E30-323ti

Have a look at Rays (HellBM) E46 M3 Convertable with the E39 M5 engine. He used the complete E39 cross-member steering and suspension in the E46 (with a lot of fabrication work). Given E38's and E39's are very similar, this would be you best guide to what to expect. Someone else on here recently put an M60 into an E46 wagon, and made a neat dry-sump setup to drop into the E46.

Good stuff! Decent platform to build up from. Keep us posted on your progress.

Depends on the type of coils, but think you've got the jist. If they are individual (say like a M50 or a *JZ or RB*) you will have 2 coils on each channel, of which you use 3 to run wasted spark. If you get some twin output coils, '90s 6cyl fords/holdens have these as do the mitsi 4G63's (Evo/VR-4) & toyota 4A-GZE's, like the below, you only need 3 of them. Being dumb coils, you will also need a 3chl ignitor. Once you've done all that it's almost cheaper buying 6 smart coils, which could still run in wasted spark configuration on an older G4/G4+ storm or new Atom.

Are you comparing to the latest G4+ Storm, in the black case? As these have 8 inj & ign drivers, so you could run sequential injection and individual coils on a 6cyl. With the older G4+ (silver/blue) and the G4 you only get 4 of each, which means group injection 3inj x 2 channel (same as the old L-jet), and wasted spark 2coils x 3 channels. You can also do the same on the G4+ Atom for less $$, but with a few less aux input/outputs.

...and why not a full carbon fiber body. Can certainly see the attraction of the 'metal working' with them being AL, you've certainly developed a flair in the art. Been keeping track of progress via facebook - amazing work!

Given the size is comparable to that used in the E39 V8's (albeit a little thinner) which are a couple of hunderd KG's heavier, they will be fine for the certification process - provided you don't use the worst pads money could buy.

IMO they are a bit meh... Look like an early 2000's JZX110 Verosa in general shape/silhouette. Too slab-ish, massive expanse of steel between the top of the rear wheel arch and the windows / boot lid. Wheels look like cheap after market jobbies with tyres that are too low in profile, and tacky red brake calipers.

+1 and does it work on suede? my mod-08 is looking a bit grubby

You bet! they came from you if you can cast your mind back that far brent

Yeah, the whole subframe went in as they (late model ones) have a lower sweep angle (12° vs 15°) than the E30, and the toe-control links. Made the rear end so much more stable for cornering (esp. when bumpy), and straight line traction as it doesn't toe-in when it squats. [edit: not that it squats too much anyway with #350 springs in the rear]

Thanks for the update, certainly a nice outcome. When I did mine, I went with a complete E28 rear-end and converted the rear to coil-overs, so she's plenty strong for the old E30. This way I also got the benefit of better trailing arm geometry, and the ease of 'pick-a-part' direct replacements.

Easiest way to check the diff size is to look at the 'Final Drive, Gasket Set' tab in RealOEM/BMWfans.info It will say the diff type against the rear cover & gasket items. For the 330d it is listed as TYP 215/220k (big case) For the 330i it is listed as TYP 188k (medium case)

Pretty sure they have a Typ 215/220k diff and the same (big) brakes as the 330i Quick trip to RealOEM will set you straight. [edit]That is what RealOEM says, Couldn't help myself[/edit]

Looks pretty trick back there. Did you make up a spare set of the modified trailing arms, nothing worse than not having spares at hand... Nice to see the lower shock mounts in (what appears to be) double shear, it's hard to see but did you run into trouble with extending the shock mount back and the brake caliper bracket/adaptor? Were the 300M axles off the shelf from another model or did you have to make them also to length? Looks like the CV's have been 'lightened' also? Great work!

Speaking from my experience also, do not go for a 1pc driveshaft. I went through 4 variations (diameter / thickness) to get the vibration out of mine to no avail. Went back to a 2pc and is smooth as silk.

Agree that pic does look odd. A long time ago I had the Kings Lows with Koni Yellow's and it was never like that. They were too soft though. Prior to them I had Jamex Springs which were terrible. Be careful putting cylindrical type springs, as they will coilbind before the bumpstops and destroy your trailing arms, if you are lucky enough to not get thrown off the road. There is a reason the stock springs are barrel shaped. With that in mind, I would look at the voltgand VSS springs, TC Kline used to sell these, and they come in a variety of spring rates and possibly lengths.

Just remember, as with any project, it is most likely to cost 2x as much as you think and take twice as long, so factor that in also

Looks good IMHO. Could do with a little more 'low' though.

O' thanks Is an oldie c/2003 when I first got her going/road legal. Was thinking I need to find the p'shop file and make an updated version, but figured I should put efforts in getting it going again...

Would have been good to see what was right up his date too, kept his eagle eyes on the mirrors a lot. Love that he was so comfortable in the ole M3 he could still drive it like a demon, carving up the fleet on M1's (or half scaring them off the track rather).

Maybe valve guide seals (different from valve clearances). I presume you've decelerated to 60/70k buy just closing the throttle, before putting your foot-up-it again. This engine vacuum could be enough to pull the oil past the valve guides. To give that theory a real test, find a decent hill to engine brake down, and check out the back when you re-apply the throttle at the bottom. Oil smoke is generally a bluish-grey colour, over fueling will be blackish with water being white (steam). Plain old grey could be just 'sh*t' getting blasted out of the exhaust, could pay to check that a muffler or cat hasn't disintegrated, but this would normally have some loss of performance (blockage) and/or some increase in noise.

Given your tight constraints I'd be looking at a 'log' type manifold and use 1.5" sch40 bends. Don't waste your $ on the 45°'s when you can get 2 of them out of a 90° bend. Re: Cutting discs, buy bulk it saves a heap of $$. I've always used 'Smith and Arrow' For a box of 25 115x1.0mm discs it is ~$20

You could also take a look at what crunchy did in his M50 E34, by standing the motor up a little more you can open up some more space. You may also need to think about having the turbo mounted high and forward where there is some space.

E36 M3 are 315x28 (handed L/R with curved vanes, 2pc w/floating hats if you go Euro) E46 330 are 325x25 (plain venting, not directional) E46 M3 are 328x28 (handed L/R with curved vanes, 2pc w/floating hats if you go Euro)

That is an NZ market issue, not that good tyres don't existing in that size, just not that many cars in NZ that require them Vs the common 235/45's found on every commodore & falcon since the early 2000's. Is your M3 running the 7.5" rims on all for corners? If you can't get the tyres you want (prices) and don't want to import some yourself (tirerack), then a 225/45 might be a compromise to consider also being a factory supplied size for the E36 on 7.5" rims.