Neal
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Posts posted by Neal
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Elijah
Doesn't look that hard to make something similar from mdf and vinyl wrapping. That way you could drop your own custom components in.
Have a look at this series of custom fabrication. https://youtu.be/vYW-BUEbjTo
It does need to be this complex , but you'll get the ideas behind making pods and grills
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Sounding like a ground strap behind the dash.
On the off chance check the engine to chassis ground cable as well. I had a series of electrical issues with an e21 323 which sorted after cleaning the contact points at both ends. This included rev counter, lights , temp gauge, charging etc.
Nice car btw.
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It would be the wife's vehicle , used for shopping run, carting around daughters 3 yo friends in car seats, holidays with 4 adults and a car seat. Possible caravan duties. Weekly 200km round trip to the inlaws ( needs easy access and space for walker). Maybe a tow car for the mini if I can't get it all the body mods through cert.
I think wife's doing 1200 - 1500 kms a month.
I'd be after something less that 50,000kms with heated seats and a sun roof and possibly a 7 seater option for the odd time.
Sorry to hijack this thread.
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Really good info here.
So basically the $15k difference between an 4.8 and 30d would be the same cost over 4 years and the 30d is cheaper beyond that point at about $3.5 less to operate per year (for our household) The issue will be getting the go ahead to spend high 50s rather than low 40s.
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Been watching this as well. Was Thinking of a e70 4.8 to replace the wife's e36. She's been hit twice now in e36s ( one seriously hit) and frankly I want more protection around the child.
X5 has one the safest crash ratings where as a e60 touring has same rating as an e36.
Size perception is quite funny. The x5 is only marginally longer than a Camry by a bumper.
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I'd look to see if Dayton RS series speakers would fit such as a 5.25s driver up front. Build adaptors and use e30 speaker grills which would keep it looking factory up front.
If you can get the hifi rear enclosures then you'll have more choice with rears.
To keep costs down run the front speakers active and use you head unit to power rear speakers. 4.1 amps also tend to be a premium so you can often get a four channel plus 1 channels for roughly the same price yet have more power and headroom for the same price. You'd also find that running class d on bass will be easier overall on the e28 electrics
Eg
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/mono-1-channel/auction-1011992998.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/4-channel/auction-1011992564.htm
Front components if they can be made to fit.
Often have these speakers on special.
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When I suggest m6 rivnuts scratch that. Use m12 grade 8.8 fasteners and weld in the L brackets !
That a 15 in a 2.5 cubic foot box ?
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If you have fixed rear seats put four m6 rivnuts into rear firewall. Make or bent brackets to suit between subbox and back seat. Drill from inside of car (back seat clips out easily) to make sure you don't go too low and hit fuel tanks.
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As in VJ from page ?
Knows his stuff if its the same guy. His sig was on the first lot service stamps on my old e30 85 323i . He was still servicing it 330,000 kms later.
He also help with the m635i nut and bolt restoration from a couple of years ago.
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Been watching the series WW2 lost film on lightbox. Kind of like the real " Band of Brothers" . Film footage is real and I can only imagine the hell that war brings.
Didn't know that much about the Pacific war before yet met a number of USA pacific war vets over the years. Small islands where 10,000 plus people dying at a time.........
Worth watching but very grim at times.
If in London the imperial war museum is a must visit. Went to a holocaust exhibition as told from a kids POV. Wasn't a dry eye to be seen.
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I'd second streetsoundz as well. They did a very professional build on my e36 with no shortcuts. They can do from basic to full on show and have a good ear for dialling in a system. I'm fussier than most and would go back again rather than doing my own.
http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/40554-e46-m3-stereo-build/page-6#entry591480
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On the m3 I've had conti sports , yoko 103s, Pss and re11
Re11 have best grip and feel, PSS a close second bar the softer sidewall. PSS has better ride than others mentioned.
If your after a fun tyre that let's go in 2nd / 3rd then try the yokos.
PSS were imported at around $2.2k a set for 235 / 265 combo late last year.
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Great progress Neal.
If you ever come up to Auckland I'd love to hear it.
In the days of compressed audio files and D class amps, us car audiophiles are getting few and far between.
Will do :-)
ultimately want to play a few DSD demo tracks should the OS support it at a later date.
Mind you, class D on bass gives the cars electrical system relief and I doubt I can hear the difference on lower frequencies. Used to have issues my old PG A/B Amps overwhemling the alternator and battery on the e36.
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Is that a fluffy lamb I spy...
Doesn't everyone else keep a fluffy lamb near by the sofa ?
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Change of job this year has meant very little time for hobbies and cars.
I did manage to change the back lighting of the DSP controller to amber earlier this year.
Brought a few electronics cards for a couple of holiday projects
1, Freeview TV kit for factory BMW tuner. Will restore TV function when parked and allow USB content to be played
2, Raspberry PI based media system. The idea is to build the system into an old factory CD stacker and connect to factory 16/9 boardmonitor. Audio will be digitally connected and use lossless audio files up to 96k/24bit for high quality audio,
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A certain members E46 M3 CSL having a service at JGBMW last week.
Looking good on the road !
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It's a good design, it won't transmit over the top of another device which is important considering the low speed transmission rate of the Ibus.
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This one is a quality product. Never had an issue with strange stuff occurring on the ibus.
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Good point, maybe I was crossed up a bit.
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was this on SH2 yesterday? the boss was telling me all about it this morning probably the same guy
Was on the Gorge just after the rail bridge. Saw my abs marks on the road today !
It's the 2nd time in the same area.
Mind you, wasn't as bad as going under the back of a truck in the days where trucks could go across and down the gorge from the side lanes. That one took out my windscreen, roof pillar and drivers side window.
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Glad it's worked out.
When I did my build I noticed how that area would easily vibrate.
The rubber suspension will stop the low end extension a bit, but far better than put up with Rattles.
That treatment in the link above is more applicable if your running factory subs where drivers directly load the rear parcel and the air moment causes some flapping of the parcel shelf cover and the shelf. The issue here was more of the metal vibration by the coupling of sub and parcel shelve .
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Mount it to a 22mm Mdf panel that's almost the width of the parcel shelf. Carpet and attach via Iso fix mount nuts and use rivnuts with standoffs as well.It should stiffen up the parcel shelf enough.
Otherwise mount it above your battery tray.
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Drunk drivers this time of year .....
Car came across three lanes . Braked hard and just missed car and medium barrier. A few cms in it.The car wobbled between lanes for a while.
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e28 Stereo Advice
in Audio & In Car Entertainment
Posted · Report reply
Come to think of it, still have bits of my old e21 system circa 87