Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 21, 2009 Words cannot describe how jealous I am right now. Nice work as always Henry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 21, 2009 (edited) I intend to be steering NOT WITH THE STEERING WHEEL, but with the throttle, correctly modulated and controlled of course, AND NO HANDS! ahahaha. *You rock Nathan, you'll do the same thing one day I know it. Edited June 21, 2009 by Incary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted June 21, 2009 So in setting up mine I should try for max Castor? I'm planning on running around 2.4degrees camber, I also have to be mindful that im running 16x9s with 225/45/16s so i cant run to much Castor as i will clip my guards with the tire What do you guys think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted June 21, 2009 They seem to like castor - just run as much as you can without having the tyres rub. The ground control pics totally oversell the practical benefit of their OMG camber abilities. I understand there's no point in having much over 2.5-3 deg unless you use slicks, etc, and in JiB's case this much camber only required about 10-15mm offset from centre. Plus, to use the full adjustment GC show in the pic, you have to cut the tower to make space for the allen head bolts, which isn't especially practical. For this reason, I think on JiB's car he only has about 5mm of extra caster put in. Basically it looks more like the "competitor" picture. It can go further, but not without some cutting. If you wanna see caster I should take a pic of the M3 some time. It's an Evo, so longer control arms, but I also had the control arm bushings replaced with the offset ones, so the wheel is visibly forward in the arch. I like it, but the steering is quite weighty. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted June 21, 2009 Looks good, can definitly see the extra lenght my springs have. Are you certed/warranted with it? That wasn't a high priority when I decided on this set up. Nah I need to shorten the shocks still found this after the fact .. but no biggie Car really is still in workshop mode ... about to start the next phase on it. mockup and engine build. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Ahh yes thanks, was trying to search for those pics last night, I knew I'd seen them before. Looks good, can definitly see the extra lenght my springs have. Are you certed/warranted with it? That wasn't a high priority when I decided on this set up. Nah I need to shorten the shocks still found this after the fact .. but no biggie Car really is still in workshop mode ... about to start the next phase on it. mockup and engine build. I was under the impression GC started using a "Barrel" shaped spring in the rear (like Hybrids)!?!?!? (which are incorrectly in the front in his link if I recall). This is because the straight coil's have a taller block height (ie. fully compressed / coil bound) and they were having a lot of complaints about bent trailing arms, this was due to the spring binding (mid way along the TA) before the shock had reached full travel. You will have to be careful of this considering you are running longer & softer springs, ie. will block out easier. Their springs are also too short to remain captive at full travel, as required by our WOF regulations (not an issue for the yanks), and as such hybrid has had to shorten the rear shocks, which is not a particularly ideal solution as this also reduced the droop travel available, and E30's are particularly sensitive to the lack droop in the rear when it comes to traction & lateral grip. Edited June 22, 2009 by E30-323ti Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 Im not using a stock e30 trailing arm setup. Uprated mcoupe trailing arm setup so im not too phased about this. The springs are around the correct way. I would sure feel it with 700pound springs in the front Anyways back on topic ... your really going to enjoy this setup especially the camber tops. Sorry, but dont listen to people bleeting on how too much this and too much that. Dialing in correct camber / castor with the way you drive your vehicle is awesome. The GC kit really does turn your e30 into a go cart! from someone whos been running it for 2 years with nothing but awesome results. enjoy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 They seem to like castor - just run as much as you can without having the tyres rub. The ground control pics totally oversell the practical benefit of their OMG camber abilities. I understand there's no point in having much over 2.5-3 deg unless you use slicks, etc, and in JiB's case this much camber only required about 10-15mm offset from centre. Plus, to use the full adjustment GC show in the pic, you have to cut the tower to make space for the allen head bolts, which isn't especially practical. For this reason, I think on JiB's car he only has about 5mm of extra caster put in. Basically it looks more like the "competitor" picture. It can go further, but not without some cutting. If you wanna see caster I should take a pic of the M3 some time. It's an Evo, so longer control arms, but I also had the control arm bushings replaced with the offset ones, so the wheel is visibly forward in the arch. I like it, but the steering is quite weighty. Just as I thought mate thanks. Oh and on the new GC Camber plates you do not have to cut the struts to get full adjustment as the allen head bolts are now flush. Also you only really need 2x the bolts to lock them in correctly so im told by various people. This wont be a concern for me as i wont be running that much castor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 Exactly what i was about to type up Riley, they are great pieces. And we shall see about the rear springs, I don't intend to be sacking my car, I like my diff and oil pan in 1 piece ahaa. And yes hybrid, I will enjoy. I'll be dialing in max camber and max castor, with less tire pressure. More grip will ensue. Wait for the pics of summit rd thrashing.... There will be sideways. EXAMS ARE OVER! (650ml beer times 4) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 I really really envy your suspentional fortitude. new word. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) ^ Henry just don't stack it like I did as soon as you finish it Lucky you finished exams Edited June 22, 2009 by Forrest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 Suspentional fortitude is a great set of words. There won't be too much stacking ha, I would be gutted, the subframe took so long to paint ahaaha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 ^ Are you going to paint the front one to match? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 22, 2009 When the engine comes out I shall. Probably before summer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 Rear end almost back together, subframe was a BITCH. Front is ready to bolt in. Will be driving it tomorrow BACK TO THE CAR! Will be working till sunset has long passed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JiB 2 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) You will giggle when you drive the car again. I can guarantee that. Are you running an aftermarket diff bush too? Or just subframe bushes? Btw, re: barrel shaped rear springs - when I bought my kit, race rates are straight, the barrel ones are street rates. Edited June 23, 2009 by JiB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 Yeah I have the AKG diff bushing, it's made a few appearences in the thread so far :D Shots from today. Pretty much have the rear end in. Subframe was a nightmare, the bolts weren't lining up with the aluminium sleves in the bushings. After an hour of mucking around I devised a plan, I took the Al sleeve out and put the subframe up, then used 3 fingers to flex the bottom of the bolt across with the sleeve while my sister smacked the bottom of it. WIN. And the front struts are all wrong. GC have shortened the shocks too much. In the pic that's the highest I can run it.. The shocks would be perfect for the 6 inch spring BUT I GOT THE 8 INCH, GAH. Incredibly annoying. can I get these shocks lengthened? And keep my custom valving? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 Dang thats so annoying!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeddy 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 Damn what a shame. Any possible ideas about what you can do? have you let them know? Sorry i couldn't come and help, i'm tied up with exams until Thursday. If there's still anything you need help with after then, let me know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 And the front struts are all wrong. GC have shortened the shocks too much. In the pic that's the highest I can run it.. The shocks would be perfect for the 6 inch spring BUT I GOT THE 8 INCH, GAH. Incredibly annoying. can I get these shocks lengthened? And keep my custom valving? So, it that second pic, is that not all bolted together?? (Looks like it is) If it is, what is the problem?? The collar can be wound all the way up to the top of the threaded portion (ie preloading the spring). Or, are you saying the "free length" of the shock/strut assembly is "too short" for what you want?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) Damn that sux Henry! As E30-323ti has mentioned which adjustment do you mean? The collar that the spring sits on simply adjusts how much the spring is compressed not the height of the car. I would have thought there was a second collar which sits against the lower half of the strut and you would wind that up and down to lower/raise the car. Edited June 23, 2009 by Boost Junky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 Damn that sux Henry! As E30-323ti has mentioned which adjustment do you mean? The collar that the spring sits on simply adjusts how much the spring is compressed not the height of the car. I would have thought there was a second collar which sits against the lower half of the strut and you would wind that up and down to lower/raise the car. You are thinking of the JDM style shocks (BC's & D2 also) where you can adjust the ride height independently of the spring preload (ie. the amount of sag taken up when you lower the car down). With the GC's & even my Koni struts a combination of preload & spring rate determines the ride height by the adjustable collar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 You are thinking of the JDM style shocks (BC's & D2 also) where you can adjust the ride height independently of the spring preload (ie. the amount of sag taken up when you lower the car down). With the GC's & even my Koni struts a combination of preload & spring rate determines the ride height by the adjustable collar. Ahh yes indeed I must be, didnt realise they were different shot for clearing that up. So you would need different length springs like Henry was saying to get the right height? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 The shock stanchion doesn't extend far enough out of the shock housing. Therefore the max ride height is limited by this because the spring is 2 inches longer than GC spec, and clearly they have given me shocks for 6 inch long springs. I'm still going to have the max ride height that 6 inch springs give, but I'm only able to lower it about 1cm, I could get the new spring perch welded on about 5cm lower to get the full range of height adjustment, but that defeats the purpose, it'd be much to low.. I wanted longer springs for long travel, but I still have the same travel as 6 inch springs, and hardly any height adjustability. If I just wind the collar up I'll get massive preload on the spring, and a harsher ride. The only option really is getting the shocks un-shortened. I assume this can be done. I hope. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) Yeah - just wind 'er up like the man says. (edit) - ok, I see your reply now. Seriously, the preload may not be the issue you think it is. The weight of the car does that job too. Have you put it on the ground like it is now? On that note, you should wind up the rears too if you haven't already stuck it on the ground and found out - JiB's are barely captive and its reasonably low at the back. Edited June 23, 2009 by CamB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
