elias

Long shot but does anyone have any apex EC-7 wheels in e82 1 series fitment they'd consider selling? Fitting a big brake kit to my 135i and need them, in order to clear the brakes, only wheels ive found definitive info on so far regarding clearing 380mm 4 piston brakes.

Cheers.

Wanted to buy:

Style 68 wheels, rears only 17x8.5 et50. Stock wheels for pre facelift e46 m sport cars.

Hello,

Ive got a 2008 135i, with the CCC flip up IDrive screen, I want to get rid of it. I want to remove the IDrive screen, radio and the heated seat controls as I will be replacing the seats with fixed back seats soon anyways. Anyone here know how to wiring works? Can I simply unplug it all, the code the car to tell it it no longer has I drive? Also is it possible to remove all the wiring for the speakers or is that part of the main harness for the airbags etc?

Any help would be much appreciated, im not particularly knowledgeable on the wiring/coding related stuff and doesn't seem to be much info online. 

Cheers 

WTB: 17x8 wheels

Looking for 17x8 et40/42 or 17x8.5 et45 5x120 wheels

Not too worried about brand but the lighter the better, don't have to be in amazing condition.

Cheers 

Have been looking around trying to figure out a price for the m3 front control arm upgrade kit (TRW), however FCP doesn't seem to be able to ship it to NZ, anyone had a similar issue?

On 10/14/2022 at 9:25 PM, Neil McCauley said:

Just me, or does the full fat M Performance kit look absolutely faaaarken awesome?? 

The rear bumper is light years ahead of the standard item (let's not discuss the over & under exhaust) and the larger front intakes with the side canards make so much more sense. 

Pub discussion with a couple of serial M owners this arvo, and the general consensus was "Why does it take another $30K (and the rest) of bits to perfect an M product?" The cynic / realist in me knows that it's an easy money spinner, but it's almost egregious that bumpers that are so cohesive for the awkward design they're working with are held back as an aftersales product when the main items look so sh*t. 

reminds me of a gr Yaris somehow 

Haven't had much time to do much more to the car recently, but have been enjoying driving it over the last few weeks. Finally got round to flashing the gearbox with the XHP stage 3 flash, shifts noticeably faster now, and feels smoother overall as well, only thing so far is the throttle blips on downshift in sport mode are very aggressive so may have to fine tune them a bit. Overall very happy with it.

would be curious to know this as well

1 hour ago, Neil McCauley said:

Is that the silver or white font on the plates?

They are the silver font ones, a bit hard to tell from the photos

Some good ideas, definitely something to consider, might leave it as is for now, easier to remove it than put it back on...

Haven't done much to the car recently, been very busy with university assignments. Car still needs a wheel alignment, but when I saw that kiwi plates now offered black number plates I was intrigued, then I checked and THE 135 was still available so I had to get it. Plates showed up today, went with the standard black slim as I didn't like the black slim euro design. Mounted them with some scotch foam tape, hardest part was getting them straight and centred. Very happy with how it came out though with the black on black. Contemplating removing the silver 135i badge on the boot now, since it is rather obvious that it is a 135i now with these plates.

Took the car to Hamptons downs for the monthly meet up, and took it out on the track cruise, was great to be able to test it out and see the difference all the work/parts have made, car felt so much more solid and planted under load, much more grip with The LSD especially on corner exit. Bc golds were surprisingly good on the track with only a bit of roll on some very hard cornering. Car felt very balanced, tended to understeer every so slightly when pushed to the limit of grip, but could have easily been corrected with a bit more throttle, or some better front tires, current ones are pretty average. 

Also got the BOV setup properly sorted, turbosmart raceport GenV blow off valve with a custom n55 charge pipe with the turbosmart flange welded on, running orange and purple spring in parallel, softest spring setup that keeps the BOV shut on idle. Vacuum reference is from a 6mm vacuum line connected to an intake manifold MAP sensor spacer, and blocked off the original diverter valve vacuum line.

Car has been running great, didn't overheat on track, and drove more than 300km all over auckland/down to Hamptons, some Piha backroads without a single issue.

Just needs a wheel alignment and possibly a slightly stiffer front sway bar in the future.

Installed the last of the diff bushings, subframe bushing tool worked pretty well, a lot of hollow space in the stock bushing so should help reduce twisting under load now that ive installed solid UHMW ones in place of all the original diff and subframe bushings. 

Got the diff back from Kaye Barrie today, huge thanks to him for getting it done so quickly, and sorting out the diff oil too. Installed it back into the car today, was a bit tricky getting it lined up with the driveshaft, axles and bushings all at the same time but managed to get there eventually with the help of a trolley jack. Removed the rear section of exhaust to make some more room. Got everything bolted back up and torqued everything I could up to spec. Car is back on the ground now, just waiting for the BOV vacuum line adapter still then I will take it for a test drive and see how it goes.

Next thing on the list, is long overdue XHP transmission tune and another wheel alignment, then the car should be pretty well sorted for a fun weekend/backroad car for now.

SOLD

Decided to keep busy while I wait until KBM has time to sort the diff installation, by sorting out my charge pipe situation. Bought a n55 aluminium charge pipe from Hell BM, happens to be ESP one, drilled a big hole in it, got a turbosmart flange welded on and it fits a lot better than the old one did. So for anyone that can't find a charge pipe to fit a specific type of blow off valve, just buy n55 e chassis charge pipe and weld on the flange that comes with your BOV, n55e chassis and n54 is the exact same shape, n55 just doesn't have the dv ports. 

Looks a lot better, am still waiting for 6mm vacuum line adapter to get reference signal to bov then will test to see if I get any leaking or fluttering to see if it has the correct spring in it at the moment.

On 8/15/2022 at 3:33 PM, qube said:

anyone with a 130i and stock exhaust should snap this up. will make a huge difference in sound for very little $.

agreed, was contemplating putting it on my e91 325i, but decided to leave it stock. These do sound excellent on the 130i! 

.Some progress, decided id waited long enough for the rain to stop, so pulled the diff out of the car, on the side of the road, in the rain. Not the most fun I've had working on my car, but managed to get it done. Some of the bolts took a while to take out, probably should have just removed the heat shield. Dropping the diff down in a controlled manner was tricky with only 2 hands, 1 of which was needed to operate the jack, slipped off the jack a bit and crushed my hand slightly but luckily it wasn't quite as heavy as I had anticipated. 

Diff goes to Kayne Barrie early next week to get the Mfactory LSD and new seals put in, in the meantime I will try replace the diff bushings. And then ill put it back in the car, fill it up with some fresh fluid and see how it goes. 

Made a tool for the two smaller diff bushings, just a pipe, some plate and a threaded rod, should do the trick, then put the new ones in the freezer and they should go in easy enough. Thinking I will probably be able to use the subframe busing tool for the large diff bushing. 

On 8/12/2022 at 7:04 PM, jon dee said:

The real question is how hard are you intending to drive the car ? To race at the front of the field you need to push yourself and your car to the limit = higher risk levels = more chance of a crash. In which case you should seriously consider building a racecar with a full cage and modified as you say above.

On the other hand, if you just want to have some fun and are quite happy dicing with someone further down the field, driving within your comfort zone and keeping your car straight, leave it as a road car. After all, cars are designed to provide a decent level of rollover protection. If you would like a little more security, keep your airbags and 3-point belts and install a rollbar. So long as your car is certed for all mods, has rego and WOF, you won't need an Authority Card and all the associated hassle. 

Least ways, that's how I interpret Schedule A – Driver & Vehicle Safety (Part 1) 

Personally I have never put a car on its roof, so I guess I just haven't tried hard enough  

Cheers...

This is a good way of looking at it, probably will never push the car too its absolute limit, as id prefer to keep it and myself in one piece, so a rollbar does sound like a good middle ground. The reason I was considering a full cage was mostly due to not being able to take a passenger as well as not being able to participate in certain events, however a full cage and authority card does seem excessive for the amount of times it will actually be required and for how (not) hard the car will be driven.

Seems like a rollbar is a better option than I had thought...

cheers

Stock muffler off my 2008 135i, sounds great on n52 cars such as 130i. Located auckland, north shore, can deliver if you pay for petrol.

Bit dusty from sitting in the workshop, will give it a clean prior to sale, just seeing if there's any interest first, exhaust flap works as it should no issues, was cut off, but plenty of pipe left to weld onto. All hangers etc still there.

$200 ONO

As above, looking for a aluminum n55 e chassis charge pipe, auckland area preferred, not looking to sped $500 on a new VRSF one as im going to drill/cut it up.

Cheers 

1 hour ago, Neal said:

Full cage means Motorsport authority card and car can only be used for Motorsport events. But you all the protection needed offered by a full cage such as door bars and frontal protection.

Half cage means removing back set and certing car as front passenger only use.  But you can use car regularly such as Sunday drives. Down side it less protection.

Were it gets unclear is if you have a welded in rear section and bolt in front that attaches to welded in front anchor points. Some suggestion that this is a could be a good compromise between dedicated Motorsport car verse something that can also be used on the road.

Bolt in front obviously not as strong as welded in

right I see, I thought you were able to drive a motorsport car on public roads with an authority card since it allows you to obtain a WOF, provided that all modifications meet he required standards? 

So a fully caged motorsport car, with an authority card cannot be used for a sunday drive on public roads? This might be the deciding factor as I definitely want to be able to drive the car on public roads on weekends, as I won't be able to take it to a track every time I want to drive it.

cheers 

1 hour ago, aja540i said:

They are all completely useless UNTIL SOMETHING GOES WRONG. safety shouldn't be about meeting minimum requirements it should be about doing as much as possible to prevent yourself dying. 

this is a good point, I guess what I was saying was useless in the sense of what events you can participate in under msnz regulation, obviously even if not required, it doesn't hurt to have a half cage and the added safety that it provides

Didn't want to derail the other thread so thought id start this here. Am considering putting a rollbar or roll cage into my 135i over summer. Was originally planning on just putting in a basic half cage to keep things simple but be able to use harnesses and have some more safety. however upon doing some research, it seems that there is absolutely no point in a half cage (or rollbar as msnz calls them) in a closed car.

If you want to take a passenger you need a roll cage, if you don't then in club sport events you don't need any form of cage or rollbar. If you want to do a rally event you need a full cage. 

So it seems pointless to go with a half cage/rollbar, either go full cage, bucket seats, harnesses, remove airbags etc then get a authority card or leave the car as is but maybe with some more supportive seats.

Any insight, recommendations or opinions are appreciated. 

Cheers 

14 hours ago, gofaster said:

Hi mate. Dont want to distract too much from this build thread but you can bone up on safety items via Motorsport NZ website, starting with this link. Head to section 4.6 and go from there. There will be other stuff to consider such as seat, belts, and other safety apparel, all referenced in this link.

https://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01a-schedule-a-1/

Cheers, John

cheers thank you, will take a look!

On 8/9/2022 at 9:45 AM, gaijin said:

Single turbo thoughts, strip interior mostly out, half cage installed (MANZ approved), had a ST ex manifold made up, extra high heat ceramic coating via HPC to , turbine housing, CHRA and a silver coating to comp husing.

Car looks fantastic, what my 135i would love to be when it grows up haha. Curious about the half cage, have you got any photos of it? Been debating putting one into my 135i, but it seems that there is almost no point from my research as most MSNZ events that you can do with a half cage you can do without one, and ones you can't do without a cage you need a full cage for? Maybe I am wrong though, I am not sure I want to do a full cage and everything that goes with that, so any info on the half cage would be much appreciated!

cheers