Neal

Bugger ... wanting a e90 m3 now ......

The balanced audio use is normally between the tuner / pre-amp and the amp. DSP can complicate adding aftermarket audio. I haven't done a lot of research on balanced audio car audio amps after I checked out a few and found the prices at the point where an audio processor made better sense.

Cheapest amp found I found was a zapco which would roughly be $900 landed but maybe the installer above may know of a cheaper option.

In the end I modded the factory tuner to use standard rca outputs and decided to reuse my small soundstream stealth series amps. link

At around 2000 you tuner could either be a bm23/24 or a bm53 , either can be modded for rca output. The soldering is tricky as there are a lot of surface mounted components. Best to have a pro do it rather than a hobbyist.

swautomotive or hotwire may be able to do this for you.

Would need to identify the tuner module in the boot to confirm aux or otherwise. Late model bm53 do , not sure about the bm24. What year is your e39 and does it have an orginal or retrofit sat nav ?

Otherwise a device like a dice that logically sites between the cd changer and factory tuner module could be a way of adding iPod support.

In terms of e ppi speakers do your research on the old models verse new. The tweeter on the old 355cs and 365cs have great clarity. The material on the newer 3.65 changed hence my question if anyone had listened to the newer series.

In terms of amps you will either have to use an amp with speaker inputs that daisy chain of the existing amp or find and amp that can balanced inputs from the factory tuner model. Balanced inputs support is typically on higher end amps and may not fit within your budget. Another way is to get something like and audio control lci electronic crossover but again unless buying second hand they aren't cheap.

Installer wise make sure you find someone that has worked on a sat nav integration install on an e39. You can easily spend 500-600 here.

Sometimes it can work out cheap by not combining postage. Remember that once it's over $400 with combined shipping then expect to pay GST

Unless your planning on importing a high end sub then its actually cheaper to buy local. Freight on mine was $177 usd. Similar with amps again your going for high end.

Was the customer after a turn key solution including app setup or were you originally only providing an office server and two laptops plus base desktop build with MSapps?

If the later then apologize face to face but point out that you where only originally providing an ICT solution excluding accounting software. You offered to help procure software as the customer purchased the wrong version as an act of good faith.Id point out what you where originally scoped to provide which you have ready and the additional software was being supplied due to customer mistake.

They should cut you some slack. Point out they shouldn't be pining the whole deal on condition of supply based on late delivery of MYob

In terms of the software it's normally activated by software key. The packaging / box / dvd aren't worth much. Get onto the MYob reseller and get them to advise MYob that the software has been stolen. If they aren't prepared to help take it up with Myob. Myob should be able to de-activate the licence so nobody is $1000 out of pocket should someone try and install it. This shouldn't become your problem and make you out of pocket. Also point out that through the poor process of dispatch to the reseller they have caused issues for your customer.

Now we are talking . Daughter still needs a 5 point as only just starting to sit up now.

Maybe not , $1300 NZ shipped

Has anyone heard the Ppi 3.65

All so known as the soundstream ref series. These are the replacement for the ppi 365cs. I considered these for the fronts in the M3 but the magnet was to deep without cutting metal in the doors.

Either way could be an option for the e39

or another suggestion while they can still be got. (ppi 355cs)

http://www.rapidradio.co.nz/Product-Catalo...p;ProductId=878

Which are also available via http://www.amazon.com/PPI-355CS-Precision-...s/dp/B006U4TREA

These are a mid 2000's design , but are a great sounding and like the DLS will appeal to audiophile type tastes. Sounds best with lots of power behind them.

Well done. Nice tidy install. The Boston get better / smoother sounding after 20 hours or so of music run in. You've end up with a lot of stereo for $1100 !

Excellent repair !

Been a while ! having a little one around the house certainly changes priorities and time.

Started on the ski pass enclosure. Have been playing around with a number of box designs for while. Rather than going deep into the boot have build the box to go along the back seat and follow the 20 degree angle of the back seat. That way I can still get the all important Baby Jogger into the boot.

Picked out a sub and a passive radiator again after having good experiences with Boston's old C110. This time will using a SPG555 and a SPG TR passive radiator. Main advantage is the it runs in a sealed box that's not too large. running 28 litre

Pics below is the box trial fit. , the box as seen via the ski port and the all important check to make sure the baby jogger will fit.

I don't think the lucas alternator would be up to it somehow. Running about 600 RMS on the sub channel.

Have tested a motorcycle helmet at 130k and both the helmet and my head survived. They are possibly better on direct impact such as side window impact. Being full face they are better from a fire pov compared to some of the open faced car helmets.

The key difference is they don't have anchor points for a hans device. The other issue is often they have aerodynamic aids. I find in the m3 with the road seat correctly adjusted the helmet clearance to headlining is minimal and the spoiler at the back of the helmet is very close to the headrest.

PS , The most important part of buying a helmet is one that fits your head properly.

Check out this video for more info

Been working on a "ski pass" subwoofer enclosure. Will end up with a 36mm front baffle.

Hatiatia worth a look. 10 Mins from the city and good chance of a garage.

I'm one of those Porirua types that ThrityAndy warned you about

Should be able to turn on personal hotspot on the ipad so it will act as an access point. No need for a router.

Have a look at an app called icam. it will take video from streaming wifi web cams. looks like you can set up so that it will bring any web cam up if it detects movement.

Last part would be to get a waterproof ip web cam , many are 5 volt so your standard $20 car usb 5volt 2 amp charger . Connect it to 12 volt via a relay off you reverse lights. In theory would bring up the camera video each time it's power on

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/82645404...ome_hidden.html

or

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/69076358...n_Baby_Pet.html

Have you thought about a wifi reversing camera ? Could open up Ipad mini options

Lithuim grease is your friend if its slow loading. You'll need to take the outer stacker case off. The ribon cables inside need to come out to make it easier via tabs on the edge ifthe connector.Grease all metal edges that move against each other. Also check the nylon wheel that does the up down motion. This can be adjusted by means of small Philips screwdriver. If the wheel is getting worn it jams a bit. Push it further into the cog.

Roughly takes an hour to do. Check out any alpine stacker disassembly pics / videos via google if you need help

Wheel adjustment and how it comes apart

https://blogs.oracle.com/miko/entry/cd_changer_repair

This Kit + ideas from here (K100RS same motor)

How are people reading the last paragraph in the left hand side above. I read this as bridge mode and 2 ohm capable. Otherwise , could be run in stereo mode with each voice coil on it's own channel.

Unit has good features , the high pass filters and time alignment settings will be useful . DVC sub will be fine.

For $300 two pairs of Bostons is up there eh. I doubt they will dissapoint when paying entry split level price

I have a boston spg555 sub going into my build

Btw , check out this this link for some ideas.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/top...lium-bmw-323ci/

Looks like the amp in bridged / tri mode makes its most power of 300 what's. with a 4 ohm per coil connected in parallel the amp will see a 2 ohm load and produce 250 watts.

With the amp being chosen it look like total load of 4 ohms from the speaker will produce the highest output.

So basically the dual 2 ohm version of the sub will produce the highest output from the amp in bridge mode.

Either way your car stereo is shaping up nicely. If you stay with the 4 ohm DVc version then you drop the max sound output slightly

Btw what head unit did you get ?

I've been given the task of sorting a couple of iPads for our staff.

They will be mainly used for emails, sending and receiving photos and inputting data into timesheets which are excel based.

What apps are out there to edit as well as create Microsoft Excel and Word documents? What experiences have others had with apps for MS Office? After having a brief look on the net, the best one seems to be CloudOn?

I know iPads are probably not the best tablet to use but these are for construction staff so ease of use is definitely a must!

You comments would be appreciated!

Using quick office pro as our standard app for viewing and basic editing of office docs on our iPads. It's a reasonably cheap app as well. Ipad is an easy interface to first time tablet users. We've used them on a fairly wide group of users with differing IT literacy skills. Have played and have access to Windows 8 tablets , have a blackberry play book as well

My default tablet has become the ipad with a windows 7 laptop as backup for serious document creation and Visio drawings.

Fine tuning the fronts would mean something like putting the tweeters on the a pillars or top of the dash in the corners. If the crossovers are adjustable then back off the tweeters 3db if putting on dash.

If you run the fronts like this you will have a better sound stage and less of an issue with unequal distances compared to tweeters in doors.

For the rears I'd back off the sound output so that they running about a quarter volume of the fronts or less.

Sub wise pick for your music tastes. E.g 10 inch good for rock, punchy and fast, 12 inch , goes lower but timing of bass can be delayed , 15 inch higher output goes lower and harder , timing isn't great unless its a highend sub.

Not all subs in the same size are equal either and it could pay to check with Rogan in terms of best bang for the buck.

OK, cheers.

Better; http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=583057069 ?

Class d is easier on the electrics for the same power as a class ab amp. Looks like a reasonable amp for price.

Can your budget for speakers stretch to a couple of sets of these Visit My Website

Boston is getting out of car audio and has being selling off stock. These retailed for around 500 nz a pair.

Sound is very good as is build quality.

In terms of you head unit I'd run the RCA rear output to the amp and run both the fronts and sub off the pioneer. Use a y cable on the inputs and run the amp in 3 channel mode.

Sub wise look for something that's a min of 300 rms in a box size that suits your bmw. If you have a ski pass armrest think about a sub that sits at the right height to fire through the arm rest hole.

Rear speaker just connect to front speaker out. So on your Sony head unit the front and sub are off the rear RCA output. So the fader function will be in reverse ( set and forget )