E28 535i Project

[_Matt_ 42]

My 528i

My donor 3.4L 525IE




obviously I've nicked the front spoiler already, now its the engines turn...









Now for the time consuming task of cleaning EVERYTHING! Buying new parts and repainting.

Edited December 21, 2013 by _Mark_

[crazyarab 6]

Awesome effort man, will be watching this thread closely

[_Matt_ 42]

Update,

Step 2

Transport engine to my garage and leave big annoying car with no engine in brothers garage.

Step 3

Pull to bits for preparation to clean the engine block.

As I pulled everything off I can see I'm going to have to keep a list of things I want to replace. Not sure how this engine got so aesthetically destroyed.

(any advice on anything, maybe do and don'ts during this whole clean up would be more than appreciated)

Edited July 6, 2013 by _Matt_

[BM WORLD 1283]

maybe change sump and rocker cover gasgets ,inlet and exhaust gasgets etc , new water pump and thermostat

replace head gasget (as they tend corrode and let go after about 20years or 200,000km etc) and do a 282 schrick camshaft while you have the head off:)

have you checked the camshaft for wear?? and the oil spray rail banjo bolts??(they come loose and starve the camshaft of oil)

[Michael. 2313]

Fantastic!

[_Matt_ 42]

maybe change sump and rocker cover gasgets ,inlet and exhaust gasgets etc , new water pump and thermostat

replace head gasget (as they tend corrode and let go after about 20years or 200,000km etc) and do a 282 schrick camshaft while you have the head off:)

have you checked the camshaft for wear?? and the oil spray rail banjo bolts??(they come loose and starve the camshaft of oil)

Was going to do all of the above except the 282 schrick

I am a little unsure of what exactly to check for when the head is off. All I know is that there shouldn't be gouges in the block, the cam nodes should be smooth...any suggestions on cleaning the inside the head with out moving the valves etc? lots of gunk in there.

[tony2657 5]

Nice one Matt. Good luck.

BTW are those my tools?

[_Matt_ 42]

Nice one Matt. Good luck.

BTW are those my tools?

Nope, If I have your tools they will be listed on your whiteboard. as requested old man.

[_Matt_ 42]

Removed the head, looks better than I expected. No bad corrosion, no gouges on the cylinders. Gasket was letting oil into the head bolts and the 1st cylinder has been in contact with the valve.

All cylinders looks similar to this

This comes in contact with the piston, how do I fix that?

plenty of cleaning ahead of me.

any DIY ideas to remove the vibration damper off the crank shaft?

[Creaver 55]

Good stuff.

Suggestion #1 put engine back together and take off by jamming in gear with handbrake on

Suggestion #2 try jam it up the best you can and get a mate to use a long lever to try and turn it

Suggestion #3 air tools and jamming it up?

Edited October 12, 2011 by Ian 540i6

[_Matt_ 42]

I Think I'm going to need to made a make shift tool to bolt to the damper and then use a big pipe on my torque wrench.

Id like to take it to DCH all cleaned up so they just have to adjust the valves etc. so I want to clean the and paint the timing case.

[polley 916]

The vibration dampner comes off with the smaller bolts...

If you want to remove the big crank bolt to remove the timing cover, you could jam the crank with a piece of wood between the crank and crank case.

[BM WORLD 1283]

why have the valves been touching , check for camshaft wear and also cam chain stretch and spocket wear etc.

take the block down to a engine rebuilder they can remove the big nut pretty easy i am sure they wont charge much.

good to see you are doing it all properly.

are you going to do any mods etc??

fit larger e34 intake valves , e34 intake manifold??

deck the block , skim the head , valve grind ,

check the and valve steam seals and valve steams for wear.

have new parts/gaskets if needed

[_Matt_ 42]

I was planning on cleaning up the head, checking stems, new valve seals, lapping. No mods planned. Want to keep the budget down. I was thinking of getting new fuel injectors but they are pretty pricey.

[BM WORLD 1283]

I was planning on cleaning up the head, checking stems, new valve seals, lapping. No mods planned. Want to keep the budget down. I was thinking of getting new fuel injectors but they are pretty pricey.

injectors are pretty reliable on these , maybe just get them checked for flow rate and flow patten etc

i just had my old m5 ones cleaned and tested etc just to make them near perfect

, even the 250,000km and 26years old they still where at 95% etc

[*Glenn* 854]

why have the valves been touching , check for camshaft wear and also cam chain stretch and spocket wear etc.

If the engine was running before stripping... I would asume it's been pulled apart in the wrong sequence by a person with limited knowledge to carry out this type of work... no offence intended... you don't learn these things in 5 minutes...especially if you do it for the first time without a knowlegeable person helping you. I agree with checking the above ^^^ but it won't cause a valve to touch a piston unless there is something more seriously wrong... and it wouldn't effect one valve... it would effect at least 3, 4 6 or 12 if the engine was running.

Edited October 15, 2011 by *Glenn*

[_Matt_ 42]

It was running yes, the particular valve that has touched the piston has a lot more carbon etc on it that the others and the mark on the piston has old oil/carbon remanence over it as well so I don't believe its a recent occurrence. Ill make sure I don't make the same mistake as the previous owners as I am pretty sure they were a DIYers as well.

note the sweet rocker cover haha.

[_Matt_ 42]

Photo Update.

Looking at the Cam...not to sure on the quality...

The worst looking rocker I pulled out, Don't think it should look like that...

Super organised.

popped down to the shops

My box of completed stuff haha

[BM WORLD 1283]

i would replace that cam or get it rebuilt.

also get some new rockers or get them resurfaced.

i have some good cams availible.

and also have some spare rockers to

Edited October 16, 2011 by Brent HARTGE535i

[_Matt_ 42]

I have another head spare with news paper in the manifold holes dating back to january 2001 so the cam and rockers in that might be better Ill PM you for a price if I need a cam. Cheers.

[_Matt_ 42]

any ideas on compressing the valve springs? those claw style ones pictured are useless. The C type compressors look like they would be just as awkward but I could be wrong.

[Jono51 59]

any ideas on compressing the valve springs? those claw style ones pictured are useless. The C type compressors look like they would be just as awkward but I could be wrong.

I think that the problem is that there is so many cheaper variants around, made of poor quality

you can get the cam regrind done, kelford cams

maybe even get it's profiles changed or buy new ( 288)

use only new rockers

edit;

check the rocker shafts for wear and also check your guides too

Edited October 21, 2011 by Jono51

[_Matt_ 42]

I want to apply heat proof paint to the block and rocker cover but it wont adhere to aluminum on it's own, I would use etch primer but that wont be heat proof. Any suggestions?

[Nobimmer 694]

The etch primer will be fine.

[_Matt_ 42]

rightio, cheers.