Palazzo

$855.

Belongs to a guy I work with.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-399872729.htm

VW wrecker in Drury, can't remember business name, owner is Rob. Yellow pages will help.

Hmm, interesting to know, did he get it from a dealer?

What process does he go through to get the refund on the VAT?

Yes, from a dealer who was fully up to speed with it, as was the RS5 dealer.

Not sure what the exact process was, I'll ask. The dealer handled it as far as I know. It's only just on the boat in the last week.

Another friend is waiting for his '07 CLS500 to arrive from the UK, 2nd hand car. VAT qualified.

They are available.

A friends RS5 arrived last week from the UK. As a new car, it has the VAT removed and GST added at this end.

GST is calculated on the "CIF", Cost of vehicle, Insurance, Freight".

A VAT qualifying vehicle is (I'm not 100% on this, but fairly sure) a vehicle (second hand) that was first bought as a business vehicle and had VAT paid on it. This is therefore able to be claimed back.

Have to say the whole process was pretty simple.

From memory, they must be visible from 50m, which that looks like it would be.

Hope you enjoy it.

I fitted M3 wheels to the 328i, called the insurance company and they said don't worry about it. I asked them to make a note anyway on the policy, which they did. It's always worth remembering that an insurance company will not pay a claim if they are technically able not to. Ask the people in Chch with houses in the red zone.

I think sideways over the kerb (hence dislodged kerb stone) then backed it in at the end. Nice work in any event.

Snapped a shot of the smashed Audi for you to have a look at, this was this morning, and its been there since Friday... Weird

I have a couple of shots too, with the number plates still on.

Ex UK car, rust? I don't recall seeing an E32 with rust, but there must be some.

An Audi A4 stuffed backwards into the bush, city end of Okahu Bay. Faulty Asian good luck banner in window.

$2.5k. Does that include labour?

Then you have the brakes, air con and whatever else was on the list.

Not being negative, just don't buy something that will break you.

Why don't you at least look at the one someone suggested in your other thread?

From memory, a '99 or '00 328i, NZ new, 82kms, full leather, some history and asking $10k ono, going overseas.

It's got to be better than the ones you're looking at with 200kms and faults galore.

Had the car in for some basic work last week, went to check oil/water today, bonnet release handle was in up position and is no longer connected to release cable? How do I fix it? How do I open bonnet in meantime?

Thanks Glenn, thought that might be the case from the stepping on the pedal making it work.

I had this come up on the display, when standing on the brake pedal, no brake lights, but if you stood on the pedal several times in a row, they would work.

Took it to an auto electricians, checked, found no faults except for 3 black bulbs, replaced, no check message.

Drove home, "Brake Light Circuit" warning comes on again. All brake lights working fine.

Ideas before I take it back?

Anyone else see the 1M in white with CSL stripes travelling north at about 6.25pm just before market road turn off?

Almost crashed my car gorking at it....

Saw it last night, must have been just after that getting off NWestern at Western Springs. First One series I've liked the look of.

Following up on the other 4 problems and feeling good after fitting my recently acquired M Contours with new tyres, I found this morning that I have an oil leak from (I think) the rear drivers side of the engine (328i), which is dripping onto the exhaust.

Any ideas? Hard fix? Easy?

So it's the easy one? Can do it when I bring it down? Prob Tues arvo.

Cheers.

It's a '96. I'm sure the door handle will break if I keep yanking on it. Have you got a good one Brent?

Obviously this is my week for things BMW to go wrong (E36 coolant leak, E30 rear lights failed, gear shift in E30 difficult) and now this.

When I try and open the drivers door, the handle is very stiff and occasionally won't open at all. I've watched the window and it doesn't seem to drop as it normally does when you pull the handle. I'm assuming this is the microswitch (?) in the door not working properly?

Any ideas on where, how hard and how much to fix?

Anyone? As it does it when it's off and feels like it's sticking rather than a mechanical problem, do I assume selector rod/bushings something similar? Where to take it close to central Akld?