elias
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Posts posted by elias
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My wheels arrived, delivered straight away by auto form to my work, great customer service. Went with a square set of 235/40/18 tires, decided to go with the Hankook Ventus R-S4 as I have heard many good things about it being a reasonably long lasting grippy semi slick, and managed to get them for $280 a corner through a sale on hyperdrive. Got them fitted and balanced and no scratches on the new wheels which I was very relieved about.
Got the m4 brakes mounted on the car with the seems legit garage adapters. Was a pretty straight forward install, just took some trimming of the heat/dust shields, especially on the rear. I ended up cutting a quarter of the front heatshields out to allow the brake ducting to be more effective on the front. The front brakes I used the factory brake ones, the rear brakes I used the m4 ones as they are slightly longer, to account for the much larger discs. As far as sensors go, I have left the original 135i wear sensors and zipped them out of the way, in fitter I may splice the m4 sensors into the 135i plugs. Gave the brakes a bleed with some fresh mogul rbf600.
So far it all works great, and looks fantastic with the new wheels, just needs a wheel alignment now.
Took the car out for some photos.
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Selling my stock e82 135i wheels as they no longer fit my car.
Wheels have curbing, and rear have scratches from tires being fitted/removed, would benefit from a refurb. Come with 2x good tread front tires mounted, 2x no good semi slick rear tires mounted which can be used for skids/burnouts and 2x good tread rear tires to put on once you've had your fun.
Alternatively, if you aren't partial to a skid, I can get the good tires fitted to the rear before sale.
Tires are stock sizes, 215/40/18, 245/35/18 F/R.
Wheels are 18x7.5 et49 and 18x8.5 et52 staggered.
Burnout tires are 245/40/18.
Will get better photos soon
$650, have no more use for them and they're taking up space.
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On 1/10/2023 at 10:48 AM, CSET said:Yep, heck of an upgrade for the old e46. But that being said, I'm having a little trouble fitting the e39 wheels. Have spaced the fronts but running into some other issues (the hub locator rings barely fit on the spacers, and I don't like spacers in the first place...).
Chances are I'll swap the e9x 18's on for a try then failing that will revert to CSL 19's. Albeit not as much sidewall and a seeminly harsher ride, they still handle okay and look great.
Yeah Id imagine so, good brakes for sure! CSL wheels are beautiful, used to have a set on my car, albeit reps as I wanted 18s, now running apex wheels for greater brake clearance. Beautiful car you have by the way!
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2 hours ago, Eagle said:It did look very familiar. Yeah would be interested to see how it holds up. The ceramic pads certainly help keep the calipers much cleaner in my car.
Yeah will update the thread once ive put them to use for a bit, I did do 2 decent layers of a 2K clearcoat so should have decent protection. Still waiting on wheels to arrive and to get tires sorted so I can finally get these brakes fitted.
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sweet, cheers for the replies and recommendations!
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17 minutes ago, Vass said:That looks absolutely mint man. Did you paint it yourself? What sort of paint did you use? Going to be doing mine soon but no idea what products to use yet.
thank you! I went to a local auto paint supplier, this one was called car colours, brought in the brake caliper and used what they recommended. I used a generic high temp paint as a primer, then got the auto paint supplier to custom tint a spray can in estoril blue, and then I used a 2K clear over the top after putting on the decal, which I ordered off a website in England. The true test will be to see how it lasts, but at least for now it looks good!
brake calliper decals from here: https://www.brakecaliperdecals.co.uk/BMW-Decals/BMW-M-Brake-Caliper-Decals
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Wheres the best place in auckland to go to get some AN lines made for a custom oil cooler setup. The parts are easy enough to source from racleab, NZKW etc but not sure how/where to get the hoses made, i.e fitting attached etc.
Any advice appreciated,
cheers
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4 hours ago, Eagle said:Yeah pretty much the same as me. I think you'd have to at least take the diff to someone to have the backlash measured before buying it. As you know the E9X & E8X diffs are rubbish, so finding a good one these days might be hard.
yeah would want to get it checked over before hand for sure
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On 1/3/2023 at 6:56 PM, Eagle said:Did you have any noticeable backlash with the stock diff? My old diff was very quiet\good backlash\slack and was thinking on swapping the center over to that one at some point. Mainly hear it on\off throttle and changing in lower gears around town etc.
In saying that i think using worn parts with new center is always going to create some slop somewhere. No one can guarantee any wrecker diff would be good until you use it with the new center.
no I had no noticeable backlash with the stock diff head in the stock housing. But once the factory diff was put in, I think Kayne Barrie set it a bit looser on the backlash in order own ensure the gear meshing was safe. Yeah mostly getting on/off the throttle its bit clunky.
Yes, however if the wrecker's diff is in good shape, without excessive pinion bearing wear, the gears should be in good enough shape to be able to adjust backlash properly, however like you say there is no guarantee.
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On 8/14/2022 at 5:51 PM, Eagle said:Diff back and installed. Never used a helical but you certainly notice the rear end pushing and wanting rotate more freely, even on low speed corners. Breaks traction nicely too and very easy to control. Probably re-program the DSC with M-track settings to optimize it.
Bad news is there was some wear some on crown wheel and pinion which meant backlash couldn't be adjusted to spec without the gear pattern being off. Certainly the classic thump\vibration due to this when engaging first and shifting in the lower gears. Old diff was very tight and quiet compared to this one, so i hindsight i would of used that. Will have to live with it for the time being and maybe try some heavier oil after break in (Recommend Toreco oil is thin). Will keep my old unit to swap out incase i get sick of it.
Got rid of the crappy cup holders too and made some usable space
have the exact same issue with my mfactory diff that Kayne barrie installed for me, bad pinion bearing caused wear on the pinion and ring gears so backlash is loose, and it makes clunky noises, on my 135i that is. Replacing pinion, I was quoted $1400 for, and even then the gears are still worn do wouldn't solve the issue, seems like getting a good condition diff form a wrecker is the best solution.
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Seems Legit garage brackets arrived, so I decided to test fit one of the front brakes to ensure everything lined up properly. Everything bolted up nice and easily, and looks great. Tried to put the stock front wheel back on, no chance, far too small, nowhere near enough barrel clearance.
In other news, Ive ordered a new set of wheels, 18x8.5 et45 Apex EC-7 in the anthracite finish, should be here in 2-3 weeks.
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On 12/23/2022 at 1:24 AM, CSET said:Wow so long since I posted that I forgot my password. This one has had a couple of small updates, new big brake kit has arrived, swapped on the semi slicks + e39 wheels (painted gloss white), new tune for the carbon CSL intake and had the RTAB's replaced again. Need to do a nut & bolt check then ready for the South Island tour next year. For now she's sitting pretty in the dust-free Showcase.
Looks fantastic! I may be mistaken here and slightly off topic but are those callipers the same as found on a stock 135i? Look remarkably similar.
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11 hours ago, Snejki said:I’d probably be interested in this one too, have you found any info yet?
I think you’d have to remove all iDrive ECUs from the VO. Some options like tyre pressure reset can only be done in iDrive if car has it, so you’d have to make this option available in the dash menu if that’s possible thorugh coding, or just disable it 😁.
Then sell the whole CCC kit and install a good old stereo. Damn I really dislike the flip up and all the pops and click noises around there when driving 🤣
Have found some info, spoke to some people who do coding and reckon it would be easy as to code the car to non idrive. Then just seems to be a matter of removing all the iDrive junk, the amp, and wiring a new amp to the speakers. I will probably just wire the amp straight to an aux cord, with no head unit.
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Been slacking on here recently, finished Uni for the year and have been busy with work since. Trying to save enough money to keep working on this project of slowly building a club sport/weekend track car spec 135i.
Brakes needed doing on all four corners (pads and rotors), any decent ones that would work for some track use were quite expensive and would still leave me with stock calipers that are prone to failing in high heat, a well known issue with the stock 135i brembos.
So I came across a set of f82 m4 brakes for sale, only 2000km on them, out of a crashed car. Found some brackets that are sold in the USA to fit these onto 135i hubs and ordered those too. These m4 brakes seem to work a lot better from what ive read, and seeing Robert Kubica's Nurburgring lap.
Unfortunately due to the massive 380mm rotors, had to sell the CSL wheels since they do not have sufficient clearance. So new wheels will be on the way soon, more money...
Also been working on trying to figure out how to remove the entire iDrive system and wire an aux straight into the speakers for simplicity's sake.
Lots more things to come soon.
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Selling a set of 4 18x8 et38 5x120 CSL style wheels.
Perfect fitment for 1 series, also fit great on e46, e36 from what I understand.
Great square setup, improves handling significantly over the stock staggered setup with 215 front tires.
Currently raw vapour blasted aluminium finish, so either lave as is for a nice unique silver look or ready for powdercoat/paint.
Minimal curbing on some wheels.
Best looking wheels for any bmw, classic CSL design, look incredible especially on e46. Only selling as I need something with more brake clearance for a big brake kit im fitting to my car, these wheels fit stock 135i brakes fine.
$1100
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19 minutes ago, Bandit said:ARC8 from Apex will clear also. Here is a willing seller for you. Two sets available in 18 and 19 inches. BestGun will cheerfully measure up for you I'm sure.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/search?member_listing=688807&bof=PBy7PxqY
thanks for the lead, unfortunately those offsets do not work well at all on a 135i, Id need 18x8.5 et45 and from my research ARC-8 only clear 380mm brakes with a spacer, so would lower the offset even further.
Appreciate the response, cheers
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Wanted to buy:
Style 68 wheels, rears only 17x8.5 et50. Stock wheels for pre facelift e46 m sport cars.
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Hello,
Ive got a 2008 135i, with the CCC flip up IDrive screen, I want to get rid of it. I want to remove the IDrive screen, radio and the heated seat controls as I will be replacing the seats with fixed back seats soon anyways. Anyone here know how to wiring works? Can I simply unplug it all, the code the car to tell it it no longer has I drive? Also is it possible to remove all the wiring for the speakers or is that part of the main harness for the airbags etc?
Any help would be much appreciated, im not particularly knowledgeable on the wiring/coding related stuff and doesn't seem to be much info online.
Cheers
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WTB: 17x8 wheels
Looking for 17x8 et40/42 or 17x8.5 et45 5x120 wheels
Not too worried about brand but the lighter the better, don't have to be in amazing condition.
Cheers
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Have been looking around trying to figure out a price for the m3 front control arm upgrade kit (TRW), however FCP doesn't seem to be able to ship it to NZ, anyone had a similar issue?
Elias' 135i project
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Some more photos of the car as it sits now, very happy with the exterior except for maybe a front lip or different front bumper in the future... on to the interior next.