Yuen

I couldn't agree more.

I think he means coilovers, as D2 makes coilovers. Dubbed5series, try asking member 'SUSPENSION' as he deals in H&R stuff in NZ.

Ouch. Hope the driver walked out fine. Nice wheels too.

Looks great!

I like the yellow one. Thanks for sharing!

Hey Paul, as far as I know, the E36 ti can use any wheels that normal E36 coupes or sedans can. I'm not sure if that still holds on the rear end if you're going to use some extreme offset that cuts it close, but for anything 'normal' it should fit. The ti also has the same front end as an E36 4 door. So front corners and side mirrors can be replaced with those made for the 4 door. Front bumper can be replaced with ones made for the 4 or 2 doors. I think the sideskirts can as well, however I read somewhere once that the ti's sideskirts are a little bit shorter, not sure if that's true. The rear bumper will definitely be different - you need one that suits the ti only. Ti cars also come with headlights different to the Bosch projectors found on E36 2 and 4 doors. Handling-wise... not sure, but here's what I found: 318ti has normal E36 318 suspension up front, and the rear is similar or exactly the same (not sure really) as that on the E30 M3/Z3/M-Coupe. Wait for the others to chime in on this. Do you mean what size tyres you can get away with on 17x8? If so... I'd say max = 235/40/17. 225/45/17 will be a nice size.

Hey Ashkan, Here are the instructions per the Bentley: 1. With engine cold, add coolant to expansion tank until level reaches COLD (KALT) mark on tank. 2. Loosen bleed screw on radiator expansion tank. 3. M3 models: Loosen bleed screw on thermostat housing. 4. Set temperature controls in passenger compartment to full warm and turn ignition to ON position (do not start engine). 5. Slowly add coolant until it spills from bleed screws. When coolant spilling from bleed screws is free of air bubbles, tighten screws. 6. Run engine until it reaches operating temperature. After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level and top up as necessary. Tightening torque: Radiator bleed screw to thermostat housing: 8 Nm (71 in-lb) Your 4 cylinder system should take 6.5L of fluid. Here's another page that basically says the same thing as the Bentley: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticl...olant-Flush.htm Personally, the Bentley's method didn't really work for me. I don't seem to be able to get all the air out with that method. What I do is, with the temp controls set to full warm, and with the bleed screw unscrewed, and the filler cap screwed on, I rev the car up and hold a certain RPM and let the water stream out until there are no bubbles, then go up to a higher RPM and let even more bubbles come out... after a while, take the filler cap off and top it up. And keep repeating until there are no longer any bubbles coming out even at high revs. Will take awhile but you'll be sweet. Then let her idle for awhile, and if she's not overheating, take her around the neighbourhood (with the heater off) for 10-15 minutes with some revving. I think there may more efficient ways of bleeding such as if you have 2 people (one in cabin and another topping up at the same time), I have tried that before. But I can't conclude if it's really more efficient.

No problem!

Sorry Eddy, I've never worked on an E30 before so have no idea how it looks - but if you can post pics we might be able to see what you mean better.

Ok. As ducatiss said, under pressure its likely to leak a lot faster. So don't judge the leak from when the car isn't being driven. I would get a new expansion tank, don't bother with an old one. IMO, parts like these that go through lots of heat cycles should be replaced with a new one - you are just asking for more hassle if you get an old one that is halfway through its usable life and when it breaks it's going to cause you more headaches. Yes sounds like there is air in the system, bleed it thoroughly and you should be sweet. Btw when the temp gauge needle is at 12 o'clock it doesn't necessarily mean its perfectly ok as it will sit there for a given range of temperatures... that's why when it flies past 12 o'clock it goes into the red so fast. So to make sure it's at the right temperature, bleed till there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw.

Hey Ashkan, Bit confused with what actually happened, did the car just overheat this morning when you took it out again? Where was the crack/hole? On the radiator? Expansion tank? Either way you will need to replace the part that has the crack. For now if it's a small crack and slow leak... just bleed the system and you should be good. But you'll have to monitor the temp gauge very carefully and top up everytime you drive. Btw, BMW coolant should be blueish instead of green. Use distilled water and BMW coolant if you can - better for your cooling system (there are some people who say it doesn't matter - but I think the couple extra bucks for BMW coolant is worth it for the peace of mind).

Have you checked with insurance on 3.5L? I'm just wondering how well they respond to those numbers... Edit: ^ Nice stable, for sure.

Awhile back even Countdown here offered 10c per litre off if you bought over a certain amount. Maybe it's an Auckland thing.

1. Do you have a sticker somewhere in your car (usually windshield) that says what oil was used at the last oil change? Going with the same type would be fine. Otherwise - you are free to choose really, whether you want to go with normal oil or synthetic. I changed my car (1991 E36 320i with the M50 engine) over from normal oil (Pennzoil) to synthetic (Castrol R Synthetic 5W30, now Castrol EDGE 5W30 at 140,000km. No problems at all. I have read that it's not a good idea to change to synthetic if your engine has done higher KMs though, as it may cause engine oil leaks. Maybe I was just lucky? YMMV. 2. I'd explain it but this one will do it better. http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticl...-Oil-Change.htm 3. Around 6.5L. For future references, check here: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/e36. It will have instructions for most jobs you do. PS: Remember to reset the oil service lights after you do the oil change. You should be able to find the DIY on the page above.

Awesome. Looks good

Which one is the RUF Chris? Is it the silver one second from the back?

Welcome! Would assume you're on BFC too.

Looks good, thanks for sharing. Was the E36 with the unpainted ACS front bumper with what looks like a CF hood packing anything special?

Looks nice. Personally a bigger fan of 5 spoke designs on the E36 so I think M6 style + E36 with a perfect drop = hotness.

No problem!

Hey Eddy, is this for the E30? I have only had experience with E36 ones, but on the E36, it helps if you take out the OBC and sunglass holder below the HVAC unit so your hand can push the HVAC unit from the back, then at the same time put the faceplate on from the front and screw it in.

Don't get too excited, maybe it's the sale of the 320i

A little confused as to why this thread got revived for no apparent reason!

You mean 9 = 'jiu' = long right? I get it now, didn't think of it in the asian way. Anyway, back to petrol...