DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted December 20, 2009 Went to get the rear end of the car rebuilt and wait for it... no problems!!!!!!!!! well i could say that but then i would be lieing... Went to put the rear calipers on the car and whooooooooo all the piston seals are screwed... by what looks to be a large pineapple... So now the hunt is on to find a rebuild kit in nz, and get the calipers rebuilt before the 9th of jan when i'm meant to be doing the cannonball run... also for the continuation of the super news, there are officially 0 phase 2 reverse lights in New Zealand... God Damm i love living here at times... I can get them out of Aussie at $50 AUD + shipping... SDHGaLLKJHLKGJSDGLKUJH)(*$#!@)@^#)%*^YTPIUDPF(*WE+)* W$YP(YW(*GHWHGSDO:G:SLDJGHG grrrr... I HATE YOU CAR AT TIMES! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted December 20, 2009 also decided on the eventual kit for the car: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted December 20, 2009 Called Greg today about a seal kit for the car and he mentioned he's still possiblely got my 306 calipers still so i'll collect thoes today and hopefully they are ok enough to get me by until i can rebuild the rear calipers off the 205... Figure while they are off give them a complete rebuild as i'm wondering if the binding i've been getting after using the handbrake has been from sticky pistons... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted December 20, 2009 That kit looks sweet, Heath! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted December 20, 2009 also decided on the eventual kit for the car: That looks good even for a Pug! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted December 21, 2009 Will you paint it with the pretty flowers too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 10, 2010 Just a small update as to work done over the holidays. Full wash and machine wax. New speedo cable installed. Wheel alignment done. Current wheel alignment settings = Front toe = 1.5 degrees toe out Front Camber = 2 degrees negative Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted January 10, 2010 How about a bit of a post Cannonball writeup mate with some more pics? I had updates and pics all day from Cain on FB from his Mk6 Golf GTi - am defo goin' next year Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 10, 2010 Can do... just let me finish washing and waxng the 406 and i'll do it after that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 (edited) After taking Ashkan for a drive last night and feeling how the back end of the car is behaving since i've done the solid mounts, torsion bars and anti-roll bar. I've decided i need to look at a rear wing/spoiler for the car as although now i can get traction at the front because the rear is nice and stiff, the back is too light (for the lack of a better word) and is dancing around a bit. I've been researching all day - and doing work in between and have decided on two looks that have proven functionality: the 306 maxi spoiler: or the f2000 205 wing: Most likely i'll be looking at them towards the end of the year but something needs to get on the back of it to help the rear stay in place. I"m currently prefering the f2000 wing Peter White in dunners runs this on his 205, which he's made himself - as to confirm what i've been reading it's the single biggest improvement to the car he's made: Edited January 15, 2010 by DRTDVL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 I've decided i need to look at a rear wing/spoiler for the car [/img] Hmm let me see. (fires up Solidworks) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 Cheers for taking for a drive last night Heath, was definitly an experience. Was really stunned at how much get up and go this thing has, and it stuck to the road superbly! That second spoiler does look alot better also IMO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JiB 2 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 Just wondering, but - if the rear is too stiff, then perhaps softening it slighty and increasing the roll stiffness in front may keep the traction out of corners and increase grip at the rear? (win win) Would also help with higher speed stability? My 2c ...That said, setting a FWD up for oversteer in low speed with big understeer at higher speeds (high rear downforce bias) is also a good way of doing things, but remember - the underside of the wing does most of the work so maybe have a look at underbody aero while you're at it? My 2.5c Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 (edited) Just wondering, but - if the rear is too stiff, then perhaps softening it slighty and increasing the roll stiffness in front may keep the traction out of corners and increase grip at the rear? (win win) Would also help with higher speed stability? My 2c ...That said, setting a FWD up for oversteer in low speed with big understeer at higher speeds (high rear downforce bias) is also a good way of doing things, but remember - the underside of the wing does most of the work so maybe have a look at underbody aero while you're at it? My 2.5c The biggest problem i was having with the car prior to the work i've done is too soft in the rear of the car causing lots of sag and lifting the inside front off the ground. Increasing the rear anti-roll and rear spring rates was what i was told to do to help prevent the roll to the outside rear and compression in the rear to both prevent the lifting of the front. The 205's are very well known for this behavior and from what i've been reading i'm still too soft in the rear compared to most of the other 205's racing around the world with a 24mm anti roll bar (i've got that) and a 21 or 22mm torsion bar set (i'm running 19mm) recommended for tarmac rallys, and 28mm antiroll bars and 24 - 26mm torsion bars for track work. Some of the more hardcore (over sprung cars in my mind) are running 30mm antiroll bars and 26-28mm torsion bars - they are however running full slicks. I was running standard road tyres (well past best used by - they have been cooked a few times and are rather slippery) and not semi-slicks that might have been a big part of the lack of grip, but i'm thinking that with the extra grip the semi-slicks provide it's just going to mask the underlaying problem and bit me in the ass at higher speeds. One thing i really don't want to loose if i can from increasing the front roll stiffness is the turn-in and the cars amazing ability to change direction. MLM and I have already talked about undercar aero where it's mainly the rear bumper acting as a parachute - Peter White recommended removing it as he has done for the targas he's been in. Would it be possible for you to come look at the car JIB or i can bring the car to you guys and you and the SAE boys and give me suggestions/advice? Edited January 15, 2010 by DRTDVL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 Cheers for taking for a drive last night Heath, was definitly an experience. Was really stunned at how much get up and go this thing has, and it stuck to the road superbly! That second spoiler does look alot better also IMO No probs man... here i was thinking i need more grip and a better shifter setup the whole drive... It was the first time i've driven the car quickly with the new setup... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 Is the problem at all speeds, or only at the speeds where aero actually makes a difference? I'm sort of under the impression that a "mobile" rear end is an almost inevitable product of a FWD car that turns in well, and you have to drive accordingly (don't lift)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fuzyfrog 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 You haven't lived till you have put a 205 backwards through a hedge Well thats what people kept telling me when i had mine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2010 i've had my old one leading me ass end first into a corner ice racing styles before on gravel... lots of fun but not fast Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 Well figured out why i couldn't hook gears with Ashkan in the car... The shifter pivot bushes completed destroyed themselves today when i was in port waikato... WHOOO nothing like being in 5th and being able to move the gear lever all the way over to where 1st or 2nd should normally be... Time to redesign/make some new bushes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JiB 2 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 Would it be possible for you to come look at the car JIB or i can bring the car to you guys and you and the SAE boys and give me suggestions/advice? Maybe ask me in a couple of months when the 2010 suspension design's been finalised (means I'll probably be less of a retard at vehicle dynamics). It's also kind hard to tell when I don't really understand torsion bars, nor how it's placing wheels in bump/heave. And ideally suspension should be set up for the tyres, I'm guessing ideal camber/castor/slip angle for road vs semi are extremely different (my e30 drives like pooo when not using r888's, almost feels like too much castor at times). So maybe figure out what rubber you want to run first, then see if over/under is a problem with them? Then start diagnosing problems from there? Again, my retarded 2c. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2010 Well not really an update, but the temp shifter bushes MLM made for the car finally crapped out... and it looks i'll need to get something much much stronger made as they didn't last all that long... Ashkan that will be why i couldn't find 3rd on the drive we did, there was too much play in the bushes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2010 Also had it confirmed that the car is sitting deadly flat in the corners now so all the rear end work has done it's thing! Whoop whoop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted February 19, 2010 Update Time: 1) Ordered the new bushes from Peugeot for the gear stick - so i'll be able to hopefully have that installed in time for the upcoming drive day - they are ex-france so yeah. They ended up being delayed a week as the drunkin frenchman forgot to put the on the Peugeot NZ weekly shipment. i've also modeled up the new bushes to allow me to make some new ones. When i went to fit the new bushes i noticed was a gap between the bush and the gearstick mounting bracket, i managed to find a nice washer to pack out most of the gap. I'll revise the model later to include the extra 1.5mm of space to fill the gap. 2) Ordered a set of 8 wheel studs from the uk coming to a grand total of $93 NZD including shipping via royal mail... Which arrived on Monday - Spent Tuesday night fitting them. They held in with LOCTITE® 262 3) this is just cool: love how stiff the car is... 4) Managed to source a second hand matching wing mirror for the car also as the original one snapped off the day of the 4 and Rotary Nationals while cleaning the car. It turns out that the wing mirror is not a standard GTI part and only came on cars in 1988 as far as i can tell at this point as all the other GTI's, i've looked at have different wing mirrors. I'll look at strengthening the repair on the other wing mirror and have it as a emergency spare. Painted and Fitted the wing mirror last night. 5) Fixed the drivers door lock as it was no longer locking or unlocking, turns out the plastic has worn where on the mounting part for the barrel and the lock/unlock mech. I've made a pad out of duct tape which is mounted behind the plastic part so should it start to come loose again it can't fall off. It's not touching it just about 1.5mm away. 6) I couldn't use the ceramic cloth heat shield due to the existing heatshield and shifter rods getting in the way so i decided to use some high temp foil tape to try and reflect some of the heat. Right for those that care the foil tape i've used is:http://www.shop3m.com/3m-high-temperature-aluminum-foil-tape-433-x5tjdv44bw.html?WT.z_xsell=1&WT.z_refSKU=3M-ALUMINUM-FOIL-TAPE-425-M0W7G3TRKR It really really really doesn't like sticking to unclean surfaces. I used Amazing Haste - Wax and Grease Remover (again from Auckland Engineering Supplies - note they do a racers discount!) its fantastic... even on 3-4mm thick oil/grease/grim build up. Removed the heat shield, cleaned and dried, applied foil tape to it. Then went about cleaning the trans tunnel from the gearstick to the end of the manifold (half way up the firewall) with the exhaust in place - as i'm driving the car this weekend i couldn't be bothered removing the exhaust in case i need new gaskets. It's all done, not the best job... but that would entail using a hoist, exhaust removed, spray gun, and air tools to clean with. Just need to get a few washers for the wheels and i'll be able to refit the road rims. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted February 22, 2010 Well the foil tape did it's job was a noted drop in time before it got nice and hot in the car... I'd recommend it to others with stripped out interior. Also i am sure that I'm going to need a new master for the handbrake and rebuild of the rear brakes after the drive yesterday. We when parked up to met Dylan, i pulled the handbrake up and it locked on... No matter what i did i couldn't get it to release, finally got it to release by opening the bias valve to full rear brake and pumping the handbrake leaver down with the foot pedal while holding the handbrake up. Seeing as how the old master wouldn't lock the rear wheels i'll be looking at going from the 5/8's to either a 1in or 3/4 size master for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted February 22, 2010 (edited) Sounds like it might have stuck. So with the heat shield tape, did you stick it to the existing stamped steel/alloy (don't remember what it is) heat shield? Edited February 22, 2010 by CamB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
