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Well after never having seen a Japanese Jag in my life I have had fun researching this today: The good news is the Radio can be changed from Japanese to Europe settings. Here's an extract from the Owners Manual: Audio Setup This function enables the radio to be set to user operating preferences. By selecting SETUP and using the buttons on the touch-screen, the owner or Jaguar Retailer can adjust certain radio functions. When in SETUP, pressing the relevant button will display the facility selected and its state. The state of that facility can be changed by pressing the button again. To enter SETUP: Press Eject and AM/FM buttons simultaneously. The display will show AUDIO SETUP. The preferences shown on the next page can then be selected or changed in any order. After 15 seconds the display will clear and exit SETUP. Country During initial factory installation, this is used to set the radio to one of the following regions: Europe, Australia or Japan. Regional settings determine the correct frequency increments required for seeking stations, automatic tuning etc. Note: The regions are preset at the factory. Should you require a regional change, consult your Jaguar Retailer. For Your car in NZ, your should set REGION = EUROPE, and RDS = ON because NZ uses European standards with RDS. Then, if a band expander was added, REMOVE IT As for TV, there is a TV settings menu, but because the car is a Japanese car, this menu may be disabled... Changing the vehicle's region to Europe (or NZ if possible) may correct this.

Blocked with mould gunge growing in the washer bottle. Best to remove and clean out the washer bottle then refit. Make sure you always use proper washer fluid as it prevents mould growth

Hard to compare. On a BMW you "press a button" to change the setting :-) And the dealer charged him for that...?? Wow! If the $1200 was for a new Jaguar factory TV system, then it is incredibly cheap. But stay clear of any botched external video converters - you'll be disappointed. If you are DIY minded, you can change things yourself - I can help you further using Google, but you need to supply photos of what you have now.

Take it to someone who is. Recommended places in Akld are Botany Motor Works (Glenn) or BM Workshop (Guido) Get them to correct the coding on the instrument cluster at the same time. They'll be able to read and tell you the _real_ kms.

The Compact is smaller than the Cabrio which is smaller than the Sedan which is around the same or smaller than the Coupe which is smaller than the Touring A lot of E46 body shapes to choose from....

What's wrong with BMW prices? They're only about $35 NZD and you get the original BMW handbook for your car, worth having. When I bought one for my 540i, it cost $35 and was half the price of my Honda handbook !! Bargain...

Dodgy repair. If the gauge was replaced by a competent BMW mechanic, it would have been re-programmed to read the exact same kms, and would be perfect A wrong km reading indicates it was replaced by a non-BMW tech or an amateur. The E46 will now be generating following problems: 1. Tamper indication on odometer will be lit, as odometer kms no longer match LKM kms. Km reading is stored in multiple locations to prevent odometer fraud 2. Chassis number stored in cluster will no longer match chassis number of vehicle 3. Options and coding settings in cluster will no longer match the vehicle's fitted options - like paint codes, upholstery type, fitted options, etc The car needs to be properly recoded to make everything match up.

This is what I'll shortly be playing with.... 645Ci E63, with V8 engine and full nav system Electronics has same platform as E60, so all learnings will apply to 5- and 6-series.

Or from BM Workshop for quite a bit cheaper....

Well done. I , for one, can appreciate the time and effort it took to do the research, and the gamble that has to be done to get the first car converted. (speaking from experience from working with the ibus vehicles) Good on you! As for the tools: that's the hard part for most people, as the INPA & NCS-Expert software tools re not so easy to find and once you see them, not so easy to use... And changing the Vehicle Order is never something that BMW likes people to do :-)

Many options: Averaged speedo pulse signal, TAA, is available on radio connector. Black wire with white stripe Instantaneous, processed wheel pulse signals are available on the instrument cluster (used as input to supply the speedo) as well as on connector of ABS modulator in the engine bay. Speed pulse comes from ABS modulator. As for whether you need averaged or instantaneous signal depends on your application.

WBAAA320007436065 W = Manufacturing country = Made in Germany B = Make = BMW Germany A = Vehicle Type = Passenger car A = Line = 3-series up to 2001 A = Series = 3-series 3 = Body type = 3-series body 2 = Vehicle type = ?? 0 = Restraint system = Manual seat belts 0 = VIN check digit 0 = Model year = ?? 7 = Assembly plant = ?? 436065 = sequential production number - in yout case this is 1 digit too short I think you left a digit out of the VIN If your VIN = 7436065 then you have a: P E30 2-T 320i M20 ECE 19830200 R M which means: Passenger car E30 2-door 320i M20 motor ECE model Made in 1983 February Right hand drive Manual

Could be failling power supply chip inside radio, or leaking capacitors, or dry joints. But loot at unloader relay first

Screen contact failure. Not much you can do apart from replace the screen You should suspect low battery voltage, I would give the battery a decent overnight charge and then monitor radio performance. Otherwise likely culprits are: 1. Oxidised unloader relay (switches power to radio etc). Located in boot fuseholder panel. 2. Dry joints inside the radio module. What model radio is it?

That wire is not the catalyst sensor wire It is one of two things: a ) It is the speed bump / low ground clearance indicator It was added to special models 20 years ago knowing that in the future the car would be lowered and the sensor would scrap the ground. The fact that the indicator light shows a catalytic converter was just done to confuse the owner. or b ) It is the stupid question sensor It is designed to be ripped and broken so that the owner can ask stupid questions like "can a broken wire could possibly be the cause for an electrical fault?" and "I've found something broken, should I fix it?" I'm sorry I dont know which one of these two it is.

To solve your issue you will need a larger battery as well as larger alternator. If you are consuming sooooo much power then you need to consider a second battery which supplies just the audio system, charged via a blocking diode from the alternator. Of course, the battery has to be mounted close to the amps. The other option is to save the money and invest it in health care, you'll need it to fix your hearing loss in a few years time.

3rd form maths: Watts(W) = Voltage(V) x Current(I) W=85 and V=12 so 85 = 12 x I 85 / 12 = I 7.08333 = I So continuous current at 12V = 7A And continuous current at 14.4V (when battery is being charged) = 5.9A Allowing for some surge current at startup, I would fuse at 2x continuous current, ie use a 15A fuse.

Very dependent on the model E38 iLs tend to have AV as standard, even the high end X5 has AV as standard So generally the highline models haveAV, and the non-highline doesn't. But, as you say, very easy to fit.

For what it's worth, I had a VW Golf with identical symptoms, caused by a wire to the temperature sensor having broken The temp sensor was open circuit, the ECU thought the motor was -40 degrees, and ran it super rich. Clogged the plugs, no power, couldn't drive it, lots of black smoke, running super-rich Re-soldered the wire and voila! It was perfect? So check the temp sensor that you have continutiy from ECU to the temp sensor on both sides (signal and ground)

What everyone here needs to remember is that a change in the current situation requires a change in the law. So the best way for the change to happen is for as many people as possible to complain to the Minister of Transport.

You have the MID (multi-info display). This is separate to the existing radio/tape, radio/MiniDisc or radio/CD The easiest, cleanest, and best looking solution is to fit the BMW CD player. Plug and play solution, and you loose no functionality Otherwise, keep the MID and replace the radio-tape, but be aware: You will loose steering wheel controls You will have to fit an adapter plate, and this may mean the MID must go. If you want to keep the MID, it may be difficult to fit with the MID, as the MID covers part of the single-DIN slot. If you keep the MID, the MID volume control will have no effect. And it will never look right I recommend to fit the BMW CD player. eBay.de is your friend.

Tips for interested parties: The radio module that dogballs has for sale has the Facra antenna connector An short antenna adapter cable, available from BMW, is required to connect the DIN-antenna connector, as fitted to the old-gen radios used in Jap-import BMWs up to Sept 2001, when they changed from Old-Gen to New-Gen radios. The antenna adapter cable part number is: 61.12-6 913 955 New Gen Radio Antenna Adapter Current USD price for the part is $33.76, plus taxes. (From experience, BMW NZ tends to be 2x or 3x the US Retail Price List !!) The BM54 radio was manufacturered in May 2007, so is quite a new model. it was made by Becker, who are regarded as the best automotive sound system manufacturers, and they supply all top-end cars. Becker is the best! This unit is a special backwards-compatible model (BM54 BACK) and is therefore perfect for use with the Jap import cars An excellent improvement / upgrade for anyone with a Jap-import E46, E38, E39, or X5 manufactured before the radios were changed from old-gen to new-gen (Sept 2001)

On the E39 the dimming of the check-control display, and service indicator, and outside temp, is all due to contact problems developing between the LCD display and the circuit board behind it. Google "E39 pixel problems" and you'll see this is a world-wide common problem. It also affects E38 and X5s. There are DIY fixes but not for the faint hearted, otherwise the instrument cluster can be sent to a guy in Auckland - ask Glenn from Botany Motor Works who the guy is. Note of course that the car cannot be driven without the instrument cluster. Don't trust an electrician, you need to be an electronics repair technician to work on this fault. I'm in Switzerland :-)

No, the BMW does not use the Alpine AI-Net control protocol. BMW uses ibus, with a BMW-designed protocol. Google and you will find CD changer emulators for the BMW Remember, a car built before Sept 2001 will have an old-generation radio, with no native Aux-In. So a Cd changer emulator is required After Sept 2001, the new-generation radio has a native Aux-In capability, so you can just get a cable from BMW. If you want, you can change an old-gen radio-tape to a new gen radio-CD. You will need the following: 1. new gen radio 2. radio adaptor harness , Old Gen to New Gen 3. radio antenna adapter harness, DIN (OG) to Facra (NG) 4. New Gen Antenna amplifier eBay is a good source for these parts.

Google for "E34 PPPP" and you get loads of posts on how to fix this problem. Honestly, google is great, you should try it....