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westy

The bastard child.

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0.5º over stock is a bit too tight / prescriptive IMHO

Presuming that motorsport authority cards won't be tasked with exemptions more geometry.

How will dual use (either road car - track car, or tarmac rally - circuit car) which need over the +0.5º camber get on.... E36 is the first thing that pops to mind which typically need -3º -4º camber or roughly >2º over stock up front.

*shakes fist at the bureaucracy of it all*

[edit]

or you just stick some tubular control arms on and say it's 'scratch built' not OE ??

[/edit]

Edited by E30-323ti

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I read that as "dont lower you car to stupid heights with massive amounts of camber then fit unsuitable spring rates because your wheels hit your guards so you can chase fashion over function" The rest is down to certifier disgression.

This is probably an attempt to control unreasonable suspension geometry, however the stated limits would be hard to police. It does however still give the ability to refuse what is wrong and dangerous with a stated clause.

Suspect (hope) this is true. By the smell of it, it wont apply to Authority Cards.

Mutters about moving goal posts ect....

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This

From a reliable source. Certifiers constantly train/amend things as things as they go. Not sure if this one has a hope of lasting as makes all sorts of headaches for all sorts of people. Lets hope not.

Hmmm probably something thats in draft at the moment and being tested. It will be driven from kids messing with their suspension however what usually happens with these ammendments is if they dont standup as a rule for all, EG take all circumstances into account including legit ones, then they just get turned into a guide open to interpretation and left to the certifier.

I wouldnt stress about it. Build your car to the current rules and put it through. You'll be fine.

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heres the LVVTA info sheet from March 2012

motorsport cars exempt with authority card, all others +/- 0.5degree from factory specs.

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thanks for posting that .. where did you get that from? I couldnt find anything about it on the LVVTA site.

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was posted on NZ hondas and then a link to it was on NZ Silvias. Seems alot of people are worried about the limitations it might cause them.

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Cool, It just means that people cant use camber as a get out of jail free card anymore for wheel offsets.

Its actually a good thing really, as glenn said earlier it will stop noobs lowering their cars without doing anything about corrective camber plates etc.

What they should actually concerntrate on is spring rates vs shock stiffness .. EG too hard a spring for the shocks dampening capablity. Causing a car to bounce instead of operate as properly and dampen the impact.

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Cool, It just means that people cant use camber as a get out of jail free card anymore for wheel offsets.

Its actually a good thing really, as glenn said earlier it will stop noobs lowering their cars without doing anything about corrective camber plates etc.

What they should actually concerntrate on is spring rates vs shock stiffness .. EG too hard a spring for the shocks dampening capablity. Causing a car to bounce instead of operate as properly and dampen the impact.

your preaching to the converted.

I completely agree. Too many people modify suspension and have no idea how its actually affecting handling and safety.

It will kill the hellaflush/stance movement but that doesnt really bother me at all as function>form

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Thanks Tarrbaby.

Bugger though.

It will kill the hellaflush/stance movement but that doesnt really bother me at all as function>form

hmmm I dont think it will kill it as such but will probably mean people will run camber plates and adjust them for shows when they have their wheels on. Run normal wheels when there car is being dailyed.

Westy just needs to realise he now needs to go the the same tire wall profile as me :D weather he likes it or not.

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What about adjustable camber stuff? Or would the cert plate be stamped with xx degrees and any change will make it void?

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Westy just needs to realise he now needs to go the the same tire wall profile as me :D weather he likes it or not.

And just what does that entail?

What about adjustable camber stuff? Or would the cert plate be stamped with xx degrees and any change will make it void?

Dunno, bro.

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And just what does that entail?

225/35r17 falken fk452 / toyo or dunlops with slight shampher .. not a straight walled tire.

gets rid of your issues in one fowl swoop.

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I had a 215/40 in mind as seems to be easy 8" wheel fit but I dont think either of those sizes are gonna cut it on the other wheels without a couple degrees camber in front. And I dont think 2 degrees is excessive.

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For some reason i thought you had 8.5s sqaure

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Something else...any chance an E30 coolant temp sensor is compatible with the E46 gauge/does the ECU use it?

Looking for radiator options and dont what to sacrifice arm and leg for E46 crap that'll blow up in 10 mins flat!

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E36 Mishimoto Aluminum radiator like all the Americans rave about? Or am I missing a vital point here.

and, judging by my M52 sitting on a table, It has two separate(ecu, cluster) sensors.. this engine is from an E39.

Edited by antil33t

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E36 Mishimoto Aluminum radiator like all the Americans rave about? Or am I missing a vital point here.

and, judging by my M52 sitting on a table, It has two separate(ecu, cluster) sensors.. this engine is from an E39.

Vital point, I'm a cheap bastard and aint gonna pay $500 for crappy E46 cooling parts. If I can fit an E30 type radiator then thats what I'll do.

Theres a coolant sensor in the radiator outlet pipe fancy pants clip fitting that'll need sorting though cause the E30's an old fashioned (reliable) hose clamp.

PS, M52tu.

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Im using a m50 alloy radiator, worked in the m20 and works with my m50 so assume it will work with your m52? I will dig up where I got it from but it was around $450ish. Can even borrow my one if you want to test it first to make sure, it's out of the car and will be for a while, has big fan stuck to it aswell if you need that.

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99% sure the other radiators will fit the hole, just need to sort

1. Temp sensor in lower hose connection

2. 2x small return hoses from engine and heater. Presume I can return these to a fitting made to go into the upper hose before it enters the radiator?

Or is this just a crap idea ha?

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What is the temp sensor in the lower hose for?

I reckon an E34 M50 Radiator might be the go? if it's anything like my M52, there's an inlet and outlet metal pipe for the heater, and another pipe that goes to an expansion tank. (it's just attached to the radiator)

then top and bottom hose from the t-stat housing goes into the radiator, I think the M50/2 has a much simpler system than the M20.

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The temp sensor is for post radiator cooling measurement. The DME detects if its not getting enough cooling and steps up the pusher fan speed.

Assuming your not running a clutch fan. I would keep that sensors (before and after cooling) as they are used by the DME to determine stuff. More than just the obvious. The information calculated and averaged with oil temp to give an overall engine temp and this is compared against a lookup table in the DME and will effect performance.

post-373-1337150105.png

Where 255 is a decimal representation of the hex value FF stored in the map, which if you map it to standard BMW temp sensors is 0-150 degrees C (both for oil and water).

If your switching to a manual system EG standard mercury switch with relay for fan speed then youll need to pipe in temp switch as well. This is what i'm doing.

Doing this your DME will bitch about the not being able to control AC cooling but meh. Shouldnt throw up any lights on the dash.

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Ta Josh.

Turns, out after some poking around, all the plastic connecters are the same pattern with one having a sensor boss cast into it. I should be able to move the sensor to the inlet of the thermostat housing, if there's enough room, and keep it.

Now I just need to figure the plumbing of the two smaller hoses. I'm a bit of a noob with the finer points of coolant plumbing ha.

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Some random shots of stuff I've been mucking around with.

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