Neal
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Posts posted by Neal
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Priceless , one of those cars I hope to own again one day !
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Paul , you could do the m track mode button retrofit depending on abs controller if you fitted the wheel.
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That looks to be in great condition , roughly at the same level when sold mine in 1989 . Retired couples Sunday car ?
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try these for a start
First do a visual check on the connector pins to your tuner and make sure the pins and the connector are seating correctly. If it doesn't clamp down properly this could be the source of the issue. (Which tuner do you have ? )
I'd check the 12v dir , 12v ACC power feeds at the Tuner connector first and then the earth connection . If voltage not present then this will be the issue or if no connection to ground.
Next would be the ibus signal wire. The voltage at the ibus should fluctuate between 0 to 12 volts . get someone to press the on / off button quickly a number of times . The tuner should be seeing the data signal that is telling it to turn off / on. If not the data signal isn't making it thru to tell the turner to switch on / off
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I wish I'd taken my own advice when I started on rebuilding a mini so hopefully can provide some insight.
The idea was to rebuild to a price , learn a bit about mechanics. To make a budget limit and to work within it.
Instead I've got carried away with possibilities and have put quite considerable amounts into acquiring parts, having body resprayed , building silly spec turbo engine etc. I'm at the point price wise where some of the trademe e36 M3' with cage would have been in my price range. Instead , I've got a way to go and at the end of the day I'll end up with a nice turbo'd mk1 mini.
Where I went wrong. I thought I could do the car for roughly $7-8 k
Engine and transmission owes me roughly $7k. It will make 130-170hp depending on boost , or about the same as a s/h $1200 jap 1300 turbo engine.
Brought a body for rare cooper s brakes .... $2k has become $6 painted as I'm using this shell
Add glass , rubbers , new lights , cooper chrome , drop fuel tank , wiring , cert the shell will be closer to $8.5 k
$2k for wheels and tyres , $1k for shocks / suspension mods ,
Seats will add another $1.5k and it goes on and on.
When finished it will more than likely be a car I'll keep for as log as I can drive.
The lost opportunity however has been the money that could have purchased something greater not to mention that the car isn't drivable yet.
Do the Maths and be realistic about time. I know a lot of people like myself that start projects with good intentions , but take years and $$$ to finish. Bitter sweet really. Do the $ & time sums on your M3 for resto, or just get the rust done and enjoy it for what it is.
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Back to APT
If you try an SMG get the owner to set Auto Mode to position 2 and manual mode to position 4 which are both good road setting. You'll get an idea of what the SMG is about. mode 2 is more auto like and mode 4 is more brisk manual change and is great for every day driving. Remember not to lift off the throttle like you would on a manual otherwise you'll think the system is jerky and crap.
Modes 5 & 6 are quick and more suited to track work and at higher throttle settings will put considerable load on gear train and rear subframe on the shift. I tend to do a slight throttle off on the change to avoid this. On the down shift the system is great. Shifting down to 2nd at 80 kmh under hard braking is not a problem without having to worry about rear wheel lock ups. System does well to match downshift revs.
The SMG also have launch control which holds the rpm at a reasonable level for quick take offs. Seems to be a good balance of brisk take off verse lighting tyres up. However , too many of these may cause the subframe mount point tearing that is well advertised.
@ Dave, us SMG owners love to take the p out of tractor style gearbox shift action that manual drivers have to put up with. See the light brother ......
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whats this all about? could you elaborate? thanks!
You can update the software on the SMG as the transmission software evolved from first release and continued through the Z4 Mcoupe. I had mine reflashed recently with the latest version.
Has slight improvements to the quality of shift in soft auto mode. A CSL load could also be specified.
Similar for DSC settings depending on ABS controller. The CSL load and Track mode switch can be added , though it would pay to have the larger CSL / AP / 911 Brembo callipers before doing this.
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If you want a manual, wait for a manual.
The SMG is fun for a few days (whilst you use it like a 'manual') but after that it becomes an 'auto' as the novelty wears off. No disrespect to SMG owners but the experience is quite different.
And you can't drop a Gen II SMG down from 5th directly to 3rd**... that's absolutely essential!
**It probably goes from 5th to 3rd via 4th faster than I can direct change manually but hey, where's the fun in that...
Checked 5-3 6-4 3-5 4-6 on the way home. Yep , Can do that on an SMG II. Took 15 mm of finger travel. That's 10's more efficient than a manual and only required 1 finger rather than 2 limbs. Get an awesome throttle blip on the double down shift
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Get smg , the csl's has it for a reason !, far better on track days, no need to heel and toe. Use auto mode for heavy start / stop traffic. Smg should be smooth with little back lash otherwise look elsewhere.
Check brake rotor wear , $1800for front rotors and pads. Check rearview mirror for any sign of bubbling.
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Anyone remember Vanishing Point ?
wanted a Dodge Challenger ever since -
Could be wrong , but I thought the only M cars from the late 70's early 80's was the M1 and the super rare e12 m535i.
Still a well spec'd E21.
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I think your right . The Alpina front spoiler looked good on these . The back end was a little untidy standard as well. Reckon a modded e28 front spoiler would look great such as your car.
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What's not genuine about it. looks like a E21 will all options ticked. Mine had a similar interior with factory recaro's
Body kit is either Zender or BBS but either way a period option.
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Wife was going to buy a Series 1 Mx5 many years ago. The dealer stressed that the rear window must be unzipped before putting the roof down unlike Z3's and similar. The rear window can rip as a result. You'd have no way of knowing this without being told up front.
Your being done on price as well MX5 repair window
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Cheers Brent for supplying one.
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Looking like the dude has died.
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Had to remove some of the storm debris to get out of the garage , but considering the amount of thumps on the roof Thursday night I'm pleased that none of our trees came down. Thought one of our Tawa trees was going to topple. Wicked wind eh !
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Caution on the second hand amp. Only buy from someone you know or can vouch for condition.
Had a PG AMP go and couldn't repair as getting matched transistors was a problem. Brought a S/H one off trademe to replace. Turns out the amp in so call excellent condition had a serious fault.
When connected up in tri mode the sub and left channel worked. However , a serious amount of smoke started coming out of the rh side of the dash. The amp was faulty in such a way that the crossovers smoked up. It also killed the voicecoil on one of my Boston components mid bass. This all only took a few seconds.
The whole car could have gone up which was sitting in my garage at the time.
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Sorry to drag up an old topic, but with the NZD being so strong at the moment I am seriously considering ordering some tyres (tires) from tirerack.com. The US list price is at least 50% less than buying in NZ.
Obviously GST on purchases over $400 (including freight) is a cost to be factored in.
Has anyone done this in recent times, and what kind of freight charges were involved?
Did this last year. Brought in a set of re11 bridgestones. The quote I got from Nz worked out cheaper but I couldn't get the rears. BS tried to get them in for me , but this was post earthquake and couldn't get them in time. Bs nz offered semi slicks instead at a great price , but neded tyres for mainly road use.
Shipping was via TIrerack was over 400 usd and gst was added to tyres and freight
Would have been around $1900 nz if they could be sourced locally. Was $2200 via tirerack but still happy with the purchase at that price
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Insane pace ! Same weight as a mini and 400 bhp !
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i reckon there wont be an in between with these cars,they will either be a very well cared for minter or not
Tend to agree, living in London 2005 / 2006 I would regularly see 2 csl's that were parked on the streets due to a lack of garages. One started looking quite sad due to other cars hitting it and it had been coined. The inside resembled a tip.
There are a few good second hand bmw dealerships that I came across when looking for a e30 M3. Can pass on the names as they were better than most.
Cat d cars are to be avoided, these have been written off and repaired. A check on the vin will show that up.
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Have you thought about a MDM solution such as Airwatch ? Good for updating and pushing policies to "I" devices. Can be used for Andriod as well
Has a free trial
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After a left trunk liner for a E46 Coupe with fold down seats. It's the grey carpet cover that covers the CD stacker / sat nav / rack. Part no 51478266569
Thought I'd try bimmersport before resorting to importing.
Calling all E39 radio experts!
in Audio & In Car Entertainment
Posted · Edited by Neal · Report reply
Great that it was something like this. Any one of the three wires mentioned stops the tuner from powering up.
Having 2 + 4 speaker setup in the rear running Bass / mid bass should help to fill in the bottom end. Like the idea of the drivers being in the cabin rather than via air holes in boot or via transfer function inherent in cars.