matt45 1 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 hi all, not sure if this is the right section to be posting in, but anyway, i'm a bmw n00b looking to buy a e36 323 2.5L 1996 auto coupe, the ones in my price range (8-9k) are around the 100,000km mark and was hopping someone could shed any light on the following. 1. cambelt or chain driven? 2. cost of cambelt replacement aprox? 3. what else should be done at the 100k service? (waterpump?) 4. common faults to look for when inspecting? and these last 3 everyone is probably sick of hearing but i cant seem to find a straight answer newhere: 5. can i run/ should i run ... 95,96 or 98 petrol. 6. How big is the tank? 60L? 7. and how many k's should i expect to get to a tank or per 100km? Thanks all in advance, and sry if these are dumb questions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmpower 3 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) hi all, not sure if this is the right section to be posting in, but anyway, i'm a bmw n00b looking to buy a e36 323 2.5L 1996 auto coupe, the ones in my price range (8-9k) are around the 100,000km mark and was hopping someone could shed any light on the following. 1. cambelt or chain driven? 2. cost of cambelt replacement aprox? 3. what else should be done at the 100k service? (waterpump?) 4. common faults to look for when inspecting? and these last 3 everyone is probably sick of hearing but i cant seem to find a straight answer newhere: 5. can i run/ should i run ... 95,96 or 98 petrol. 6. How big is the tank? 60L? 7. and how many k's should i expect to get to a tank or per 100km? Thanks all in advance, and sry if these are dumb questions. 1. m52 engine, chain driven 2. as above 3. you have inspection I and inspection II - not sure which one arises at 100clicks, i find it's always a good idea to get a service done when you first get a car then you know it has been done, that is if it hasn't just been done by the previous owner. 4. if its an import, the gearbox, check for flaring, and headlining, door card sagging - also water pumps can be an issue it has the plastic impeller - however i we have 3 e36 m2's on the drive, 1 at 60k, 1 at 110k and 1 at 140k and haven't had any problems and haven't heard of any problems from anyone. It may of just been the earlier m50 engine - someone correct me if i'm wrong! 5. you can run any of the 3, i personally run 98 unless i have no choice (middle of nowhere and no gas) i have tried the different ones and believe i get more power and economy from 98 6. from memory 65Ltr 7. depends how you drive and where - like a nana and on open roads less than 10km/l and around 4-500kms for a tank, round town and like ya stole it way over 10km/l and maybe 2-300kms Hope this helps.... Edited July 24, 2008 by bmpower Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Braeden320 0 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) Can answer a few - 1. Chain Driven 2. Unsure what it costs to replace a chain? Havnt heard of it been done on here to often 3. I run 91, seems to be fine. But it his a hotly debated topic 4. Yep 60 or 65l? 5. Most i have got is 715k (long trip) but I usally get 600-650 with 30% town 70% open road. They are a bloody good car, good balance between performance and economy You should get a good one for 8-9k, don't hesitate to offer under the asking price. It is a buyers market Alex from Car spot has a couple at the moment - http://www.carspot.co.nz he's a forum sponser on here Edited July 24, 2008 by braeden. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greenday-rulz21 4 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 The Jatco jerk! beware of this, have seen receipts for 3k if i remember correctly. If the transmision jerks from 1st into second then its got it. Jap imports with the Jatco gearbox are affected although not all. Some people think you can fix it by doing some reset procedure but I believe it either doesn't work or it reverts back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 Good luck with your search. You'll love the car once you get it! Oh and get definitely get a mechanical warranty. You'll hopefully never need it... but it's definitely worth having in case your auto tranny needs replacing etc. One $1000 workshop bill and you'll make your money back! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moktar 7 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 The Jatco jerk! Haha the good old Japco! You dont have to change the Cam Chain just the Tensioners not too sure of price though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmpower 3 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 The Jatco jerk! beware of this, have seen receipts for 3k if i remember correctly. If the transmision jerks from 1st into second then its got it. Jap imports with the Jatco gearbox are affected although not all. Some people think you can fix it by doing some reset procedure but I believe it either doesn't work or it reverts back. My 96 323i coupe had 50k on the clock when i bought it - at 52k it needed a gearbox recon due to the 'jatco jerk' it cost just over 3k to do. if you can get a nz new example with the zf tranny i would take it over the import - the zf seem to cope with cold starts alot better too, having said that, now mine has been done it seems to be fine - my dads 96 323i sedan has 140k on the clock and hasn't had a recon since we've had it. The best advice when buying a car is to get 2 things done, 1. a 'vir report' or 'lemon check' - they are the same thing but will check there is no money owing and any other securities on the vehilce and also odo accuracy and whether it is a damaged import of not. is about $10 2. an aa report/inspection - they do 2, one is about $60 and is a mech check the other is about $120 and is a full mech and body inspection, or alternativly get a bmw workshop to check it out. Spending $150 in the first instance could possibly save you alot of heartache if the vehicle is no good. the vir report has saved me twice, once for odo and once for damaged import. i ended up buying from a dealer, where there is alot more comeback. i work in the industry. my 2c.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
isis 16 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 aa is a waste of time take it to a reputable bmw workshop or dealers. they're more thorough and know what to look for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiss 1 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 aa is a waste of time take it to a reputable bmw workshop or dealers. they're more thorough and know what to look for. Agree on the AA being a waste of time - they will often miss or are not aware of points to be wary of on specific makes and models. Take it to a good BMW repairer/dealer and pay for an assessment to be done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt45 1 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 thanks all that helps heaps! bmpower could you please explain what u mean by "check for flaring, and headlining, door card sagging" thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmpower 3 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 thanks all that helps heaps! bmpower could you please explain what u mean by "check for flaring, and headlining, door card sagging" thanks First in reply to the aa report - yes you would be alot better off by getting a bmw tech to look at it, but failing that get an aa report or get a mechanic to look at it. in a jatco box it is most common between 2nd and 3rd, but i also had it between 1st and 2nd. i'm not a mechanic but i'll describe it the best i can. It normally happens under load ie going uphill. it will be in 2nd for example, then as it changes to 3rd it feels as though it disengages 2nd then pauses and revs up by about 1,000rpm, then drops revs back down and engages 3rd. basically it is not a smooth gear change. i would take the car up a hill if possible, that's where it is most noticiable, however it can be picked up on the flat too. it might be worth a quick google on 'flaring' or on the 'e36 jatco auto box' there might be a better explanation. Headlining as in the ceiling inside the car - the material comes away from its backing board (crap glue was used) and same with the material on the door cards, if its not vinyl. again it is most common on imports where their weather takes its toll a bit more by unsticking the glue. nz new cars tend to be less likely to have this happen, but i have seen a couple that have sagged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew 30 Report post Posted July 24, 2008 With 90% town and 10% open road I get around 500kms a tank. Run it on 91 fuel. I would just avoid a car with the Jatco box. I have had 3 E36s 323i and the two I have had with Jatco have been terrible. The current car is Jatco and is acceptable (a slight 1st to 2nd jerk, worse when cold). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 Like this one Andrew?? 323 with special vacumn radiator! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex 693 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 Like this one Andrew?? 323 with special vacumn radiator! How much would we all like to go on a rampage against wankers that use M3 references towards non M3's. M3 racing seats?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 How much would we all like to go on a rampage against wankers that use M3 references towards non M3's. M3 racing seats?? God I hate that sort of thing. For example yesterday I searched 54oi and got 520s 525s, mercs, etc! For example... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-166164970.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt45 1 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 hmmmm ok thanks...... would i be correct to assume that none of the nz new cars have the jatco box? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 hmmmm ok thanks...... would i be correct to assume that none of the nz new cars have the jatco box? Yup Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmpower 3 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 (edited) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-167334502.htm I know its an import, but damn i love this colour with the white leather. has an m-tech steering wheel, bbs rims, heated seats, sunroof, mtech kit and wait for it ............cupholders!!!!! Could be a nice buy for someone! If i could be bothered with the hassle and my car didn't have only 60k i would be keen to sell mine and get it! Oh and another, same colour etc, lower k's for 9k http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-167213339.htm Edited July 25, 2008 by bmpower Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew 30 Report post Posted July 25, 2008 How much would we all like to go on a rampage against wankers that use M3 references towards non M3's. M3 racing seats?? I put M3 seats in it when I owned it.. would hardly call them racing seats. I was a smoker and I'd find it hard to believe that car still doesn't reek of smoke hah. Yes the radiator in that car is held together with some vacuum cleaner hose (when I owned it) and the gearbox was really f**ked. It may have all been repaired since then as he is not the guy I sold the car to. Edit: I would like to add the radiator mod was WAY stronger than it was stock (Cheers Will!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
