Spinner99

I managed to order another set of the same hoses I already have so now have a spare set. BMW Part Number = 34306792253 Brand = ATE After my stuff up I'd double check the numbers yourself, but I think they're #11 in this diagram (I meant to order 7). https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UF92-EUR-06-2006-E87-BMW-130i&diagId=34_1402 . it looks like they fit lots of other models too. $65 for Bimmersport members - that's what they cost me excluding shipping.

fcp parcel arrived today!!! A couple of things I've learned over the last few days 1. FCP will only use UPS now (well that's what they told me anyway) 2. UPS have a contract with Aramex to deliver their stuff in NZ (according to the person I spoke to at UPS). I won't say never, but I think I'll probably go back to Pelican, it's a bit more expensive but they currently let you choose from DHL, FedEx or USPS.

100%, complaint is already underway. I'll never use UPS again. Parcel update, it scanned as arriving in the Aramex Wellington depot this morning, so that took 7 days to get from Auckland to Wellington Do you think I could go down there and pick it up? I've got a mental image of them having such a backlog they wouldn't even be able to find it if I asked them to. By contrast, a package I thought was coming from a NZ company came out of China using DHL. It was picked up on 2 December in China and delivered to my door today. Very happy with that!

Hi There Nah it got put into the too hard basket pretty quickly. I've just wrapped it in some foam wrap and left it in the head liner and forgotten about it Yeah still Japanese maps in my cars too so no idea if changing it would fix that either. Good luck!

Yep it's a VICS Antenna. I went through the same thing as you a while ago...

FCP care package, took 5 days to get from New York to Auckland, who do the genius's at UPS in Auckland decide to give it to to make the last 600km to Wellington? Aramex.

Germany's looking good

Just throwing this one out there in case there's a remote chance it may help. short summary = diesel crank no start with a dodgy sounding crank, relative compression test showed 1 cylinder needing more power from the starter, problem was a stuck open injector flooding and hydrolocking one cylinder.

^^This. Flat/bad batteries can cause all kinds of crazy things to happen that you wouldn't think would be battery related. Hopefully its just that. Did you purchase from a dealer? If so you're covered by the Consumer Guarantees Act and can ask for them to resolve the issue for you and should not replace any parts but just contact them instead. If you purchased privately read on. If it's not the battery maybe a starting point is to google "JBE" or "Junction Box Electronic" symptoms and see if the symptoms of a bad JBE line up with the symptoms you're experiencing or not. I'd also suggest picking one problem that's on the easier side to diagnose and figuring it out. e.g. if you can get to the windscreen wipers and switches for them etc that's probably a lot easier than trying to get to the gearbox wiring. As it happens I have a couple of spare batteries lying around I was about to put up for sale, so if you don't have access to a known good spare I'm happy to let you try one of mine as a test and see if it sorts the issue for you. PM me if you're interested.

Feel free to start a thread with your trouble codes. Do you know what scanner were they using? I don't know but I do see on other forums people suggesting some scanners don't read all specific BMW codes. I'm still happy to plug mine into your car if you want a second opinion.

Bugger. I have a code reader if you need a hand to see if there are any fault codes that might indicate what the issue is. Send me a PM if you want a hand.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot. I'm going to be generous and assume the tech didn't notice all the things that changed or stopped working. However once they do know it's on them to put it right. My $0.05 is they knew or should have known that one of the side effects of what they were doing is what happened, therefore it's something they should have an informed discussion with you about and got an approval to proceed. If they aren't able to fix it themselves, then they need to arrange for someone that can to fix it up and put it right for you. It's the putting right that counts...

Hi Nik, Did you buy it from a dealer? If so you can just take it back under the Consumer Guarantees Act and ask them to sort the issue.

That's an interesting looking contraption! Yeah I used the cups to do a few bushings. On this diagram https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AW33-USA-09-2000-E46-BMW-325i&diagId=33_0840 I think I did 2, 3 and 4 using the cups (basically all the wheel side ones I could get to). I purchased the inner wishbone bushings too but put that in the too hard basket at the time (6 and 14 I think they were). I've still got those parts lying around too.

Hi @Vass I got it from these guys https://nsttool.en.alibaba.com/ . Back then Youshop had a China warehouse so I got it sent there then on to NZ.

Yep - I have this cup set I used to do the rear bushings on my E46 Touring a few years ago. I'm assuming that's the car you want it for? It weighs about 5kg (for shipping purposes)

Interesting the same thing for sale on their own website is twice the price https://runautoparts.com.au/mann-oil-filter-hu816x-4-pack-hu-816-x-4pcs

I genuinely don't understand people that don't give the car a good clean inside and out when it's up for sale

Hey I'm writing this as I had the left rear window regulator go on my e87 this week and this was the post that came up when I searched. The answer to the questions are it's a super easy job, It took me about an hour all up. I watched two YouTube video's along the way which I'll link below. Tools required PH2 phillips Torx 20 Torx 25 (to swap the motor over) 10mm socket. Universal multi tool (flat blade screw driver) Optional tools Trim tools A pick Step 1. I pulled out the old regulator and confirmed it's life was over (details in the video). Step 2. I did a bit of a search online and found options via the UK or locally. I ended up ordering a new regulator from SD European in Hamilton for around $150 NZD. It also has a 2 year warrenty. https://shop.sdeuropean.co.nz/products/bmw-e87-1-series-2003-to-2012-left-rear-window-regulator-lifter-teilex-51357138467-sd81460?_pos=1&_sid=c4b963a44&_ss=r They promised overnight shipping and it did turn up overnight! (Photo below of the old and the new next to each other). I didn't trust tape to hold up the window so I put a towel in the door and lowered the glass onto it while i waited for the part to arrive (with the car in the garage out of the rain). Step 3. I enlisted an apprentice for the install. We installed the new regulator, including swapping the motor over. Step 4. We had to do the reset procedure for the anti trap thing. It was possible to move the window up & down without the switch installed by using the drivers door controls, but while the anti trap thing was angry it would only move the window a couple of inches at a time. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the window switch plugged back in. We couldn't do it in the end and ended up popping the switch out of the door (and damaging one of the holder tabs in the process). How to replace the regulator How to reset the anti-trap error (no fault codes in ISTA for this, just the error on the dash)

might be one in here @Cammsport ? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/3791791717

If it's a low torque bolt (e.g. like 8-10 Nm) you *might* be able to get away with an alternate compound. Here's a video of a guy testing thread inserts against some other options in case it gives you some ideas

Oh awesome! Someone I knew once called Repco "Rip every poor c*** off"... Here's some other options. FCPEuro.com ~ $80 USD inc FedEx to NZ for a set of 6 Bosch FR7NPP332's (not sure if your an NGK or Bosch fan sorry). Runautoparts.com.au $141AUD inc shipping to NZ for a set of the same plugs. I've used FCP & Runautoparts before and can vouch for them. I found another website that was cheaper AND in NZ but I haven't used them and the google reviews are a bit mixed so up to you if you want to give them a try or not. $116NZD inc shipping from these people. https://jbhauto.co.nz/products/bosch-fr7npp332-double-platinum-spark-plug

The reason I ask is one day my old E46 325i was a crank no start. What had happened prior to that was I wanted to mow the lawn so I started it up, pulled it out the garage and turned it off. Got the lawn mower out, mowed the lawn, put the lawn mower back, started the car up and put it back in the garage. Next morning I jumped in the car to go to work and crank no start. I didn't have a code reader back then and couldn't figure it out and had it towed to the local garage. This is 10 years old so hopefully I'm getting it all right, but my recollection is the mechanic said there were codes for misfires on multiple cylinders. The mechanic told me he pulled the spark plugs, put a squirt of oil in each cylinder, fitted new spark plugs and it fired up. His explanation was that during cold start up the car adds extra fuel, and he thought that the extra fuel had washed away the oil on the cylinder walls resulting in no seal between the pistons and the cylinder wall, which meant a lack of compression in those cylinders. His advice was if i ever started the car up to wait until the temperature needle moved before turning it off, and that advice did me well for the rest of the time i owned that vehicle I'm not sure if that will lead you down the garden path or help, but I see @jon dee is also thinking plugs could be the problem. My extra $0.05 is if you do decide to quirt some oil into each cylinder to use some type of tube so you don't get oil on the threads for the spark plugs. And be prepared for some smoke on startup too as that oil gets burned off.

Yeah good point, I should have checked before. There's only one sensor listed in the parts diagram. sorry! https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=GE22-EUR-12-1996-E38-BMW-728i&diagId=11_1480

I had a look on realoem and it looks like the M52 is a twin cam engine. is that right? If so it would have two cam angle sensors, one for the inlet camshaft and one for the exhaust camshaft. Reading your story it sounds like you've only replaced one, are you sure you replaced the correct one?