air intake mods/kits?

[master garion 1]

Hey ppl, what sort of mods do you have for air intake? Any reasonably priced kits I can buy?

Not really wanting to spend big bucks on afe, dinan, k&n etc. Found some brandless alum/chrome pipes with pod filters for cheap but are those any good?

Edited September 2, 2010 by master garion

[antil33t 90]

For what car?

any air intake that's unsheilded (pod in engine bay) is not really going to improve anything.

Better off buying a K/N (maybe simota) tray filter and slotting that in the factory airbox.

[master garion 1]

For what car?

any air intake that's unsheilded (pod in engine bay) is not really going to improve anything.

Better off buying a K/N (maybe simota) tray filter and slotting that in the factory airbox.

for E36 323i

[pureboiracer 0]

For what car?

any air intake that's unsheilded (pod in engine bay) is not really going to improve anything.

Better off buying a K/N (maybe simota) tray filter and slotting that in the factory airbox.

this....

[master garion 1]

this....

will it make a noticeable difference?

[pureboiracer 0]

if you get a good panel filter ie a kandn then yeah it will, slightly diff sound mabye but you should notice a few more ponys.

[[email protected] 0]

Hey ppl, what sort of mods do you have for air intake? Any reasonably priced kits I can buy?

Not really wanting to spend big bucks on afe, dinan, k&n etc. Found some brandless alum/chrome pipes with pod filters for cheap but are those any good?

Brandless junk = more dirt in your engine.

Pod filter = more heated air in your engine, less performance.

[master garion 1]

Brandless junk = more dirt in your engine.

Pod filter = more heated air in your engine, less performance.

the pipe's brandless but I can always use a K&N pod filter on the end.

looks like the stock intake draws air from the pocket near the front of the engine bay......if the aftermarket pipe is long enough to end up in that area, it should suck the same temp air as the stock intake, right?

[*Glenn* 855]

I honestly wouldn't bother, unless you use something like this :

[master garion 1]

I honestly wouldn't bother, unless you use something like this :

that looks nice...pretty expensive?

[bravo 35]

If the only performance modification you are doing is the air filter, you won't "notice" any gains. With a properly shielded, well-known pod filter, you might get 3-5hp gain, max on your engine. You would get almost as much gain from a reputale branded panel filter in the stock location.

The main thing you will notice is greater (better?) induction noise.

I personally think the K&N panel filters are a great upgrade as over time (by cleaning them rather than replacing) they save you money. I have a near-new e30 k&n panel filter for sale if any one is interested. $50.

A quality panel filter will set you back over $100. The k&n ones for e30 are about $130 from memory.

Unless you can fabricate a decent Cold Air Intake, or buy one, don't bother with a pod filter, the extra heat will give you less performance.

Basically I'm just repeating what has been said above.

[pjay 8]

K& N sounds and looks cool:

[master garion 1]

K& N sounds and looks cool:

is that the Gen2 kit? where did you get it from and how much?

[sweetm3 180]

Jeff are any good at DYI, where abouts are you in Auckland ? PM me if your interested

This was my first attempt at Cold air box for my E36 M3 should work, you will require a adaptor for the pod filter as the big hole will be too big.

I only set this one aside and made another because I stuffed the paint job which it was wet so you have to do a bit of sanding as well.

As the other guys have said performance gains who knows, induction noise “great†I have cold air directed in from my brake duct and from the standard inlet beside the radiator. With my/this setup the temperature in the CAB are the same a the outside temp when you’re moving, sitting in traffic it warms up in there. You do have to have a decedent pod. See final note below

By the way I do have a liking for JD's

[hybrid 1044]

The biggest thing with a pod filter is creating physical separation from the warm air in the engine bay to cool air from outside.

The OEM boxes aren't all that bad, you can actually use an aftermarket panel filter with no oil (again over time clogs the MAF sensor).

Ducting cool air or forcing air in is a big no no if your running a MAF as it confuses the sensor. To benefit from ram air you need to be running MAP and a tune in the simlulated environment (adding more fueling)

Best is what PJay posted as it provides the best physical separation between the engine bay and the outside air behind the head light.

Ollie and myself have been designing myone for the s50b32/e30 .. will get around to finishing it soon and post results.

[thorburn 121]

Ducting cool air or forcing air in is a big no no if your running a MAF as it confuses the sensor. To benefit from ram air you need to be running MAP and a tune in the simlulated environment (adding more fueling)

Why do you say it will confuse the MAF?

The only way I can see it being a problem is if the air duct in changes the intake pressure. This would only occur at high speeds, this giving the intake more air than the engine is pumping.

Is this really something to be concerned about?

[No name user 379]

pod filters are not good for induction just convenient, a well designed air box using a panel filter wins hands down and theres a good reason why they spend so much on a race car induction system and you wont see to many pods being used.

[hybrid 1044]

The above comment about the air flow sensor is incorrect it is an air mass sensor so it will read and calculate for changes in air density (mass) the IAT intake temp sensor accounts for any cooling benefit you get from your system

UNLESS you are blowing it and working at pressures more that the usual barometric range the system is designed for, given that tehse cars will run below zero and at sea level or 3,000 metres , the miniscule pressure incerase you get from "ram air" about 0,05 Bar in practice I suspect you will not need to change a MAP system - these are more for turbo's or blown cars where manifold pressure is and 1.5 to 2 bar

cool bro .. try it and see what happens at high speed when the air is being rammed on a stock map

[sweetm3 180]

cool bro .. try it and see what happens at high speed when the air is being rammed on a stock map

This does interest me, what should I be looking for in the way of problems ?

As I have been on Pukekohe a number of times hitting speeds of 200-220 down the back straight not sure about the front straight as I’m too scared to look down at my speedo.

At Hampton Downs I can only get up to 185-190.

Or should I say what have I missed or have I just been lucky.

[thorburn 121]

Hybrid are you saying at high speed in open loop you will run lean (with a big enough duct on an untouched ecu)? Or is it because of the turbulent air that the duct could create?

or am I missing something else?

[hybrid 1044]

Yeah, if you create enough air pressure Not only that but create turbulant air.

I have done it before and it had performance decrease at high speed. when I went back to stock it returned top end performance.

Makes a cool noise though .. but thats about it.

[thorburn 121]

With an adequate tune and something to reduce the turbulant air, you will make more power.

But you aren't going to make much power over the factory air box. Because of this it isn't hard to make a system that is worse than standard.

[jom 98]

For an E36 323i forget the inlet filter, go for the M50 manifold conversion. Lots of posts on it, either use the multi hose clip version (cheap), or go for the Turner Motorsports conversion.

That is if you want more power rather than more noise.....

Jo

[hybrid 1044]

... and dyno graphs that prove it . essently you need to rev your car about 10% harder to get the same power ...

sorry man, im really having trouble with this part.

when on a dyno, aren't you flooring it when doing a run ?

[Silver Fox 43]

sorry man, im really having trouble with this part.

when on a dyno, aren't you flooring it when doing a run ?

You might end up there, but most of the information is what you see thru the run, from the start right thru to the final figure.

ie. The M54B30 we just did shows little power and torque up to 4500 rpm, then it lights up and shows real power and torque from there to 6000rmp where it dies rather quickly. This is the result of me taking the vanos off and fitting M50 intake, combined with the M54 steel exhaust, The combination I have arrived at will suit the race application, but will be a bit of a slouch on the road, not that it is of any concern.

As an aside, the engine now produces more rwhp and torque than the factory one, even tho we haven't done any other enhancements.