor gasket is different for lci and pre lci, make sure you get the right one. Check the cams for wear while you're in there, and the vanos bolts etc

Thanks for the link! Mine needs a new screen so shopping around the different units

Do you have a link to what unit you bought? @Herbmiester

The actual gasket doesn't cost that much. The labour cost to drop the subframe and replace the gasket is idk 4-5 hours @ hourly rate Probably a 1k job And should do engine mounts while you're in there

Couple minor issues lol. Bet one is an oil leak requiring either subframe dropped for oil pan gasket or valve cover off for gasket/vvt motor gasket.

That was for me, if it is the same car

That's a good deal for a clutch kit

It was 110 pounds for the pipe and similar price for the filter iirc. Shipping was expensive too and plus vat. Price was reasonable pre shipping/vat 😂

I also washed mine last weekend, needed it! Have you enquired with BDS about their filter/intake pipe combo? Quoted me 320 pounds, for about a 15hp gain over a K&N filter with stock pipe which is pretty decent for a bolt on.

Used Penrite 75w90 for my diff

If you want to change gears yourself, manual is the best option.

Supersprint backbox. Bit louder under throttle + nicer sound. Zero drone. Not annoying at 50 or 100. Expensive for what it does. Wish it had a it more noise tbh but then it would probably be more annoying at motorway speeds. Edit : I'm waiting on an fcpeuro order that looks like it will turn up within a week. Ironically has a mickey mouse flange and hose in it.

For the lower tier N52s, 325i/328i, that don't have the three stage manifolds it's somewhat common in the US to use a N54 manifold as an upgrade. It's hard to get hold of a three stage N52 there afaik.I It's not as good as the 130i/330i full N52 spec motor manifold from the dyno tests I've seen, makes same or slightly more power at the top end but sacrifices torque to do so.

I'm keen, depending on price, needs a lot of tuning and filters before I order a set. Probably not any extra power but sounds awesome

Yeah that was my guess as well. I'm going to order #2 and #4 just to be safe 😂

Anyone know which crankcase ventilation hose attaches down by the starter motor? And what the part code is. I've had a bit of an air leak for a while that I suspected was the intake boot I swapped on. Turns out that was not the case, and a crankcase vent hose has come off deep down in the engine bay by the starter. I want to get a replacement just in case mine is broken, smoke test and borescope camera confirmed the hose is at fault but not enough to see if its just come off or has a damaged end. Since it's likely manifold off, again, to put it back on I want to make sure I have one on hand just in case.

More parts got thrown at the 130i yesterday! Full brake replacement from this: To this New TRW OE spec rotors, ceramic pads, upgraded rubber brake lines from Schmiedmann, wheel sensors, various bits like brake screws, metal retaining clips and rubber/plastic bits on the calipers. Fully flushed the brake fluid and new stuff in the reservoir. Also replaced my trunk gas struts which were pretty rusty 😢 Managed to get the vanos filters/check valves in as well while the wheels were off. Definitely a bit of a pain even with full access through the inner fender. Old ones had a few bits of crap on them but otherwise pretty clean for 185k kms. Now to drive it around for a few days but already there's a bit more bite and stronger pedal. Lost a bit of feel with the ceramics bit I'll take that for no brake dust. One of the brake lines was pretty bad, glad I got them done reasonably quickly after it was picked up in last wof. Next is to replace the crankcase ventilation hose that got knocked off or broken when the starter was done a while back 😅 And maybe even the oil pan gasket this summer 🤣

That's the Hell BM one, pretty spicy

There's 3 known ones iirc. Not sold new, all imports either Singapore or UK. The 5 door is better in a lot of usability ways, and for parts. In the 3-door, door seals are pretty average with a lot of wind noise and poverty spec interior on imports unless ex UK. Then you want xenons and msport. Back seats are useless in the 3 door, in 5 door slightly more useful. Only slightly. They do look better stock though. With an aero spoiler on either there's not much in it. Personal pref after years of ownership, and 3 130i, would be a 5 door with aero spoiler. I don't recommend buying a car out of Singapore just fyi

A bit more love for the 130i, been throwing a few parts at it the last couple months. Had a wonky idle and limp mode accelerator pedal a few weeks back, suspected vanos solenoids. I wasn't sure if they'd been done on this car( I did have 3 130i at one point 😅) but I did find some cheap nasty solenoids in my parts pile I'd ordered during lockdown for reasons unknown to me. Swapping them in made a difference, and also change in fault code! From a generic valvetronic to intake solenoid 🤣 Don't buy shitty solenoids kids. The old solenoids were originals, so definitely due for a change. Went to the usual fcpeuro and picked up Pierburg oem solenoids and a few extras, delivery in 5 days Fitted the solenoids today, mega difference in performance, exhaust note. The mid range is alive again! Also swapped in some new hood struts, the old ones have been overworked in my ownership. Also rusty 🫠 I also picked up some of the vanos filters, will get them in at some point but looks quite fiddly.

My insurance changed heaps in January on renewal, coverage dropped $2k in value from $15k to $13k and price went up $5-10 a month. That's with AA, agreed value. About $900~ a year. I'm an AA member so believe there's a discount on my policy.