E30 Mtech 1 323 Birthday.

[Jacko 2156]

Is anyone able to hook me up with a copy of the WDM/ETM for a 1985 323? I can find jack online, or on ebay. None of the M50 to E30 wiring diagrams ive found match up with my car.

Email a PDF, or if can borrow a hardcopy to photocopy the bits I want, Ill buy beer!

Seems like BMW liked to change the E30's wiring every year just for the fun of it.

^ Ian Haynes is the MAN! Ill post up the wiring for my year 323 to M50 once confirmed, as it is nowhere online.

This is my C101 - Fuse box side, different pins and wiring colours to all the E30 m50 swap diagrams. I think ill need to add some wires

1/85 323i, factory manual with no powersteering/aircon/other girly rubbish.

C101

1 - Blue (2)

2 - Blue/yellow

3 - Empty

4 - Brown/purple

5 - Empty

6 - Green/Yellow

7 - Purple/Red

8 - Black/Yellow (2)

9 - Empty

10 - Green

11 - Empty

12 - Empty

13 - Empty

14 - Empty

15 - Purple/Green

16 - Black/Brown

17 - White/Blue

18 - Empty

19 - Empty

And this is what they do -

Im on the hunt for a renault clio brake booster, if anyone has used one with an M50 swap can you post a pic the unit you used, there seems to be quite a difference even in the same model years. Aparently the plastic winged servo is what im after, but I can only find steel, normal looking, boosters locally.

Edited August 16, 2010 by Jacko

[oscar90 0]

can use E32 and MKI VW gti boosters aswell i believe? i have both in the garage so hopefully one works haha

[Forrest 35]

And Audi A4

[Jacko 2156]

All the VW ones ive come across look pretty toasted, Mk1 golfs are getting real old in the tooth.

Porsche 944 is aparently an option too, its probably a golf one!

From all the forum whoring ive done it sounds like the Clio servo has a better feel than the golf one, and is 20 years newer!

Audi A4 is a new one, any more details??, that could be much easier too find.

There must be a japanese booster that fits, but it could be a friggin long process trying to find one.

[Jacko 2156]

Played with the loom yesterday, and how its gonna be routed, Battery is now going in the boot, DME is going in a nice little box where the battery sits

Spent a couple of hours cleaning up the intake manifold. Endless rubbish came outta there, gunk, spiders, unknown black gritty stuff! I think a seperate breather can might be in order.

Also had a look at how to blank off the throttle body heater and its plumbing, still undecided about how to do it in a non gash way. Anyone got any ideas?

On another note, can you buy prepacked spraycan touch up paint, and where from? Ive got a few little spots of rust coming through in the engine bay, mostly just where the original paint has been chipped in the past. Ill ripp into that when the engines out, be handy for when all the excess brackets (radiator header tank etc) get attacked with the angle grinder too. Im an aircraft engineer, its a rare happy occasion that one gets too play with angle grinder.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Jacko

[*Glenn* 854]

I have a front to rear battery cable kit if your interested.

[Jacko 2156]

I have a front to rear battery cable kit if your interested.

Sweet, Whats in the kit?

I was just gonna go to a welding shop for the + cable and buy a supercheap battery box.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Jacko

[*Glenn* 854]

Sweet, Whats in the kit?

I was just gonna go to a welding shop for the + cable and buy a supercheap battery box.

I'm pretty sure I have everything... bit busy to check ATM though

[Jacko 2156]

M20 temp sensor rethreaded to M12x1.5, screws into the block instead of the fitting for the throttle body heating lines (which will be removed). M50's sensor outputs go to the ECU, but its resistance isnt compatible with the E30 gauge, so the M20's sensor drives the gauge, and two of the four M50's sensor pins feed the ECU.

Rethreading the sensor (originally M14ish) seemed like a better idea than tapping out the block.

Edited August 24, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2156]

New dash, steering wheel and Sr2's.

Enough money and time wasted on the inside now, time to stick the M50 back together. At least sitting in it doesnt remind me of being inside a dog kennel now

[Jacko 2156]

Got me a 3.64 LSD, sounds like a minter (35,000k on it) and some 17x7.5 Alpinas lined up.

Im on the hunt for the diameters of M325 axles, want to double check that mine arent already M325 ones. Anyone have any advice other than go visit wreckers with a set of verniers? After some with good/newish CV's as I suspect mine are shagged too. If thats the only option anyone know of a wrecker with a set of M325i ones?

Ive got a new centre bearing for the driveshaft, new seals for the gearbox (input,output, selector), new bushes for the shifter, and polyurethane bushes for the whole shibang, some new brake rotors, Still need to find a Z3/shortshifter, keep watching HellBM's trademe auctions

Is there anything I am forgetting driveline wise that is likely focked at 140,000 miles? Wheel bearings seem good, I suspect the previous owner replaced them, is the guibo worth replacing in the name of peace-o-mind? Last I looked it looked fine and dandy.

I have the first 2 weeks of December to near totally pull apart the E30 and then stick it back together again (with a new engine and coilovers), so dont really want to be waiting for a part ive forgotten, which could hold the rebuild up!

Looking forward to driving this thing

[Jacko 2156]

Dont get ya M50 rocker cover acid dipped. Turns out theres quite a bit of magnesium in there....

Now a need a new one

[Jacko 2156]

New wheels

Looks lower with the wider wheel and right offset filling the gaurds better, feels much more planted and grippy around corners too, wider track and better rubber FTW!

Armstrong steering is feeling particularly heavy when parking now. Considering hiring it out as gym equipment

[Andre3000 55]

New dash, steering wheel and Sr2's.

Enough money and time wasted on the inside now, time to stick the M50 back together. At least sitting in it doesnt remind me of being inside a dog kennel now

How did you mount your seats?

[Jacko 2156]

Sliding rails and brackets from NZKW on tardme. Theyre OK, the only thing I could find locally.

Mounts line up with the E30 fine, but the rails dont fit the mounts/seats amazingly. With a bit of force/a round file to slot holes it lines up, but its not 100%. Seats sit a couple of cm too far towards the centre, its not terrible and you do get used to it, just a little annoying.

If I did it again, Id probably get the sliding rails, but fabricate my own mounts to make it all fit a bit better.

Even with the sliding rails your ass is a few cm lower to the floor than stock seats, without the rails you might as well be sitting on the carpet! The mounts themselves are a pretty low profile.

Edited October 2, 2010 by Jacko

[Lucan 196]

New wheels looks goood

[Andre3000 55]

Sliding rails and brackets from NZKW on tardme. Theyre OK, the only thing I could find locally.

Mounts line up with the E30 fine, but the rails dont fit the mounts/seats amazingly. With a bit of force/a round file to slot holes it lines up, but its not 100%. Seats sit a couple of cm too far towards the centre, its not terrible and you do get used to it, just a little annoying.

If I did it again, Id probably get the sliding rails, but fabricate my own mounts to make it all fit a bit better.

Even with the sliding rails your ass is a few cm lower to the floor than stock seats, without the rails you might as well be sitting on the carpet! The mounts themselves are a pretty low profile.

Ahh ok that gives me a better understanding. Sounds like a good idea for the custom seat mounts as id rather get it done right the first time. Would i be able to have a look at your car? Im very keen to see some of the work thats gone into it. I'll pm you regarding the latter.

Cheers

[Jacko 2156]

No worries, not much work has gone into it yet. Its a standard, dirty old abused, 323 coupe with seats and wheels!

I am building an E21/28/30/36/34 325/328/535/M3 in new/used parts on a shelf in mates workshop however. All the serious progress will be in the first two weeks of december

Your welcome to come check it out though, ill throw you a pm.

Just went and picked up my LSD, after mainfreight lost it... its a minter, stoked as.

Anyone here done this? http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performan.../Diff_cover.htm

Im tempted.

Edited October 8, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2156]

New question of the day.

As my car has no AC, it also has no AUX fan relays/wiring.

I have got dual temp switches for driving the radiator fan, but now got me some more questions.

Option 1 -

Do I go for an E36 Aux dual speed fan, and wire it up to a couple of relays? is this fan up to the job as AFAIK its only designed to cool an E36 when the clutch fan cant keep up.

Option 2 -

Go for an aftermarket single speed fan (with probably a higher CFM rating than E36 stock) and some sorta resistor setup to give me dual speeds?

Option 3 -

Screw the dual speeds, full nanas at lower temp setting?

Option 4 -

Two smaller fans may fit, could wire it up too run one at first temp switch, and two at second temp switch.

Edited October 8, 2010 by Jacko

[Jacko 2156]

Thinking option 2 is the go,

Tardme 16" fan single speed fan, with a .25R Resistor 80W resistor, should, according V=I/R give me around 25-30% less rpm on low speed. Something like this http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/coolingfandiagrams.pdf with the resistor jammed in the "blue" line (last diagram)

THIS is the wiring chart for an 85 323i to 91 E34 M50B25. Ian Haynes did all the hard work

He also managed to answer some questions of mine, couldnt find the answers online so Ill stick em here too.

Question number 1 -

Does engine check light output M50B25 E34 3.1 DME (Pin 8) simply provide a ground to the bulb?

My car has no ECL, but id like to install something to read the codes, and to tell me if all is well!

Im thinking I could simply install a bulb/LED, wire some juice to one side of it and run an extra wire to the C101/M50 loom

Is it that simple, or is there some electrickery in the output from the DME?

Correct, the DME simply provides a ground when it wants to illuminate the lamp.

Question number 2 -

Ive read conflicting storys about M50B25 auto DME's in manual cars.

Do I need to ground pin 65 on the the DME to tell it its in park/neutral? Or will it start and run fine without it ground?

You would never want to ground DME pin 65. This pin is connected to 12v when the auto trans selector is in park & neutral, but effectively not connected to anything when in any of the drive gears. Just leave it disconnected when you convert to manual.

Question number 3 -

Am I right in assuming that road speed, RPM, fuel consumption run through the X20 on an M50'd E36/34 to the instrument cluster, but on an E30 run directly from the M20 DME to the instrument cluster? (I recall seeing the wiring for this under my dash, but am not 100%).

On early cars (like yours), the Tacho and fuel rate signal don't go via the C101. They go via the C104 connector (3 pin connector) under the dash. Later E30's do run these signals through the C101. You can either hook into these wires close the DME under the dash (once fitted), or extend the wires from the C104 connector to the body side of the C101 and pick them up from the E34 C101 connector. I don't think the early E30's had the road speed signal going to the ECU, so you'll need to get this from the back of the cluster, or the OBC/Cruise control (if fitted).

[Jacko 2156]

Screw the power resistor, just found this -

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID...mp;form=KEYWORD

[polley 916]

Would 20 amps(with extra mosfet) be enough current to run a fan? My fan will blow a 30 amp fuse.

[Jacko 2156]

Starting current may blow it maybe, running it shouldnt (most 16" to draw around 10-13A) . I wonder if the softstart will be enough to tame it...

Edited October 18, 2010 by Jacko

[5amchris 45]

didnt the guy doing the 2002 build use this? [sorry forgot your name =D] and he ended up ripping it up.

[Jacko 2156]

Got a link? Had a search and all I could find was a jaycar ignition on a 2002.