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3rd form maths my friend: $50 @ $1.68/L = 29.76 litres (using someone's post of current 95 octane petrol price) A modern 318i uses 8.50L/100km in town, 5.20L/100km out of town (source: Google, who else?). Average these two values and you get 6.85L/100km Lets calc the km you'll achieve using these 3 fuel consumption figures: 29.76L @ 8.50L/100km = 350km 29.76L @ 6.85L/100km = 434km 29.76L @ 5.20L/100km = 572km If your values deviate hugely from these then either a) you leak fuel you sit in traffic jams a lot c) you have a heavy right foot PS: compare my 2008 VW 2.0L common-rail diesel uses 6.9L/100km (measured long-term over the last 30,000km)

You need the BMW diagnostic software to do some smooth running tests. Took around an hour or so on my car - so you need to leave the car with a BMW guy. Like Glenn.

It's just broken adjusters. Very common, easy to replace. You can buy replacement adjuster kits for <$50 I did mine. Be carefully fitting them - don't get the lenses dirty and don't break the headlight when disassembling. Plastic gets brittle with age, breaks easily... Tip: do both headlights at the same time.

Look at the E30 wiring diagram, that'll tell you everything Of course, you need the right diagram for your car: eg a 1991 E30 325i convertible shows: Speed signal input A/C On input Closed throttle input Wide open throttle input Coolant temperature input Oxygen sensor heater control Whereas a 1987 E30 325i shows Fuel pump relay control Oxygen sensor heater control Barometric pressure unit Start input Reference point input Air flow meter connections Coolant temperature input Engine Speed input Oxygen sensor input PS: I do not understand why you rewired a working system. Perhaps I have missed something...?? (In my industry we have a saying "Never touch a running system") Anyway, if you're working without a wiring diagram, you're working blind. Get the right wiring diagram for your car and all becomes crystal clear.

Classic case of a bad connection on either the power or the earth side. Voltage drops rises as current draw increases, until radio cuts out. Check all connections, and measure them!

I can source some 2nd hand ones for you. Look as good as new, last owner said he didn't print much with them Not sure how long they'll last, but good enough for you to sell the printer...

And park it in the sun for a day with the bonnet open. Get that engine bay bone dry! It would be a good idea to take of the engine cover and make sure everything is dry underneath, let that good old Kiwi sun dry it out nicely for you. Tip: check and replace as necessary the pollen filters (cabin air filters). There are two - on a 2nd hand car often these are horribly dirty. Very easy to replace, GLenn can give you a new pair for a better price than BMW NZ. Never drive without the filters! Tip 2: Connect a battery charger so that you don't flatten the battery whilst checking out all the toys and goodies inside the car during your "drying day":-)

Your battery is dead. Some of the internel cells will be shorted, hence the smoking jumper cables. The battery died through lack of use - car betteries need to be used on at least a monthly basis to ensure they stay good. Throw the battery away - oops - take the battery to the recyclers and then get a brand new battery.

Go to www.realoem.com, you can look up any part number for any BMW part for almost any BMW.

I bet he doesn't have faulty sensors Two wheel sensors don't fail at the same time And a failling ABS controller is very common Replace or resolder the ABS controller. That is highly likely the problem But as Glenn says, diagnose further using your head, not just a scanner.

I had similar symptons with ocassional "lurch" and shakes with my E39 540i, and only under idle. First I cleaned the ICV idle control valve - it was all gummed up and sticky, not working at all. Use carb cleaner, really easy to clean. Good to fix that issue but it wasn't the cause of the "shudder" and shake. you know the ICV needs cleaning if the idle speed drops when the motor goes under load: eg, when shifting from P to D, or switching on the AC. If the idle speed drops and takes long to recover, or if the engine stalls, the ICV needs cleaning. A good ICV reacts instantly and the motor will never stall or drop in RPM when the idle load increases. Anyway, back to the shudder / lurch. On my car the shudder was caused by one of the eight ignition coils failling at idle. And only at idle. At revs of >1000rpm there were no misfires. No error codes were ever recorded. We finally diagnosed the problem by running the smooth-running test in the BMW DIS to observe the O2 values in real time. We saw a blip on one cylinder when it misfired. Swapped coil with another cylinder an the blip moved to the other cylinder. Fitted a new coil, and the engine ran perfectly afterwards. PS: don't skimp with 2nd hand coils, you never know when they will fail. Remember: the coil operates at very high temperatures (the motor operates at 105 degrees C) so old coils have been heat stressed a lot.... and may fail... And failling ign coils is a common problem, esp on older cars.

you are right, I mixed my cars up. wheel well is e39.

Original only. The siren has electronics integrated inside it and is controlled by digital data signals. No aftermarket alarm will do the job The siren is in the rear right wheel well - remove wheel and well cladding (plastic trim) to access the siren. Consider getting one from the US: Part 65758383152 Price USD 177 = NZD 270 (giyes vou an idea of the local NZ dealer margin) They're small and easy to ship.

YES, NZ cars tend to be lower spec than Jap or Singapore. I've seen NZ cars with ...basic 6-speaker, no-amplifier stereo ...leather but no seat heting ...no electric memory seats ...no EDC ...no TV/nav ...no multi function steering wheel etc Visit a few cars. Take note of the spec levels A car that has the optional switch panel fully equipped is well speced :-)

2.7.0 18 July 2009 Added installer packager with .exe distribution file (finally!) Modified auto-update and auto-install function to work with zip and exe files Added AND/OR function to device filter in main ibus window Fixed bug where primary-sub languages were being detected as primary lng only eg EN-US Fixed spelling and updated text in many language files Changed CDC message 00 00 to Status_Request Updated Readme file (removed OCX references) Get it here: http://www.siegenthaler.co.nz/NavCoder/dow...vCoderSetup.exe

Late model? It's 2009 now, heading rapidly towards 2010 A 97-98 E36 is now more than 10 years old And a car that has been around for more than a decade will start to show wear and tear....

Thanks to Google I can read and write 42 different languages - and you can too. So don't give me that weak excuse of "Sorry I cannot speak the language" :-) Expensive? Depends on your luck. I've landed E36 radios for as little as $50NZD and as much as $300 NZD. All depends on popularity. If you have a CD changer, and want the NZ radio to listen to the radio, then get radio-tape - they are the cheapest.

Readily available on ebay Germany Tape or CD

Happens on some of the older video modules. Change to a newer video module. Standard BMW trailer wiring kit disables reverse lights on vehicle when trailer is connected. Hence, if being triggered from reverse lights, the rev camera won't work when trailer lights are is plugged in. PS: the video module supports PAL and NTSC cameras. To operate with PAL cameras, reprogram the video module with my NavCoder app. As for Mirror Image: This is a MUST - if you fit non-mirror image the picture will be reversed (L&R) to what you expect, which will be extremely confusing and possible dangerous.

E46 E39 E38 X5 E53 Z4 X3 ...and all later models do have DRLs as well, but NavCoder cannot program the newer cars.

ohhh - that's even worse. They'd really blind the oncoming traffic.I think the words you are looking for are "daytime running lights" :-)

Most countries have folglight laws that translate to "use foglights when it is foggy" ie: when not, don't use them The size of the light (giant 4WD, mini Twingo) makes no difference The rear fog light is the especially dangerous one - can be blinding for the following drivers LTSA says: Fog lamps should be used when visibility is severely reduced – eg by snow or thick fog. They give out a short, wide beam of light that shines underneath the fog, lighting up the foreground and helping the driver see the sides of the road better. Don't use fog lamps when the weather is clear, as you could dazzle other drivers. Rear fog lamps make the back of the vehicle more visible in fog. They are very bright and likely to dazzle drivers behind you, so they should also only be used in foggy conditions. Personally I think they have the "dazzle other drivers" part with front fog lamps wrong. Then, in their other doc, they state: "On the road Fog lamps should only be used when visibility is severely reduced, eg by snow or fog. It is against the law to use fog lamps in clear conditions (day or night) as they can dazzle other road users." There you go. Permanently on front fog lamps are not allowed in NZ.

Hi Josh - don't code if you have LCM coding index 31 or higher. Let me know what you have.

That's exactly what DRL is. Choose DRL-ECE otion and lowbeam+taillights are always on when the car is on. Note: you're not allowed to have foglights on all the time, this is in conflict with the traffic regulations.

With nav system: Select TIME and DATE under SETTINGS