e30 m52 build

[slowe30 0]

got the engine in the hole, few more things to be done before i can start it up, but ive hit one major problem.

the manifolds have been modifyed to fit the engine into an e30 so they a slight bend to get around the steering rack, because i have swapped to an e36 steering rack my manifold now hits and i cant turn the wheels AT ALL

so now i have to get someone to move the bend in the manifold along about 10cm, with out disturbing anything else in the system. any one know a GOOD exhaust shop on the north shore. thankfully that was the only problem worth mentioning

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

you might want to get another set of stock E36 manifolds and get them rebent from that, rather than bent twice? im not sure on how tough the metal is etc. im sure there is an expert on this though

[slowe30 0]

ok havnt posted for a while, i ended up taking the manifolds down to pitstop on wairau road, he cut a peice out and put in a new peice with the right bends. didnt charge much for it, i put that all in, got an adapter made for the power steering pipes and made a home-made power steer resiour relocation setup. took it for a wheel alignment and then the issues started. alternator wasnt charging enough so it would keep the engine running but thats about it, not evan enough juice to wipe the windows. spent a while diagnosing it and eventually went to ray at hellbm (4 in the afternoon on a saturday and he supplied me with it, such an awesome guy!!!!) installed it started it up and had 14v at the battery also rewired the adapter for the harness as some of the pins wernt in the right place and the car was doing funny things. took it for a test drive and its amazing. think im going to get pinged when getting a cert for the exhaust being to loud but it sound so nice.

all in all i love it and want more, now time for a drive...

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

they are very fun arent they! and so addictive! the alternator problem was a contirbuting factor to why mine was parted out, amoung other things unrelated to the conversoin like rust.

may have issue with the exhaust, thats why i have made the middle part with the resonators detachable, so that you can put a muffler in its place and quieten it down for cert. make sure they use Ford falcon connectors at each end of the pipe.

what did you do for the temperature?

[slowe30 0]

why ford falcon connections? just curious

and what do you mean by the temperature? ive got the factory electric fan being turned on and off by a switch inside the car as a temporary thing untill i get the propper thermostat controlled setup working. ive got the m40 radiator (that doesnt leak!!! first one ive ever seen that doesnt) and the little temperature sender is still unconnected, need to find one of those adapters to put itin one of the pipes or hook it up to the factory system somehow.

the car is defintly a work in progress and among other things the noisy vanos unit will be attended to asap, its anoying the crap out of me and doesnt sound good at all.

also something weird that has only started happening since the conversion, my windows and heater fan (and most likly other stuff aswell) work when they want to, but windows always work when the doors are opened so it may be yet another wiring issue

EDIT and i totally agree with the addictive part, its amazing to drive cant wait till i get my suspension setup and brakes then cert it so im not scared of being pink stickered for it.

Edited October 15, 2011 by SlowE30

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

why ford falcon connections? just curious

and what do you mean by the temperature? ive got the factory electric fan being turned on and off by a switch inside the car as a temporary thing untill i get the propper thermostat controlled setup working. ive got the m40 radiator (that doesnt leak!!! first one ive ever seen that doesnt) and the little temperature sender is still unconnected, need to find one of those adapters to put itin one of the pipes or hook it up to the factory system somehow.

the car is defintly a work in progress and among other things the noisy vanos unit will be attended to asap, its anoying the crap out of me and doesnt sound good at all.

also something weird that has only started happening since the conversion, my windows and heater fan (and most likly other stuff aswell) work when they want to, but windows always work when the doors are opened so it may be yet another wiring issue

EDIT and i totally agree with the addictive part, its amazing to drive cant wait till i get my suspension setup and brakes then cert it so im not scared of being pink stickered for it.

because thats what pitstop down here used when they had it fabricated. the connections between the different parts of the exhaust are all ford falcon. they arent second hand they are new though. i guess theres no need to use OEM bmw connectors when its all custom anyway.

yeah mean so you can keep an eye on the temp. dont thrash the engine too much as its been sitting here for a few months, but should be good to go soon! the radiator wont leak, i brought it new for the conversion

[hybrid 1044]

I actually cant believe some of the posts on here ... not being a d*ck, but how do some of you guys get away with doing your swaps without blowing anything up ?

Vanos isnt like honda's crude v-tec system. Its variable and relies on the ECU to adjust. The soliniods are linear stepper motors which respond to a PWM signal (digital) supplying 12volts wont work.

If your interested in controlling vanos without a vanos ECU you need to build yourself a contorller which can take a digital PWM signal from RPM and/or crank position sensor and generate a reciprocal PWM signal to control the soliniod and run this from a stored map. Quite easy to do and there are kits from Silicon Chip that make this possible with even hand controllers to let you know what youre doing.

Your other option is to lock off vanos all together with a kit say from vac motorsport and run race cams with a single profile (if you want it to go fast)

I still think its easy to just get the BMW ECU that was meant for the engine else your killing all the reasons you got a m52 engine in the first place.

Obtaining a linkg4 as it has the ability to do this as well.

[polley 916]

I was under the understanding that early vanos was either on or off and later double vanos was variable.

Edited October 15, 2011 by polley

[polley 916]

I actually cant believe some of the posts on here ... not being a d*ck, but how do some of you guys get away with doing your swaps without blowing anything up ?

Vanos isnt like honda's crude v-tec system. Its variable and relies on the ECU to adjust. The soliniods are linear stepper motors which respond to a PWM signal (digital) supplying 12volts wont work.

If your interested in controlling vanos without a vanos ECU you need to build yourself a contorller which can take a digital PWM signal from RPM and/or crank position sensor and generate a reciprocal PWM signal to control the soliniod and run this from a stored map. Quite easy to do and there are kits from Silicon Chip that make this possible with even hand controllers to let you know what youre doing.

Your other option is to lock off vanos all together with a kit say from vac motorsport and run race cams with a single profile (if you want it to go fast)

I still think its easy to just get the BMW ECU that was meant for the engine else your killing all the reasons you got a m52 engine in the first place.

Obtaining a linkg4 as it has the ability to do this as well.

Oh here we go, read page 5 and aware your self.

http://www.e38.org/m62tu.pdf

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

actually, on his setup, vanos is installed but does not function. its flashed out of the ECU.

[hybrid 1044]

Oh here we go, read page 5 and aware your self.

http://www.e38.org/m62tu.pdf

Cool story bro.

Read that doc 5 years ago .... may i suggest you have a look at page 9 then go read up on PWM. there is a lot of literature around.

In other news... you can pick up the translated cam position signal from the ecu which will help you translate actual and target values

[thorburn 121]

I'm going to agree with polly on this. The vanos on m50tu and m52 engines is not variable. It is either on or off. Just as crude(if not more) as v-tec in my opinion.

The m52tu, m54 and m62tu is different and is variable. It has oil pushing on either side and is controlled by pwm. I cant see why you'd use pwm and a stepper motor

I do think putting vanos on a switch is a dumb idea though.

If i'm wrong i'm going to have to re-wire my link

Edited October 16, 2011 by bbs

[polley 916]

Cool story bro.

Read that doc 5 years ago .... may i suggest you have a look at page 9 then go read up on PWM. there is a lot of literature around.

In other news... you can pick up the translated cam position signal from the ecu which will help you translate actual and target values

I know what PWM is having used it my self you chode. Page 9 is explaining the M62TU vanos which is variable and uses PWM and is not relevant to the M52.

Anywhere you read will tell you that M52 vanos is simply on or off. Feel free to go stick a o-scope on a M52 and prove me and everyone else wrong though.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

Carefull Polley. you are right to my knowledge too, but dont get personal like your first sentence (not quoted) or you may be banned. Josh does know a lot like a lot of people on thie forum, but noone knows everything.

/thread save

[hybrid 1044]

Actually my mistake .. i thought you were talking about a tu motor. as you were

And no need to get personal... respect level just goes out the window with sort of behavior. I know youre new to this forum and really on a secone chance but we all try to get along here without the childish insults

[slowe30 0]

wow this thread just got messy, any chance it can be cleaned up a little by someone with the power to do so.

and with the vanos controlled by a switch idea i was only asking about that as it isnt used at all on my engine and i wanted to make use of it. but now that i know the vanos system is as noisey as it is, can anyone link me to a decent write up on how to remove vanos and fit m50 cams, i think thats what people use, correct me if im wrong. i do want some lumpy race cams but atm i cant afford to do so only being an apprentice so stock m50 ones will do me fine (also i belive thats what the computer im using was origonally tuned for)

now couple of other points, anyone done an e36 rack conversion and an M/S5x conversion. how did you have the spacers on the rack? mine are all below at the moment but it looks like the rack it hitting the sump.

and how do you install a rear sway bar? do i really have to remove my diff (which i installed less than a week ago) or are you able to fit it up there some other way? its only a factory 325i one so didnt think it would be to hard.

installed a z3 short shifter, feals so great when changing gears!

has anyone used a factory electric fan (e34 one in my case as its bigger) wired up through the thermostat in the radiator? think my thermostat may have failed as it isnt turning it on

and got a whiteline front swaybar to fit at some stage soon, any tricks to fitting that. yet again thanks ray at hellbm, awesome person to deal with

[hybrid 1044]

now couple of other points, anyone done an e36 rack conversion and an M/S5x conversion. how did you have the spacers on the rack? mine are all below at the moment but it looks like the rack it hitting the sump.iteline front swaybar to fit at some stage soon, any tricks to fitting that. yet again thanks ray at hellbm, awesome person to deal with

Not an e36 but have done mine with the low ratio 2.7 z3 rack... spacing you can use shims and nutsas spacers

Swaybars are interesting... i went for Ireland engineering adjustable bars which worked perfectly with the control arms / s50 headers / exhaust etc stock ones where a major and required new bushes to be made with custom shackles etc

[flake 0]

maybe helpful to you

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=21448&hl=

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

(also i belive thats what the computer im using was origonally tuned for)

and how do you install a rear sway bar? do i really have to remove my diff (which i installed less than a week ago) or are you able to fit it up there some other way? its only a factory 325i one so didnt think it would be to hard.

and got a whiteline front swaybar to fit at some stage soon, any tricks to fitting that. yet again thanks ray at hellbm, awesome person to deal with

correct, but the difference is pretty minimal. its only rotational mass your loosing and prehaps a minor increase in engine strength by taking it out though.

you dont need to remove diff. i took both rear wheels off my car, and the right side suspension was out and i managed to shimmy it in.

should have done that when the engine was out, shouldnt be too hard though

[slowe30 0]

Not an e36 but have done mine with the low ratio 2.7 z3 rack... spacing you can use shims and nutsas spacers

ive already got mine in and spaced, but ive put all the spacers at the bottom as i thought i read i was ment to, but now the sump hits the rack. you wouldnt know how much spacing you have either side of yours do you? just so i only need to make one more set of them and not a couple of trial and error ones

correct, but the difference is pretty minimal. its only rotational mass your loosing and prehaps a minor increase in engine strength by taking it out though.

you dont need to remove diff. i took both rear wheels off my car, and the right side suspension was out and i managed to shimmy it in.

should have done that when the engine was out, shouldnt be too hard though

with the vanos the way it is now i thought it would be in the state best suited for low rev power and torque and it cant change from that, if i got the m50 cams then they would be a set made to be used through out the whole rev range, i can slightly feal it loose its power at high revs so it would be nice to get rid of that.

im not sure what would be easier with the rear sway bar, i could use the hoist and tools at work to remove the diff easily(i would only drop it down enough to get the bar through anyway), or wheels off and possibly the suspension on one side.

and with the front bar, i only got them today and the engine was in around 2 weeks ago. ill figure something out. its the big 24mm one so its gonna be fun fitting it, but then i hope ill be able to turn corners like i used to, i can really feal the extra weight at the front of the car

[APT 195]

you dont need to drop the diff to get the rear bar in, what sort of front swaybar are you using (brand) ? as 24mm is quite big.

[hybrid 1044]

ive already got mine in and spaced, but ive put all the spacers at the bottom as i thought i read i was ment to, but now the sump hits the rack. you wouldnt know how much spacing you have either side of yours do you? just so i only need to make one more set of them and not a couple of trial and error ones

I changed mine since the photos in my build thread... Im in wellington for a few days away from the car but will get underneath and photo it if you like ? It was a fine art (mm's) of allowing room for the sump and clearing the headers (even with fabricating the number 6) My biggest thing was allowing the sump and engine to settle on the engine mounts ...

and with the front bar, i only got them today and the engine was in around 2 weeks ago. ill figure something out. its the big 24mm one so its gonna be fun fitting it, but then i hope ill be able to turn corners like i used to, i can really feal the extra weight at the front of the car

yeah sounds the same as mine ... your biggest thing is centering it between a uncompressed control arm and your exhuast .. trail and error and shimming of your bush brackets and maybe slightly longer bolts ?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

i

with the vanos the way it is now i thought it would be in the state best suited for low rev power and torque and it cant change from that, if i got the m50 cams then they would be a set made to be used through out the whole rev range, i can slightly feal it loose its power at high revs so it would be nice to get rid of that.

im not sure what would be easier with the rear sway bar, i could use the hoist and tools at work to remove the diff easily(i would only drop it down enough to get the bar through anyway), or wheels off and possibly the suspension on one side.

and with the front bar, i only got them today and the engine was in around 2 weeks ago. ill figure something out. its the big 24mm one so its gonna be fun fitting it, but then i hope ill be able to turn corners like i used to, i can really feal the extra weight at the front of the car

possibly. i wanted low down torque as the car was a daily and thats why i left it. thats also why the original plan for me was to keep OBD2 (not sure if you were on this forum back then)

shouldnt need to drop the diff. its a pain in the ass to drop it, and it doesnt just swing down easily, it may put too much tension on the subframe mounts, if they even allow you to twist it down.

yes you will do coming from an M40. its marginal over the M20 engine.

[slowe30 0]

yea photos would be good thanks

thanks for the tip on the shimming, ill have to get under the car at somepoint and check out what obsticles there will be. want to get my fan sorted first as i find i sometimes forget to switch it on, and not having a temp guage is hard to deal with

and andrew, ive got a whiteline front one, and factory rear.

and im so proud of it now, i converted a skyline owner to wanting one now, he had a rb25det and now wants me to build him up a beamer

[slowe30 0]

ok so found out why the fan setup hasnt been working, also found out why my windows, interior fan and some of the stuff on the dash stopped working, asked dad to have a looksy at the wiring (hes an ex aircraft electrician so thats his side of things to work on) and he found someone had swapped the fuse location for the fan and there wasnt one where it needed it, so we swapped that back to standard. he also found out there was a faulty grounding, so he made another one up and that fixed all the interior things aswell as my tacho which i thought was another e30 cluster failing. going to test out my fan tomorrow night as we ran out of time tonight, so still running on my manual switch for now. want to make sure the sensors are working as they are ment to before i go and blow a head gasket because one isnt working.