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Posts posted by elias
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I’ve worked out apparently a e90 325i auto front half fits so getting one of those from a wrecker and then a e36 rear half.
yeah unfortunately do need driveshaft hoops despite increasing power by only 49.9%. Spoke to my certifier and he said will need hoops regardless of power increase as the engine and gearbox I’m using were never offered from factory in this car.
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Still looking for an e36 zf front half.
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Installed a bunch of sound deadening in the floor of the car in an effort to keep this one more comfortable and street friendly than the 135i…
installed the clutch master as well, now that I have the feed line, only to find that it runs the brake linkage. Turns out there’s meant to be an elbow fitting in the master not a straight fitting that my pedal box came with, luckily Peter from P&S auto has an elbow in stock so off to there after work then to give it another go
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5 minutes ago, BrockosBeamer said:Okay Awesome to know thank you, might leave the whole plus turbo but for now then and just worry about the engine swap, will have to look into where i can get those oil sump and bits from but thank you for your advice
Yeah, I think it should still be fun NA. Have a look on Facebook, there’s a couple of e30 groups where there’s usually someone that has what you’re after.
if you do decide to go with a zf box, prepare to pay good $$ for driveshaft and diff.
as far as wiring goes, if you’re in Auckland, Luke from skunk works has done plenty of these swaps and offers a wiring service if you supply the m52 loom to make it work in an e30.
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16 minutes ago, BrockosBeamer said:Hey Team,
Im wanting to put an M52B28 into a 4 door 1986 E30 and then turbo it, was just wondering if anyone has done this and wether they bought a kit or diy and what troubles they ran into,
Cheers
I’m currently doing m52b28 into pfl Sedan. But keeping it Na. I’d imagine for a turbo set up steering column clearance will be fairly tight trying to get a decent size downpipe down there without the manifold getting in the way.
You’ll obviously need a front sump, dipstick, pickup tube, e34 m50 parts. You’ll also want to use a zf 5 Speed box, which means you’ll need a lower ratio (~3.15) medium case diff. Not sure how strong axles are either with holding up to boost, maybe 325i ones will be strong enough?
may even want to look into reinforcing rear arms, front subframe etc.
don’t know if you have the e30 already or not but budget a decent amount of money to just get the shell up to spec, most likely will need rust work, and you’d want to replace all the 40 year old bushings under the car and refresh the brakes and suspension as well.
definitely not a cheap exercise to do properly, mine being NA is already getting rather expensive…
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12 minutes ago, mystery39 said:@elias I bought the alternative front shaft and e36 rear shaft, he wants $550 for the whole thing. Not sure what it’s from, front half is 5mm longer than the 328i one but there is enough room left on the spline so in theory it should work fine. Will find out soon enough 🤷🏻♂️
@Toast after a late m20 starter in good nick if you’ve got one?
Cheers
Yeah I think it’s a zf front half from an n52 powered car. Maybe worth looking into. Let me know how you get on!
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Are you wanting to go to a different ratio? I could be interested in buying the 3.15 off you.
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15 hours ago, M3AN said:The flip up one? You can have mine for postage (fully working and faultless screen when removed) if whoever buys the car doesn't want it.
You could expedite of course if you buy the car. 😉
Yep that’s the one! That would be ideal. Let me know if/once you’re able to let it go. Haha it is a lovely car but I’ve got too many cars already.
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2 hours ago, mystery39 said:Roland Rock has the driveshafts for about 750 from memory. Or an alternative front half shaft/e36 rear half combo for a bit less
Feel free to sell me that starter motor when you’re ready 😁
Haha I’ll sell it to you with the flywheel
yeah not keen to pay $750 for a front half.
@Toast I might be keen to grab a m52 starter off you depending on what you’re after for it.
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Yeah I’m struggling to find diff and zf driveshaft. Have most of the rest of the parts.
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Thought this might be a good place to ask. Anyone here got a spare ccc Idrive screen left over from an upgrade they’d be wanting to sell for cheap?
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2 hours ago, Toast said:I've got one but unsure on the ratio, it's open, how much are you looking to pay?
Ratio should be stamped on a metal tag.
im assuming @mystery39 is using a zf box in an e30 based on the ratio you’re looking for?
in the same boat myself, hoping to find a z3 m coupe lsd for a reasonable price.
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3 hours ago, 325iRod said:@elias Nice find, if you ever want to sell it ill take it off your hands
I will keep you in mind, once I find a radio I like and remove it, I shall offer it to you first.
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4 minutes ago, 325iRod said:@elias where did you get the stereo blanking plate?
I actually found it in the glovebox of the car when I finally managed to open it. The latch was broken, had to drill it out and found all sorts in there. It’s only in the dash temporarily until I find a nice oem looking headunit and sort the wiring out.
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Made a bit more progress, making the most of the long weekend. Sandblasted and painted clutch and brake pedals, painted the firewall side of the pedal box, installed the pedals and a new Sachs Master into the pedal box. Got the e90 brake booster fitted as well, still need to make a plan for teeing the front brake lines into the e90 master. Pedal box hooked up to the booster with the linkage too, works smoothly with the stainless clevis pin I made. Painted the fuel tank and put that back in the car also.
installed the heater box with a new genuine gasket to make sure there’s no leaks, hooked up the cables for the controls.
painted the floor inside the car as well, put the dash back in and started plugging a few things back in, fingers crossed at least the important stuff works. Still need to put a whole bunch of trims and bits and pieces in to complete the dash but it’s a start. Also some wiring to sort out. Some photos below.
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Right gotcha. No unfortunately haven’t found anything suitable yet, I think I’ll use something like dynamat or similar on the inside but not sure what to do for heat protection on the outside just yet, debating just heat wrapping the headers and leaving it as is.
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Just read through your thread now, awesome work! I’m currently restoring an e30 as well, have all the suspension stuff stripped out currently, who did your sandblasting of the front strut housings for you? Need to get that done along with rear trailing arms, front and rear subframes, heatshields etc
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2 minutes ago, Sammo said:Just try not to spend E30 M3 money on your E30 😂
I’ll try, the aim is to keep it below m235i money but make it just as fun
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Excellent stuff, be interested to hear what it sounds like once you’re finished. Might need to get you to give me a hand with the audio/headunit situation on my e30, previous ownr made a right mess of the wiring, and I don’t know the first thing about car audio
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40 minutes ago, charles28 said:sadly my 135i probably owes me enough that I could have had a 1m
I also have spent 1m money on my 135i
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3 hours ago, Eagle said:Did you happen to get a wheel alignment before all this work? E30's trailing arms aren't strong and bent especially given their age
No unfortunately not, I drove it straight home (bought with a blown head). And took it apart straight away. I have some rear arms I bought off a parts car that I will be using as I am converting to disc brake rear, but also don’t have an alignment report from the car they came off of.
E30 brake linkage in the way of clutch feed line
in General Discussion
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Starting to put my e30 back together but having an issue with the clutch master feed line from the reservoir rubbing/interfering with the brake linkage rod that runs across to the booster. I’m using the oem hose (from pelican parts) and the oem elbow, Sachs clutch master.