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Very nice detailed thread in Bimmerforums Rogan. Hope to listen to it sometime in the future!

You said it yourself. Put the stock headlights back in and if you really like angel eyes, buy the halo type that get attached to the inner lenses of the original headlights. Looks way better. I'm sure some ricer out there will buy yours.

I'm guessing that the battery is flat. Sometimes a flat battery results in random codes - try charging it.

I support the car crushing tactic. I wouldn't worry too much if you failed a WOF and you could prove you were on the way to the mechanic to get it fixed. At the end of the day the car crushing is to scare the people who won't/can't get certs for their illegal mods off the road, and it will certainly work. To anyone who think certs are stupid - they are there for a reason and that is to certify your car is safe. If you can't pay $500 for a cert how do you afford all your wheels, expensive tyres, springs, tail light spray paint, sounds etc? If you do uncerted mods your car may end up being less safe than if you had left it stock. If you can't afford $500 - stop modding your car, save up for a few years, get your priorities right. Then DO IT THE RIGHT WAY.

Have heard that the silicone sprays look great but dry out the tyres. Personally use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Great stuff and will work on the dashboard, etc. It doesn't look too shiny (but will make the tyres look new) and when sprayed on interior bits does not feel greasy either - I hate greasy dashboards.

Welcome Ben! I switched from Pennzoil to Castrol R Synthetic 5W30 (now EDGE 5W-30) for my E36 320i. Filter will cost ~$20 at the dealer. You can see the pricing in Team McMillan's online shop. Pricing should be similar at Jerry Clayton. I would recommend you go genuine BMW, why save a few dollars (if any) buying some aftermarket filter? The BMW filter will also come with a new O-ring and rubber gasket for the oil filter housing cover (at least, that was the case for my 6 cylinder 320, I don't know if the 4 cylinder is any different). You'll need to jack up the car to get to the sump plug. The pin trick should work fine, but if you don't succeed, I have the Peake reset tool.

More air, more power!

It looks ok to me, though I have no idea about the price. FWIW, I think I read somewhere that the E46 320d was BMW's best selling E46 in the UK.

Probably the Jatco A5S300J.

In the city - drove behind you from Gore St onto Customs St. Don't hesitate to post up if you have any questions about your car, someone should be able to help you and you will learn more in no time.

Welcome to the club - I was driving behind your car a few weeks ago, rolled up beside it to check it out, love how it looks. Seems to have a fair bit of ACS bits on it, what Breyton parts does it have on? Not a fan of the chrome bits and door sills - they look tacky IMHO. It would look better without them - I can see it pulling off the dark aggressive look very well.

Nice, it's going to look good! Yeah I've heard about that as well, people argue that BMW put that in because of emissions reasons - they say to drive it immediately so the car warms up faster and produces less emissions. I would think that letting it warm up by idling would be easiest on the engine etc though, but it's not something I'd worry about.

The car's looking good Jamie. Nice location and nice pics!

Hey Nick, the E39 has a remote correct? If so try this and see if it works - from Bimmerforums: - Holding the unlock button on your KEY will roll your windows down. - Holding the lock button on your KEY will do nothing. BMW will not activate this feature due to liability concerns. (this is in US, apparently it is activated for Europe) - Holding your key in the unlock position in your key hole will roll down the windows. - Holding the key in the lock position in your key hole will roll the windows up. And apparently holding the trunk release button will activate the alarm - panic mode.

Been following his posts on other forums for awhile, they are always a fantastic read, a true enthusiast.

Wow Will it's gorgeous, don't usually like the Type IV on the E36, too modern for the body shape I thought, but I really like the combination of mods on your car. She looks new. Bummer - hope you can get the car on the road asap. Must be painful waiting to drive your E60 M5!

Not my car Ron! I wish Miles' car would surely look good with the M wheels though (I still have them). Have only tested it on a 1996 323i coupe but I'm fairly sure it's made possible by a module that was in the later cars. Tested on a 1992 320i sedan, didn't work.

Knob is the same on Motorsports and non-Motorsports AFAIK... could be wrong, not many manual examples around. Woodgrain likely to be an option. You can tell a Motorsport by it being slightly lower, having the M bodykit and Motorsport wheels, and it should have thicker sway bars. Most, like yours, have the black M interior from the M3 and have sports seats with extendable knee bolsters, like yours. Have a Clarion mp3 headunit for sale with CD changer that I can let go for a fair price if you like - was out of my old E36 so plugs right in. The display can match the BMW orange Good point Grant, I see later ones had them, but I've seen 1995-1996 328s without it. They were Japanese imports, not sure if that makes a difference. I know what you mean - it's a black plastic handle right? Wondered that about my old car as well. If you find out let me know!

Welcome!

Welcome! Love the car. Yes, the key trick will lower the sunroof too. Yours is a genuine Motorsport.

Pete, just out of interest what's energy control?

Ashkan, if battery is in the trunk the power cable will run from driver's side into the engine bay, so run the RCAs down the passenger side. Good grounding point would be the stock grounding point, remove your rear seat backs and it'll be behind the rubber mat. Can't miss it. There will already be a rubber plug that allows wires to run from the boot to the grounding point. It's the most professional way to do it if cable length allows.

Good point about the options, my comment regarding $15000 was made under the assumption that it was a facelift and a M-Sport, though the price they listed might have been for the base model.

Just saw a review of a 535D M-Sport in Top Gear today, apparently new it's $135,000? If that's true this isn't that great a deal then.

That's hilarious. Although this house depreciates pretty damn fast it'll be quite affordable in a few years!