Racecar - The Go Faster Project.

[Andrew 30]

180 odd hp isn't enough really. It lasted well for last years racing and I did good times and had fun.

I decided I needed to go faster though - so my near new M20 has been sold to another open class car and I'm doing an M20 build (something I vowed I would never do).

So on the weekend I ripped out the engine. Gus started this trend - so all project threads MUST begin with a dragon (think Starsky & Hutch style) in the engine bay.

Stripped down the old motor - took my link wiring loom and holden injectors off. Bits everywhere - after using some of these bits for a year I have noted;

- The Ireland engineering race clutch is very good.

- BnT cheap as chips presssure plates work well enough.

- Make sure that top coolant hose is nowhere near the fan.

- Ireland engineering urethane engine mounts still look as good as new.

My Mark Herbert headers (which gave me poo-loads more power) still look pretty good and nicely made. Am going to get them coated in something to preserve them. NO IDEA how they got them on the car while the motor was in the car - the steering rack goes inbetween the tubes. [Yes the writing on the wiring loom is my n00b notes so I remember where it all goes]

So the plan is.

Nice short intake manifold with 6 x TBs. Link ECU (current). My badass exhaust manifold (current). 3.1 ltr crank with 1mm Osized forged pistons. Comp ration 10:1 - 308 degree cam. Lightened everything. Built just nicely and tuned by Gavin Bellars @ Hi Velocity. I am hoping for over 250+ rwhp.

The car is also going to go on a diet and hopefully I can find some glass panels - but that can wait till later.

First race is in early September so it's a pretty tight time deadline. I'll keep this thread updated.

[Gus 5]

badass...love the dragon

wish i was back to see how this turns out

personally im mighty impressed that andy managed to do it keeping all his extremities on

as for weight:

smaller motorsport high torque starter (no idea where, seen em in mags over here) cos you have the massive one if i remember right

fibreglass doors can be gotten from somewhere..saw them on e30 tech?

do what warren glassford did with his bonnet, keep the steel but remove all the other bits n pieces and pin at the front

your battery is tiny already which is good

lexan windows? rear window?

get rid of the rest of your sound deadening

strip out the sunroof and all the winding equipment, and weld the panel in

i have been rather occupied with these important issues of course

[drifty325i 0]

Awesome, that will surely be one of the most powerfull m20 in nz?

[Andrew 30]

personally im mighty impressed that andy managed to do it keeping all his extremities on

I hurt my finger and of ALL the things that pissed me off I couldn't get the gearlever out hah.

As for most powerful M20 - N/A perhaps. My goal is to be at least as quick as Warren Glasford (which will require some driving practice more than raw power!)

[OLLIE 26]

I hurt my finger and of ALL the things that pissed me off I couldn't get the gearlever out hah.

stupid damn gear lever thing!

[conrod 1]

as for weight:

smaller motorsport high torque starter (no idea where, seen em in mags over here) cos you have the massive one if i remember right

later M20 has lightweight high torque planetry gear type starter

[Mike 1]

why M20 build? I'm just curious as to why you went that option. Will be sweet when finished though.

[Andrew 30]

why M20 build? I'm just curious as to why you went that option. Will be sweet when finished though.

Because then I can race in all classic meetings. Plus it's easier and cheaper than teh S50. Plus I have all the m20 go fast bits.

Individual TBs may be on hold - it would be in the region of 4 - 6k to set up!

[Gus 5]

later M20 has lightweight high torque planetry gear type starter

yeah but something even smaller?

if you want the normal smaller one i think i have a spare andy

also if you not going ITB's, want to grab my bigger TB?

maybe just get yours bored out and M30 plate put in (thats what mine is)

[BM WORLD 1286]

where or what do you get the 3.1 crank from ...

just took my m535i with m5 engine for its first little drive around the block tonight ..woh!!

need to do a few things first , before nailing it .

[bumpstop325 0]

Something i heard while in the jungle is using a M50 328i crank in the M20 block.

Only requiring some shims at one end to help pack it up.

I so want to get my 2.7 going again.

[Andrew 30]

It begins.. high compression Ross pistons.

Impressive quality - all the laser cutting reports, weights and workmanship certificates. Full instructions. Badass

Crank and the other bits turn up this arvo.

Badass

Ireland Engineering have ruled in customer support and getting this stuff to me. Once they had all the stuff it has taken 5 days including customers clearance with DHL express.

[Grant 4]

f**king Awesome - will be brilliant once you are done

[Andrew 30]

For those who wanted to know what it cost:

Total

DESCRIPTION PRICE EACH AMOUNT

3.1 Liter Strocker Kit-M201 1,995.00 1,995.00

New Billet Perfromance Cam-M20 3041 375.00 375.00

Performance Head Gasket-M201 190.00 190.00

Oversize Exhuast Valves-M20 +16 144.00 24.00

Oversize Intake Vales-M20 +16 144.00 24.00

Freight 448.30 448.30

$3,296.30 USD + 905 NZD GST

I just got also..

Clutch Pressure Plate - M20 heavy duty

(87 325 (with 3.1 strokerkit))

1 $165.00 $165.00

Clutch Disc - racing

1 $160.00 $160.00

Wheel Studs - 57mm

16 $2.75 $44.00

Gasket Set - Lower

1 $53.00 $53.00

Gasket Set - Upper

1 $85.00 $85.00

Valve Springs- M20 double

12 $9.30 $111.6

all in USD also.

So total cost in NZD is roughly $6600. So in short - don't modify the M20 unless you don't have a choice

[ED1RTY 2]

badass

you rule

[drifty325i 0]

Thats going to be the sweetest m20 around ! what kind of revs will you pull out of it?

[Silver Fox 43]

Very nice, going to have it ready for Puke in September?

[Mike 1]

Ireland Engineering have ruled in customer support

first time for everything i guess

will be TFB when done though

Edited August 15, 2007 by Mike

[hybrid 1044]

so tuff ... nice work

[Andrew 30]

Very nice, going to have it ready for Puke in September?

Well I've entered. So I bloody well hope so.

Rough plan is - head/block build next week. Get car to workshop on teh Saturday next week. Put engine in - tune. Done.

The head is costing about 3 times what I thought it would. But should flow very nicely with the planned mods.

[Silver Fox 43]

You looking to do a track day beforehand?

[Andrew 30]

You looking to do a track day beforehand?

Maybe the Friday - but I'm not too fussed. I'll just take it easy in the race to get used to the power and brakes.

Motor doesn't need to be run in really - I'll get most of that out of the way on the dyno.

[Steve K-B 51]

Sounds good Andrew, Now the My old mans gonna have to get a bit of power to match ya....

[Andrew 30]

Sounds good Andrew, Now the My old mans gonna have to get a bit of power to match ya....

Hah this is my loser way of keeping up

[crshbndct 0]

not to piss on your parade, and i am green with envy that you have the means to builds such an outstanding car, but wouldnt a swap for a different motor have yielded better results?

not sure what the rules are, but it seems to be must retain same engine, but with unlimited mods? what class you racing in?