Spinner99

I genuinely don't understand people that don't give the car a good clean inside and out when it's up for sale

Hey I'm writing this as I had the left rear window regulator go on my e87 this week and this was the post that came up when I searched. The answer to the questions are it's a super easy job, It took me about an hour all up. I watched two YouTube video's along the way which I'll link below. Tools required PH2 phillips Torx 20 Torx 25 (to swap the motor over) 10mm socket. Universal multi tool (flat blade screw driver) Optional tools Trim tools A pick Step 1. I pulled out the old regulator and confirmed it's life was over (details in the video). Step 2. I did a bit of a search online and found options via the UK or locally. I ended up ordering a new regulator from SD European in Hamilton for around $150 NZD. It also has a 2 year warrenty. https://shop.sdeuropean.co.nz/products/bmw-e87-1-series-2003-to-2012-left-rear-window-regulator-lifter-teilex-51357138467-sd81460?_pos=1&_sid=c4b963a44&_ss=r They promised overnight shipping and it did turn up overnight! (Photo below of the old and the new next to each other). I didn't trust tape to hold up the window so I put a towel in the door and lowered the glass onto it while i waited for the part to arrive (with the car in the garage out of the rain). Step 3. I enlisted an apprentice for the install. We installed the new regulator, including swapping the motor over. Step 4. We had to do the reset procedure for the anti trap thing. It was possible to move the window up & down without the switch installed by using the drivers door controls, but while the anti trap thing was angry it would only move the window a couple of inches at a time. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the window switch plugged back in. We couldn't do it in the end and ended up popping the switch out of the door (and damaging one of the holder tabs in the process). How to replace the regulator How to reset the anti-trap error (no fault codes in ISTA for this, just the error on the dash)

might be one in here @Cammsport ? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/3791791717

If it's a low torque bolt (e.g. like 8-10 Nm) you *might* be able to get away with an alternate compound. Here's a video of a guy testing thread inserts against some other options in case it gives you some ideas

Oh awesome! Someone I knew once called Repco "Rip every poor c*** off"... Here's some other options. FCPEuro.com ~ $80 USD inc FedEx to NZ for a set of 6 Bosch FR7NPP332's (not sure if your an NGK or Bosch fan sorry). Runautoparts.com.au $141AUD inc shipping to NZ for a set of the same plugs. I've used FCP & Runautoparts before and can vouch for them. I found another website that was cheaper AND in NZ but I haven't used them and the google reviews are a bit mixed so up to you if you want to give them a try or not. $116NZD inc shipping from these people. https://jbhauto.co.nz/products/bosch-fr7npp332-double-platinum-spark-plug

The reason I ask is one day my old E46 325i was a crank no start. What had happened prior to that was I wanted to mow the lawn so I started it up, pulled it out the garage and turned it off. Got the lawn mower out, mowed the lawn, put the lawn mower back, started the car up and put it back in the garage. Next morning I jumped in the car to go to work and crank no start. I didn't have a code reader back then and couldn't figure it out and had it towed to the local garage. This is 10 years old so hopefully I'm getting it all right, but my recollection is the mechanic said there were codes for misfires on multiple cylinders. The mechanic told me he pulled the spark plugs, put a squirt of oil in each cylinder, fitted new spark plugs and it fired up. His explanation was that during cold start up the car adds extra fuel, and he thought that the extra fuel had washed away the oil on the cylinder walls resulting in no seal between the pistons and the cylinder wall, which meant a lack of compression in those cylinders. His advice was if i ever started the car up to wait until the temperature needle moved before turning it off, and that advice did me well for the rest of the time i owned that vehicle I'm not sure if that will lead you down the garden path or help, but I see @jon dee is also thinking plugs could be the problem. My extra $0.05 is if you do decide to quirt some oil into each cylinder to use some type of tube so you don't get oil on the threads for the spark plugs. And be prepared for some smoke on startup too as that oil gets burned off.

Yeah good point, I should have checked before. There's only one sensor listed in the parts diagram. sorry! https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=GE22-EUR-12-1996-E38-BMW-728i&diagId=11_1480

I had a look on realoem and it looks like the M52 is a twin cam engine. is that right? If so it would have two cam angle sensors, one for the inlet camshaft and one for the exhaust camshaft. Reading your story it sounds like you've only replaced one, are you sure you replaced the correct one?

nooooo not the parts cannon! It's a pretty basic way to look at it and I'm ignoring timing etc, but fuel + air + spark = boom so it'll be one of those three things, but the cause behind it may be more fun to work out. It sounds like you have fuel under control, Have you got a way to check for spark? The flash way would be with an oscilloscope, but you can probably do it with a multimeter. The reasons behind no spark are likely ECU related and could be any sensor not working, a wiring issue, water damage or a million other things. And finally you could try disconnecting the mas airflow sensor. I *think* the engine computer will use known values if the MAF isn't connected so you could use that as a way to see if it's an air issue. Random question, but apart from moving the car into the garage, what was the previous run or two before that? e.g. were they short 30 second runs to get it in/out of the garage? Or a long drive?

Yeah maybe! On mine the adjustment is mechanical, you have to remove the iDrive monitor and there's adjuster bolts behind that inside the dash. That's what the dealer was using when they did the adjustment for me last week

yeah but there isn't really anything in there. i can adjust the brightness, and the only other options are which options to show on the HUD (speed, cruise control and check control messages). There isn't any adjustment options like up/down side to side etc. My car is a March 2007 build and has the CCC Idrive which might have fewer options?

Thanks @freaknout It's definitely a HUD windscreen, I released the scuttle tray and lifted it enough to confirm that it has "HUD" written into it on the drivers side at the bottom. I didn't know about the rain test, I'll give that a try next time it's raining which hopefully shouldn't be too long away.

Lol thanks! I'm not 100% sure if you're serious, but if you are standby to standby I might take you up on that offer if I can't find another one closer

Yeah great question! The long story is similar to the one @tmase had Genuine screen fitted in April by Novus. The HUD was blurry. A replacement windscreen was sourced and recently replaced by the dealer about 2-3 weeks ago. It was still blurry though. It's definitely a HUD windscreen, and I've just returned from the dealer adjusting the hud but although it's improved, I just don't think it's quite right.

Hi There, Is there anyone in the Wellington region with an E60/E61 that has a heads up display? I'm having some trouble with the hud in my E61 after the windscreen was replaced. It doesn't look right to me but the local dealer is telling me they think there's nothing wrong and it's just how the "old" hud's are. I was wondering if there was a kind soul out there that would be willing to take a look at mine and let me look at theirs? I'm looking for a second opinion and to be able to compare mine with the same model to see if it's just me. Thanks!

I wouldn't be too worried about the Y (or T) valve inhibiting cooling performance. Those hoses are fairly small and they return to the expansion tank so my guess is their purpose is to act as an escape/bleed for air trapped at the top of the heads rather than cooling of the engine.

Nice, good to hear it's all sorted! Was it possible for you to do everything with the Intake Manifold still in place or did you need to remove it in the end?

Just adding a bonus photo for you of the Y connector I took out (it literally came out in pieces) sitting next to a new one that's in one piece

I have a 2007 N62B48 and had a coolant leak that I first spotted as a trail of water coming out about 1 foot behind the drivers side front wheel (first photo attached). When looking up from under the car the coolant was coming down the exhaust and dripping to the floor from there. I was was looking for a coolant hose around the bank of the engine leaking but I couldn't find the source at the back of the engine and eventually took the intake manifold off to get a better look. I felt quite silly when I found it was the Y connector way up the front of the engine that was leaking. I replaced it with a brass one from supercheap. Here's some pictures in case they help 1. The first sign of the leak, coming out behind the drivers side front wheel. 2. A photo with the Intake Manifold off, there's coolant everywhere, but I put some arrows in the photo to show where and which direction it was going to get out the back of the engine. The leak was filling up the channels either side of the valley (but mainly the Cylinder 1-4 side) and was overflowing down the back onto the exhaust. 3. The photo is a bit dark but hopefully you can see I just wiggled the hose and the y connector snapped clean off leaving part of itself inside the small hose attached to the Cylinder 1-4 bank. If you have the throttle body off you should be able to replace the Y connector from there, there's no need to take the intake manifold off if you don't want to. I thought I was looking for something up the back of the engine and wasn't having much luck with an inspection camera so was trying to get more visibility by removing it. It never occurred to me the leak could be way up the front of the engine when it was coming out way down the back. Worst case scenario it can't hurt to replace the Y connector you've eliminated that as a future problem. The plastic was super brittle so it's just a matter of time.

Question of the day - how long does it take to change a lightbulb on a BMW?

I've had one claim with AA. When I rang to make a claim they kept on banging on about how I can take the car wherever I like to get it fixed. When I did that the quote from who I chose was higher than their repairer's quote and they came back at me with this part of their policy saying I needed either take it to their repairer, or if I do take it to who I'd like to take it to I need to pay the difference between the quotes. This is the part of the policy they sent me. Paying the costs to repair your vehicle We can choose to pay the cost to repair your vehicle to a standard comparable to the condition of your vehicle immediately before the event. We will pay the lowest of the: reasonable cost of the repairs as estimated by our assessor amount we would have paid if we arranged the repair ourselves. We will not be responsible for the quality of workmanship provided by the repairer. We will not provide any guarantee relating to the repair. It's available on this page. https://www.aainsurance.co.nz/manage-policy/policy-documents/comprehensive-car-insurance-policy-document-before-22-may-2022 I ended up taking to their people, and they did a good job so no complaints there. My other $0.05 is they keep trying to low ball me on agreed value each year when the policy renews. They're probably not they only company to do it but it still annoys me

It's hard to tell from a photo but your module doesn't look too bad compared to the OP's one. If you're lucky cleaning off the green crusties might be enough to sort the issue? Have a watch of this video that was done recently regarding some water damaged modules in an Alpina and see if you think that might be applicable to you/your ECU. To be clear I haven't tried this before and have no idea on if you're making things better or worse by trying what Alex did.

Excellent all's well that ends well

Was it third time lucky in the end?

Hi Hayden! Yeah sure. Someone's reached out to me already about the rack but they haven't paid for it or picked it up yet, but most likely it's spoken for. If you you still want the hose how's $20 inc shipping? Are you ok if the hose is bent for shipping? If not it's going to need a large box Cheers Jon