conrod

The front struts look similar to an M3, but they are not the same. E28 steering arm bolts onto the bottom using 3 bolts, where M3 uses four, and because E28 uses steering box and steering arms are rear facing, you cannot turn them around. Also, stub axle/wheel bearing size different to M3 from memory. In short, you can make the E28 struts fit, but would have to make your own steering arms, not an easy job! Easier to fit E36 stuff.

318is is a single spinner...............

But wait, theres more! To any Bimmersport members who buy this engine, I will throw in absolutely free,not a set of poxy steak knives that you will never use, but a lovely pair of "UUC Motorwerks" billet aluminium undrive pulleys for the water pump and power steering pump- COOOOOOOL!

REPOST dudes!........................ http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;p=entry

Okay, here it is. A 2001 E46 M52TU 2.8 engine AND tiptronic trans, it has a broken water pump shaft, broken plastic thermostat housing and a small part of the bracket holding the p/steering pump is broken off(I have the part and it could be welded back on easily) Mileage believed to be 80kms. I will leave it on here for a week, and if no interest will put it on the world famous trademe. $2500 for the lot. pm me or phone 0274 901 865

Looked at it about 5 years ago, not sure if it was same vendor. Kit looked to be well fitted, with no cracks or rust evident. Other than that, it was a tired doggy old 325i, which didn't drive particularly well.

Depends what you want to use it for. If you want to go wave jumping (only really possible at Muriwai, Omaha and Pauanui where there is an offshore break) then get a Blaster 1, they are a much better ski for that.(I have one ,but they are only a single seater) If you want to just ride flat out in a straight line wherever (kinda boring) there are better skis for that than the Blaster 2. That said, the pump (jet) unit on these has a stainless sleeve, pressed into a cast aluminium housing. Water gets in and corrosion builds between the two, which leads to the whole unit cracking, usually at the top where you can't see until you pull it out. First signs are the impeller dragging in the stator housing as the pump unit swells up.New stator housing $400 + labour, and very common on these skis. Other than that, check for stress cracks in the hull, especially at the rear, which a lot of wavejumping will do, and around the engine mounts. Parts are reasonably priced and easy to get for these, as they are common to many other Yamaha skis. Oh and if all of this sounds bad, it is nothing compared to the grief a SeaDoo (Seadog they call 'em) or a Polaris will give you! And to all you who had a grizzle about jetskis and their riders, well, go tell someone who cares!

3.07 with an overdrive fifth would be WAYYYY to tall, probably get 40mpg though! Go the 3.64, as others have suggested. Keep the output flanges off the E28 diff, I'll buy them off you.

Not really my scene, but tastefully done! It just proves you don't need all the other crap people fit such as clear tailights, headlight eyebrows, ricey body kits, bright orange paint jobs etc to achieve a good look- keep it clean as you have done!

I agree, a Corvette is an animal trying to kill you!Seriously though, I drove my friends six cylinder E30 in the six hour race, 4 degrees of camber and about 10 degrees of castor with no power steering, and it wasn't an issue. And those who know me will verify that I am no pumped up gym bunny either! I say ditch it!

How bizarre, I thought only US spec ones were iron too! Was it NZ new, or an import? I have an ali block 2.8 if you decide that the 30 kg weight saving is more important than the 86mm overbore!

Pretty much yes, although I would just give the rack itself a smear of grease and leave it at that. The only other thing worth doing, is pulling the pinion out, and welding up the shuttle valve part (not sure if it called that!) which controls the power steering, this will get rid of a tiny amount of play in the shaft. Take it apart, and you will see what I am referring to, it is easy to do, and pretty safe, as if the weld breaks it just reverts to the way it used to be, if any of that makes sense.

The outside of the extension is puddle welded all the way around, at about 40mm intervals, so there is effectively two skins all the way around (the rear guard has a 90 degree "flange" all the way around, which was a bit of a mission to do, but makes for a very strong join between the two panels) and I will just run a bead of sealer inside the wheelarch, to stop any water entering. In fact, I will probably get the two edges TIG welded together all the way around. Fuel filler area is stock,apart from the piece I beat out to meet the outer arch,and I will be panelling over the standard filler hole, and fitting a dry break system if I can find the readies to pay for it! Rims are 8.5", and I will be running these front and rear, with same tyres both ends, and 240's are a good fit on these rims, although I will have to fit DOT tyres for the endurance series, probably a 225 or 235/40x18. Will be drilling them and bolting them on though, centrelock makes the whole thing too expensive, and unnnecessary for the racing I am planning on doing.

You will probably have to get Arrow Wheels to make up your outers, as you cannot buy these RS outer half sections from BBS (trust me, I HAVE tried!) Arrows are very soft rims and bend easily though. Let us all know how you get on regarding these- hard to beat the look of wide BBS RS wheels! Also, I have an M52 alloy blocked 2.8 available if you want to fit a proper engine to it!!!!.........

Thanks Glenn, appreciate that.I will be fabricating the suspension arms so will move the wheel forward a bit in the wheelhouse, in order to give a bit more clearance at the rear of the wheel (it also helps a tad with F/R weight distribution- similar effect as moving the engine rearwards) I am still going to have issues with tyre clearance, I am dummying it all up with a 240/640-18 slick tyre (Porsche GT3 front) and basicallly these tyres are too tall, I have modified the top of the front wheelarch for more clearance, but really need to do what they did on the last of the DTM E30's, and raise the whole inner wheelarch, which is more work than I want to do at this stage. So I will just put up with running it 30 or 40mm higher than ideal. And as for fitting the wheels under the stock wheelarches- no chance! It was my intention to do this originally, but they are WAY too big, so instead I am going to have a monster set of wheelarch flares made by a very capable friend of mine, complete with side sill extensions and huge front spoiler splitter (think early-mid 90's DTM) which explains my chopping out the rear wheelarchs and tubbing them to the top of the original wheelhouse. A few more pics of the rear wheelarch mod. You can see the R/H side is a bit different inside due to the original fuel filler setup. And the last pic gives you an idea how high the tubs sit, I have dummied the rear suspension up and the wheel will run right up to the top before things start crashing into each other, such as driveshafts into chassis rails etc!........ http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1279_IMG.jpg http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1280_IMG.jpg http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1281_IMG.jpg http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1282_IMG.jpg http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1283_IMG.jpg

It is a proper dry sump,(have yet to purchase pump and tank) The accusump is a large "bottle" of oil under pressure that discharges back into the oil system if the pressure drops suddenly, usually when cornering and all of the oil buggers off from the pickup. It is a "poor mans" dry sump system, not as good as a proper dry sump, but certainly better than nothing.

Okay, haven't done this before, but give this a go! http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1271_IMG.jpg Seems to work! A bit of added clearance for the rear wheels................................ http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1276_IMG.jpg And some more for the fronts too..... http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/con...12-1278_IMG.jpg I am about 3/4 of the way through seam welding the shell, next step will be to buy some race seats and send it off to get the cage built.

Latest purchase is this BMW Motorsport dry sump pan. YOu will have to use your imagination on this one, as I do not seem to be able to post pics up!!!!

I have a sundial that you can borrow to measure the 0-100 time!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/S...on-62498312.htm

Where did you buy it from?

It does look like a proper wing section, only problem is, it is on BACKWARDS! What a dumbass! Hahahaaahaaaaaaa!

Bosch 0 280 150 400 should be perfect for 500hp.

Just get the exhaust manifold made out of "U" bends, perfect for this application, you don't need to use steam pipe.And some pics please!

TBA- soon!