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Andrew

E46 330i (07/2001) Throttle Response

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Just got Mum a 330i.

The electronic throttle is rank - not linear and way too sensitive at the top of its travel. I know the car has a lot of torque which probably doesn't help, but is there any way (or any software updates) that make the throttle more.. cable like?

Cheers

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None that I know of

Do they all take a bit of getting used to?

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I dont like it much either but you do get used to it.

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Just got Mum a 330i.

The electronic throttle is rank - not linear and way too sensitive at the top of its travel. I know the car has a lot of torque which probably doesn't help, but is there any way (or any software updates) that make the throttle more.. cable like?

Cheers

Bring it over, Ill reset the DME/EGS adaptive maps and it can adapt to your mums style of driving. It takes about a week / a tank of gas to settle in to its new driving style.

The other thing is you may have what mine suffering from, dull sensors, which really affects the throttle response. Always gets worse when its 15-20 degrees c and raining.

Another cause of this is the accelerator pedal potentiometer (which gives signal for throttle can play up, however I think from what your discribing its just the adaptive maps and possible sensors problems)

Anyways .. bring it over we can take it from there.

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A reset might change things...alot of people mention this when they go from an older BMW to the new fly by wire systems. If your going to check it Josh....check fault codes as well... there may be a fault in the DME or EGS

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A reset might change things...alot of people mention this when they go from an older BMW to the new fly by wire systems. If your going to check it Josh....check fault codes as well... there may be a fault in the DME or EGS

no probs .. will post results if andys keen.

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Cool Josh - I'll give you a bell sometime next week.

Checked for fault codes, only a cat sensor error in there. Have reset it and will see if it comes back.

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Cool Josh - I'll give you a bell sometime next week.

Checked for fault codes, only a cat sensor error in there. Have reset it and will see if it comes back.

What was the actual code ? word for word ?

If it was a limit reached fault code I would suggest checking the MAF sensor, on a 330 you should get at least 500 kg at full throttle and it should respond smoothly through the ranges of throttle activation. You need to check it while driving with the scanner in live data.

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Cool Josh - I'll give you a bell sometime next week.

Checked for fault codes, only a cat sensor error in there. Have reset it and will see if it comes back.

As glenn says, thats all it needs.

A knock on effect can happen, While the car has fail safes the e46 is a little bitch when it comes to driviblity (wierd throttle, funny small problems / lack of power etc) when a sensor is giving you grief.

When you are driving on the flat underload and then go up an incline you may notice the power 'flat-spot' or drop off.

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Bring it over, Ill reset the DME/EGS adaptive maps and it can adapt to your mums style of driving. It takes about a week / a tank of gas to settle in to its new driving style.

Battery off - wait 15min - battery on = RESET :lol:

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Bring it up Andrew and we`ll test while driving with the scanner in live data.

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That doesnt actually work ... tried it many times.

Thats right....you have to clear adaptions in DME & EGS with a scanner. They wont clear with a battery reset

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Hey guys,

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was just wondering what the outcome of all this was. Im having the same problem in my 330i (auto) and its really killing my driving experience to the point where ive thought about selling the car. Which I really dont want to have to do. I know its not a missfire and its had diagnostics performed but no fault codes came up. There are the odd days when the car is absolutly beautiful to drive but more of those days are spent with me trying to tolerate a very notchy throttle.

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Just a further observation.. It seems to drive alot smoother at night. So maybe its a sensor (maybe air flow meter)? but if the air flow meter was defective wouldnt the car run funny all the time?

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Just a further observation.. It seems to drive alot smoother at night. So maybe its a sensor (maybe air flow meter)? but if the air flow meter was defective wouldnt the car run funny all the time?

No... most sensors are temperature sensitive. Most of the time, MAF will not throw a fault code unless it stops working completely. If its out of callibration, you can only check this by driving with the scanner and check live data.

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No... most sensors are temperature sensitive. Most of the time, MAF will not throw a fault code unless it stops working completely. If its out of callibration, you can only check this by driving with the scanner and check live data.

Cheers Glen. Btw thanks for the advice yesterday! Im still leaning towards this manual 328ci if it drives good but ive spent quite a bit of money on my 330i so im really reluctant to let it go. Driving feel is important to me though. If I can get it to drive smoother i'll definatly hold on to it and put up with the auto.

Can I bring the car to you sometime to hook it up to a scanner?

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Cheers Glen. Btw thanks for the advice yesterday! Im still leaning towards this manual 328ci if it drives good but ive spent quite a bit of money on my 330i so im really reluctant to let it go. Driving feel is important to me though. If I can get it to drive smoother i'll definatly hold on to it and put up with the auto.

Can I bring the car to you sometime to hook it up to a scanner?

By all means... just ring me first

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By all means... just ring me first

Will do.. I know your busy this week so i'll give you a call next week sometime. :)

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Glenn has you on the right diagnosis track as usual.

This is a problem I have gone through as well.

You'll notice when you go on long drives it goes away or if it cold or raining. In summer the car doesn't like hot / muggy weather.

A simple reset of the EGS and DME adaptive maps works .. but only for around a week.

Thing I have found are:

MAF damaged or need cleaning

ICV and throttle body get clogged with crud and blowback after about 100,000 ks onwards.

DISA valve

The myrid of sensors such as O2 pre and/or post cat

I still have to replace my crank sensor to see if mine settles.

The bitch is a lot of the time it doesn't throw up an error as the car is driving normally as far as its concerned. Its just amplified by hot weather.

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Glenn has you on the right diagnosis track as usual.

This is a problem I have gone through as well.

You'll notice when you go on long drives it goes away or if it cold or raining. In summer the car doesn't like hot / muggy weather.

A simple reset of the EGS and DME adaptive maps works .. but only for around a week.

Thing I have found are:

MAF damaged or need cleaning

ICV and throttle body get clogged with crud and blowback after about 100,000 ks onwards.

DISA valve

The myrid of sensors such as O2 pre and/or post cat

I still have to replace my crank sensor to see if mine settles.

The bitch is a lot of the time it doesn't throw up an error as the car is driving normally as far as its concerned. Its just amplified by hot weather.

This is totally correct! Ive been observing it closer lately and the cars definatly only doing this on hot days. Have I read correctly that you still have this problem? :( how long have you been trying to fix it. Its so subtle but it really does kill the driving experience. Love BMW's but I hate hate hate this electronic sh*t! lol

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This is totally correct! Ive been observing it closer lately and the cars definatly only doing this on hot days. Have I read correctly that you still have this problem? :( how long have you been trying to fix it. Its so subtle but it really does kill the driving experience. Love BMW's but I hate hate hate this electronic sh*t! lol

BMW know of these problems and have never given a fix for them. You can clear adaptions (short term fix), but your can't reflash the software without a fix from BMW... there is no software available to recode with as far as I am aware. We have looked into this several times. We just need to check first if there are any fault codes, check live data (driving) and see if anything is out of scale or trim.

Edited by *Glenn*

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Yeah still have it ... Its not really a problem for me so much.

I found that after a trip to Gisborne and back it really did wonders. Not only did it tell the adpative maps to stop wallowing around in town mode, It also cleaned all the crud build up and made the car run smoother etc etc.

Do you get a faint hunting issue when you under load (foot mild on the accelerator) Driving up the harbour bridge shows it for me ..

The revs will rise then drop about 100-200 RPM under load. I haven't got around to replacing my O2 sensors yet (I have pre and post cat ones) so at $600 each x 4 get pretty expensive.

I have tried to replace the MAF with a know good one, no change and my MAF is reading correctly (I have a scanner)

I have a crank sensor that I will install/replace soon but will do it when I have an afternoon as it requires me removing my radiator.

CPS (cam position sensor) are another option

This problem doesn’t relate to the intake boot split problem (post MAF, Pre In take manifold) as I have checked :)

Another thing to also think about is the Fly-by-wire throttle pedal (Throttle’s poteitameter) but I think personally it’s a red heering as its fine and then its not.

The way you need to think is ‘what gets effected when its muggy / hot’ And we aren’t talking about the adaptive maps just knocking the fuelling back and retarding cams because the car might be running lean here.

The problems are so subtle I have just learnt to live with them for now. I will get around to fixing them after the e30 is complete (hopefully in the next 6-8 weeks :) )

There are lots of write ups on e46 fanatics about these sorts of problems. Lots of speculation like taking it to the dealer and getting updates done. This doesn’t work as I had it done ... no change.

We can form a club ... the e46, no error code but I know something is wrong .. but only sometimes ... just enough to annoy me .. but not enough to sell the car club.

:)

Oh .. I have replaced my DISA valve too, but that was to fix a worn problem ...

here are some vids I did on it.

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Have heard bit about this issue, seems to be worse on 330i than M52TU. It is known as the BMW hole, usually occurs at around 3.500 to 4000rpm and is more noticeable on autos between gear changes and in hot climates. BMW USA says it is caused by the disa valve changing runner length in manifold at this rpm and load. Attached is my dyno run at Gavins prior to remap. The drop in power is clear to see as valve opens. Remapping my ECU has eliminated this power drop with the power line running flat. Have read similar cases in US where remapping [Dinan]

claim to remove power hole.

post-2455-1265224446.jpg

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