BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 Started off with some treatment of the interior. The front seats were showing some serious signs of neglect. Here is a before and after pic of a section of the front seat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 Wow, you wouldn't have wanted to sit on the dirty seat after seeing just how dirty it was! Makes you wonder how dirty the black BMW leather seats are which hide all that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M5V8 337 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 oh man... i thought that was just a shadow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beemn 50 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 oh man... i thought that was just a shadow. So did I till you mentioned it! Ever see that Top Gear episode where they had the 3 E30 cabs and had them "gone over by scientists " who found all sorts of 'Yuk stuff"...this comes to mind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 Started off with some treatment of the interior. What kind of treatment? Looks pretty effective! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted May 19, 2013 Mothers leather cleaner, a soft brush, and a microfibre towel. And a bout 2 hours worth of elbow grease to complete the entire seat. One thing i've learned is that the microfibre towels should be washed prior to using them to wipe away the leather cleaner. The cleaner made all the dye come out, so i was left with a loveley red tinge (colour of towel) on the caramel seat. 2 hours later using the same cleaner, and a white pre-washed microfibre towel, and the seat is looking amazing. Next bit of work is to get the stone.. aka now rust chips around the A pillar and roof repaired. Damn previous owners neglecting stone chips! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted May 20, 2013 dont suppose the acceleration scared the sh*t out of the last driver? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M5V8 337 Report post Posted May 20, 2013 dont suppose the acceleration scared the sh*t out of the last driver?The rest of the interior is actually black Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted May 20, 2013 dont suppose the acceleration scared the sh*t out of the last driver? haha! Will have to get the interior checked for traces of E coli ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted May 20, 2013 So did I till you mentioned it! Ever see that Top Gear episode where they had the 3 E30 cabs and had them "gone over by scientists " who found all sorts of 'Yuk stuff"...this comes to mind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted May 27, 2013 All parts required to replace the thermostat, as well as the valve cover gaskets and seals have arrived. It appears that the o-rings connecting the thermo housing to the water pipes in the valley area can be a royal PITA. Good thing I've got some extra o-rings on order in case I break some during installation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Epic fail on the thermostat change. Have done the procedure 3 times now but cannot get the damn o rings to seal that connect the thermo. Housing to the water pipes, and heat exchanger. Such a pig of a job!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted June 4, 2013 Epic fail on the thermostat change. Have done the procedure 3 times now but cannot get the damn o rings to seal that connect the thermo. Housing to the water pipes, and heat exchanger. Such a pig of a job!!Bugger... After 3 goes I call the pros. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 5, 2013 i always use rubber grease on orings, makes everything slide together. it must be specific rubber grease, vaseline or normal grease will break down the rubber. got some from bnt for like $12 couple of years back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Yeah, i was using vasoline, which is a no no (petrolium jelly) Had I have got the o rings in without pinching or breaking them, leaks would only just be around the corner. I ended up removing the inlet plenum chamber last night so i can get good visibility if the o rings pinch or break when re-inserting the thermo. housing. I've ordered enough o rings to give this another go 3 times over. What a fiddly engine the s62 engine is when it's installed in the car! Out of curiosity, has anyone had their s62 fired up with the plenum removed? so just the throttle bodies exposed. I'm not wanting to re-assemble the plenum on to the motor until i've checked throughly for leaks, and bled the cooling system of leaks. The S62 runs fine with the air intake tubes, and maf cables unplugged, so i'm thinking it should be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Decided to re-seal the valve cover tonight while it's all apart. Here's a few pics of all the chaos. Just to get enough clearance to remove the cover I had to tie up the coil wiring harness, and move the water valve unit up about 30mm. Not a fun job with the engine in the car. Thermostat housing off. Bitch of a job to try and get on right with out seeing if the o -rings pinch. Removing the inlet manifold. 45 + nuts and bolts to remove, plus a few hose clips. Cleaning the Oil residue out, before pic More oil residue and oil to clean off before the cover can go back on Throttle bodies cleaned, and gasket mating surfaces cleaned up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 that looks cool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Most interesting. Is it clean inside from what you can see? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Its not as clean as my 540i was under the rocker cover. Bit of sludge but nothing extreme. The spark plugs were covered in oil though. My guess is that the gasket seals were original. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted June 6, 2013 Its not as clean as my 540i was under the rocker cover. Bit of sludge but nothing extreme. The spark plugs were covered in oil though. My guess is that the gasket seals were original.If you're interested I've got a surplus set of 8 NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX (recommended plug upgrade for E39 540 and M5). Darren (M5V8) put some in his M5 and said they are excellent. These retail for around $25-35 each in NZ you can have them for $175 all up. PM if interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 ^^^ this i changed plugs today on my 540i got ngk bkr6equp. like the bkr6eix but four prong instead of two. either will do it though. and either are recomended. old plugs were good but going 4 prong has made it alot more torquey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
str8_6 275 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 If you're interested I've got a surplus set of 8 NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX (recommended plug upgrade for E39 540 and M5). Darren (M5V8) put some in his M5 and said they are excellent. These retail for around $25-35 each in NZ you can have them for $175 all up. PM if interested. Would be interested to know more. What differences do they make? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 If you're interested I've got a surplus set of 8 NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX (recommended plug upgrade for E39 540 and M5). Darren (M5V8) put some in his M5 and said they are excellent. These retail for around $25-35 each in NZ you can have them for $175 all up. PM if interested. Thanks but i got a full set of the standard issue nkg's for $60 usd when i ordered all my thermostat and valve cover seal parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) Would be interested to know more. What differences do they make?Can't tell you much more really as I haven't used them. Bought them from the UK but had to replace the old plugs before the NGK ones turned up when my new 540i started misfiring (the old plugs were shot). I've got BKR6EQUP which are excellent and the BKR6EIX is the recommended upgrade to those.Try Googling... Seems to be plenty of good feedback about them. Sorry to hijack your thread, Martin. EDIT: US$60 for a full set of plugs is great, does that include shipping!! Where from?! Edited June 7, 2013 by jeffbebe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 8, 2013 iridium is meant to fire a hotter spark as it concentrates the discaharge to a smaller point. this must be made of iridium to stop it melting. hence 100k plugs vs 50k max for copper makes a hotter spark so better burn so better power. having a hotter spark point means its less likely to get carbon biuld up as it can burn through the crap. this gives a more consistant spark load which is also better for the coil packs. much of the pice differenc eis due to the price of platinum or iridium and also the bigger task to build the plug with more heat resistant metals. well worth it in my opinion iridium is worth between $10000 USD and $30000 USD a kilo depending on purity. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
