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Ghost Chip

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Posts posted by Ghost Chip

  2. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, Southerner said:

    All of the above should work hopefully to remove them,

    For the future just a couple of things you may or may not know, especially with axle bolts i found,

    1. Make sure all the grime etc is out of the socket so to allen can actually go all the way in and minimize rounding off, alot of axle bolts i find have the first 5mm rounded as people haven't done this

    2. Give the allan or socket a tap/impact, ensures again its all the way in and the shock can also help unseize 

    Thanks! Definitely didn’t do both of those and only realised afterwards (hindsight eh 😅). Didn’t really think since the first bolt was alright.

    Cheers for the suggestions by the way, been busy so will need to put off until this weekend unfortunately.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    56 minutes ago, *Glenn* said:

    What were you using to undo them?

    6mm hex bit and a ratchet

    33 minutes ago, BM WORLD said:

    use a metal punch and a hammer , grind heads off etc , all easy options

    Don’t have either of those, so metal punch may be the cheaper option out of the two

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Ran into a bit of a problem trying to take the pressure plate off over the weekend, conveniently rounded off 3 of them. A bit stuck for ideas. Going to try use vice grips (just trying to source one out) but don’t really know if I’ll have enough space. Could also file some flat edges on the outside of the bolt to get more grip (again would need to source out a files). If those don’t work, my last resort was thinking of stick welding a hex nut over the top of it and use the nut (and again will need to source stick welder as well).

    Attached some photos for reference.

    B1F60580-EE92-4A9A-A74D-8D4FC637CFD0.jpeg

    A5774E43-E8F1-4D61-91D7-B77F5305A922.jpeg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Looking for any of these:

     - Bentley’s BMW 3 Series (E30) Service Manual: 1984-1990

     - BMW E30 - 3 Series Restoration Bible by Andrew Everett

     - BMW 3-Series (E30) Performance Guide: 1982-1994 by Robert Bowen

     - How to Modify BMW E30 3 Series: for High-performance and Competition (SpeedPro Series) by Ralph Hosier


    Please send me a message

    Cheers

  12. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Cab said:

    Yeah but look at them, they look like crap 😂. I’m the type of person who would drop $20k on a low mileage example (because I did), but wouldn’t look twice at either of those. Big difference between a cared for, garaged, supermarket trip once a week example and one that’s sat outside deserted for 20 years. Apples and oranges. 

    Also, I’m regards to a paint correction needing doing, it must have been done recently because it’s spotless. 

    Anyways! I’ll take proper photos and put up a showroom thread sometime this coming week. 
     

    Cheers 
     

    If paint’s not due, surely a manual swap? Or are you planning to just keep it bone stock.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    13 minutes ago, leichtbau said:

    I'd get it one piece at a time and it wouldn't cost me a dime

    I’m assuming this is sarcasm. Nah, that’s not really the plan. There’s a few people that I’m waiting on that I’d want to put this drivetrain in. I’m also waiting on the seller to contact me when he’s back from his holiday on the white one with the m52 engine. An opportunity came up to buy this (before I saw the white one) at a good price so bought it and if I don’t use it then can sell it as there are people looking for b25+g260 anyway. Generally better to buy/sell a car when you don’t need to. And since I can sell it off and either not lose any or only a bit of money anyway then thought why not. I’m not planning to buy anything else separately.

    If you don’t agree then feel free to share your thoughts. I’m genuinely interested to hear other people’s thoughts/opinions - literally what this thread is about. It would be more helpful and would help me learn more than a sarcastic comment. If you don’t want to then that’s fine too. Cheers.

  19. Posted · Edited by Ghost Chip · Report reply

    32 minutes ago, HalfJobHarry said:

    Yes. Auckland Eastern Suburbs. PM me. You'd need a Ute/Pickup or similar and will be a pig to lift...

    🤔 Does anyone have a Ute I can borrow? 😆

    Alternatively, will a trailer work? Or a station wagon?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, Olaf said:

    No.  Austere models - now referred to as 'poverty spec' are low-cost, optioned down, to keep the price low.  It usually added $1000 or thereabouts to the price to add an autobox.  

    So no, the 'luxury' of Automatic has no place in a poverty spec car of the 70's or 80's.

    Go buy a car already!

    PS - poverty spec is a pretty ironic reference for a cheap 4 cyl BMW that cost more than half the price of a three bedroom house in a second or third-tier suburb back around '87-90.

    Very interesting, makes sense I guess. And yes, it is ironic. One of the sellers that I’ve talked to said he bought his house for 15k back in the day.

    Haha, I will, I will.

    • Haha 1

  25. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, Olaf said:

    what, so it blends in those obviously stuck-on arch extensions to look 'factory'?  The whole look is based on paying homage to race cars, while getting a wildly extended track 'street legal', and it works.  Frenching-in extensions will probably crack anyway, which is why it went out of vogue.

    Nah, I get that they’re paying homage to race cars and not wanting a factory look. But personally, if I was ever going to do that (which I would probably prefer not to), I would rather mold it on. Although, the rivets does have a rugged appeal to it that’s also nice.

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